Good new, bad news.

Good; Here's a website specifically for '62-65 mopars http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/welcome.html there's lots there to help you figure out what configuration you can do. About half way down the page on the right hand side is the "Swap Meet index", cars and parts are listed by year and as clusters. This'll keep ya up for hours.

Bad; you've picked the time in car fascination when these are at their highest interest level ever..............which means they ain't gonna be cheap.

Good; Because of the high interest there is lots of support for these now that wasn't there 10 years ago, so, as Mike mentioned there are repops of some of the especially hard to get parts.

Bad; Even if you're making a clone, aren't concerned about date codes, are willing to use the repop parts that will visually "make" the engine compartment, hang on. The repop crossram manifold alone is $1400. By the time you do the linkage, fuel lines, carbs, and air cleaners it's any easy $3k. Those beautiful, upsweeping, cast iron exhaust manifolds will run around $1500.

Good; 440's are great, look close enough to the original 413 to pass for the normal viewer, make good horsepower without a lot of expensive internal parts, and bolt right in if you've got the big block K member.

Bad; (well, sorta) If you're going for an automatic and (hopefully) aren't going to use one of those tacky looking "ricky racer" floor shift conversions instead of the nifty push buttons, then you've got some decisions to make. The original trans didn't use U-joints they used a trunnion. If you're just going to putt the car that will probably be ok. If you're going to hammer it, you'll want to change to stout U-joints. In order to stick with the original park mechanism on the push button panel you'll need to get a trans, or at least the tail shaft and housing, from a '65. That was the first year they used a U joint, and the last for that type of park pawl, lever, housing combination, and cable selection for gear engagement. And it has to be from the V8 version of the trans, no leaning tower of power type. Similar situation with the rear end, they used taper end axles with the funky old style drums through '64, the more conventional flanged axles and U-joint center section started in '65.

Good; The '62 is the least popular of the '62-'65 B bodies, so they'll cost you the least to buy originally. But along with that comes the reality that fewer people "saved" these from the crusher so parts can sometimes be harder to get, but far from impossible.

Bad; The tin worm (rust) loved these cars. Having to replace floor pans is very, very common. Trunk floors too. They also have a nasty habit of erroding around the cowl corners (trash and moisture collect through the cowl vent), and under the corners of the rear window (Ma Mopar used foam for anti-rattle, acted like a sponge). The quarters behind the rear wheels are very vulnerable. There are still some cars out there that aren't eaten away (I got my very rust free [except from some light surface rust on the under belly] '65 Coronet last year), but you have to work and be patient to find one, and then be willing to step up as quickly as you can to secure the deal. Yes, rust replacement is expensive in time, effort, and parts............buying a car that doesn't need replacement tin is nearly ALWAYS worth the premium the seller is asking.

Good; Nothing says '60's super stock like a '62-65 Mopar!