Thread: New Project
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03-18-2024 07:56 PM #46
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03-18-2024 08:30 PM #47
Subframe looks great, going to be a nice drivetrain!
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04-11-2024 10:28 AM #48
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Very nice work on the Caddy!Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
Tire Sizes
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04-13-2024 08:11 PM #49
Ok guys I'm looking for input on my Panhard Bar setup. I'm mostly concerned with the mount I'm making for the rear attachment. I used 2 x 3 tube with .120 wall thickness. 1 " tube all the way through with a 5/8" bolt in that. I most likely will box in the 2 x 3 with studs sticking out to bolt to the axel. Having never built a car with parallel bars I'm not sure how strong the Panhard bar needs to be ? Thoughts ?
Is this location good in relation to the rear axel/ most I've seen are above the center line of the axel.
This pic is of the mount on the car, not sure what it used for in 1937 but it seems to be right for the bar attachment to the frame.
thanks for your inputs !!Last edited by Navy7797; 04-13-2024 at 08:15 PM.
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04-14-2024 04:26 AM #50
Like you I'd be concerned with the box tubing, that's quite a distance from axle mount to the bar mounting. I like the idea of changing the bolts too, come through the box with bolts and weld the head of the bolt in the box. If needed, you could perhaps add a mount from the box to the axle tube and it would triangulate and spread the loading. Otherwise, I'd add some bends to the long tubing and shorten the axle mount.
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04-14-2024 07:36 AM #51
My panhard bar on on both cars are from Pete & Jakes, mounted from drivers frame to two bolts holding the third member to the differential housing and two bolts holding the pinion shaft to the third member. I think the brackets to hold the heim are 1/4" - they are stout! The longer the bar the less lateral movement you get as the differential travels up & down, but the longer bar has more flex. In an easy swale where you're going straight there's not much force on the panhared bar, but consider a twisty hill country road where you're pushing the suspension to max G forces in a downhill S turn. You're putting the panhard bar in compression, then tension while going through a mid-turn dip that's trying to break the rear loose. Also, consider that as the differential travels up & down it moves fore & aft a bit in the arc of the parallel arms.Your panhard mounts are going to see those forces and have to be strong enough to put that movement into the bar flex, not the mount or the mounting bolt. Both ends of your bar rely only on the mounting bolt through the heim, in flex.
Your mount needs to be close coubled to the axle flange, and I would extend it above the axle tube an inch or so but I'd be very concerned with a single side mount that puts all of the force on the bolt through the heim. It needs to be supported on both sides so the bolt is only in shear. Same on the frame end, you need two plates welded to the frame solid to carry the heim. That existing frame mount won't last 50 miles,IMO. How about using a flat plate on the existingg axle mount, extending up with a second shorter flat plate welded to the tube spaced to fit the heim insert? Att the frame, makje a pair of triangle plates, rounded at the top, welded to the frame rail spaced for the heim insert. That would put your Grade 8 bolts in shear, and would be plenty stout!!
Here's a picture of one of Pete&Jakes panhard bar kits for reference - https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/p...d-stock-width/Last edited by rspears; 04-14-2024 at 09:01 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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04-14-2024 09:48 AM #52
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04-14-2024 11:12 AM #53
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04-14-2024 12:33 PM #54
I'd mount the heim between the shoulders of that mount, or fabricate a new piece to fit using those mounts with Grade 8 bolts, but with the bar running to the passenger frame rail so it doesn't have to cross the third member snout. The problem on the frame end is that your heim needs to swing up and down for suspension travel, not front to back. Fabricate a pair of mounts to weld up towards the top of the frame, inside the C section, or even tabs that weld to the inside at the corner, top and outside surfaces.Last edited by rspears; 04-14-2024 at 12:39 PM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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04-14-2024 03:10 PM #55
rspears Thanks for the input ! I looked at that and when I measured the amount of rear side travel it was 7/16"and with the long bar its 1/8". This is going air ride on all corners with movement of 4" total, that's what I did the measurements from for side movement. Trying to keep bar parallel with the rear at ride height its all a pita.
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04-14-2024 03:50 PM #56
Navy, how about fabricating a new "shock mount" with a ~3/8 flat plate and a 3 sided extension, maybe a chunk of 2"x1/4 wall square tube to put your third member mount higher to clear the snout, and get your panhard bar closer to level at ride height. Mount the frame end at the bottom of the C channel, welding to both bottom and side. You could even add a couple of gussets to the square tube for stiffening, or use heavy wall C channel or rectangular tube. The 2" might have to be 2.5" or 3" to clear the heim insert. Just some quick ideas....Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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04-14-2024 06:07 PM #57
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04-14-2024 06:50 PM #58
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04-15-2024 06:21 PM #59
Last edited by Navy7797; 04-15-2024 at 06:25 PM.
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04-26-2024 07:38 PM #60
Last edited by Navy7797; 04-26-2024 at 07:40 PM.
I do not see any attachments to approve. What is the size of your each file you are attempting to attach? Bill S.
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