Thread: Procomp aluminum heads/ kmj performance heads

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Originally Posted by rspears

Wes,
Not a BBC, but I had my engine done bySehr Performance Machine Engine Rebuilding Specialists and Scott likes the ProComp heads because they have a lot of meat to allow him to bowl port the chambers as he likes to do. However, he buys the bare heads, and then builds them up with quality valves, springs, retainers & rockers as opposed to buying complete units from ProComp. Not sure I would buy complete heads from them.

Why not answer the question Wes asked. The ProComp heads are Chinese imports that are not quality heads. If you are going to spend the money big block heads cost go with the top manufacturers not the bottom of the barrel. With this answer maybe there wouldn't be all this bickering in this thread.

Originally Posted by Cdminter55

Why not answer the question Wes asked. The ProComp heads are Chinese imports that are not quality heads. If you are going to spend the money big block heads cost go with the top manufacturers not the bottom of the barrel. With this answer maybe there wouldn't be all this bickering in this thread.

The bickering in this thread stopped well over four months ago, so the real question to me is,

Why is Cdminter55 dredging up old, out of date threads instead of posting up something of interest?

I'll stand by what I posted originally, the bare ProComp head provides a viable platform for a qualified engine builder/machinist to use to make a competitive set of heads using his knowledge and talent to bowl port the heads, and add quality valves, springs and retainers to build a set of heads. I would not put a complete, outfitted ProComp head against any other complete head and call them anything near equal. That said, a ProComp head, machined and built out with quality components, will be a viable alternative to other choices, IMO.

Now, instead of searching through the old threads and commenting on things that are ancient history (this guy decided to rework his current heads about six months back) maybe start a new thread?? What're you working on?

I finally picked up my .060 over 454 from the machine shop. Thet told me my crank needed to be turned. They had a .040on the main and .020 on the rod freshly turned forged crank for 150 bucks. I fugured that would be better than a cast crank kit for 339. I still havent made a decision on the heads but will most likley go with the stock cast iorn heads. Should I upgrade to 2.19 and 1.88 valves and do bronze guides? I do know I already need 1 exhaust seat put in so I think I should do all of them. I need a set of rods so I can get it balanced, should I just recondition the old rods or get a set of the eagle I beam rods?

Originally Posted by 70chevybb

I finally picked up my .060 over 454 from the machine shop. Thet told me my crank needed to be turned. They had a .040on the main and .020 on the rod freshly turned forged crank for 150 bucks. I fugured that would be better than a cast crank kit for 339. I still havent made a decision on the heads but will most likley go with the stock cast iorn heads. Should I upgrade to 2.19 and 1.88 valves and do bronze guides? I do know I already need 1 exhaust seat put in so I think I should do all of them. I need a set of rods so I can get it balanced, should I just recondition the old rods or get a set of the eagle I beam rods?

for the money you will tie up in this build you could of went 496 .hyper piston speed pro used many sets .cast steel crank . chevy rods rebuilt with Arp bolts or scat forged 6.135 rods . on heads ..if seen many valve jobs or alot of miles. more i go up to the 2.190. to help clean up heads . i would do all the ex seats if going big valve 1.880 make sure they only use a 1.937 O.D seat or you can cut threw the head