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05-14-2013 10:42 AM #1
Which clutch do I need? Chevy engine, Ford Trans
I'v decided to 'tame' my rat rod as I want more of a driver so I think I will use a Chevy 350. Have access to one and a few parts I can put on it. Trans was bought to use behind a 460 and it is a T-18 long tail out of a 1987 Ford truck. I know that it can be made to fit with a few mods and a new bolt hole in the Chevy bellhousing, but what do I do with for a clutch?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-14-2013 07:08 PM #2
Use a Chevy pressure plate and a Ford clutch disc and whichever throw out bearing works. Don't forget to check the pilot bearingKen Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-15-2013 07:02 AM #3
Ok, that makes sense. So like if I use an 11" clutch, I get an 11" ford clutch and a pressure plate for a 11" Chevy clutch. Novak adapters makes a conversion pilot bearing and if my thinking is right, the throwout bearing should be a Ford part for a truck w/ T-18 4spdYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-15-2013 09:02 AM #4
You may want to compare the throwout bearing that goes with that Chevy pressure plate to the Ford bearing. The throwout bearing fits around the tranny input shaft, but it rides on the pressure plate fingers, thus the critical dimension may be Chevy? Not sure, just typing while thinking about it, which could be dangerous....Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-15-2013 09:06 AM #5
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05-15-2013 09:50 AM #6
I could easily buy a whole slew of throwout bearings to get one that worked. They don't cost that much. As far as a clutch linkage, I was planning on a hydraulic clutch kit. Either a Novak adapters kit which includes a slave, hydraulic clutch fork and a mount or buy a Chevy-landcruiser bracket from Advance Adapters that puts a factory adjustable Toyota slave cylinder on a Chevy bellhousing and then I can buy an OEM or aftermarket hydraulic clutch fork and a slave at the parts store
I did have an idea tho. If I had a machinist drill a flywheel for a Ford pressure plate, can't I keep it all Ford except the pilot bearing?Last edited by Matt167; 05-15-2013 at 10:14 AM.
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-15-2013 11:42 AM #7
Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-15-2013 07:36 AM #8
Yes, that sounds right and you'll have to fabricate your clutch linkage, but you probably already knew that. Good luck.Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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05-15-2013 02:39 PM #9
Matt, you might check the pressure plate offerings. Seems to me that the one I got for the 302 was dual mounts on the tabs - mounting tabs were wide, and there were two different mounting bolt patterns drilled. Not sure any are combo Chevy/Ford, but if I were making clutches I'd sure look at that option to reduce my inventory.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-16-2013 09:21 AM #10
Good idea. I know some Hayes flywheels are drilled for Ford 3 finger clutches, so it might just work the other way.. I actually had thought about getting a Chevy clutch that would match the trans, but the trans comes up as having a 10 spline 1 1/16" input shaft, and the only GM part that matches that is one that goes to a 3.9L Diesel in the P-30 chassis which is the 4BT Cummins, so it won't work..
I'm really going to need a spread sheet to keep track of what parts I used so when I break it, I will know what to buy.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-03-2013 08:48 AM #11
I just got a Bellhousing (P/N 3858403 ) off Ebay for $52 shipped. It is crack free and rings like a bell so it's good. Problem I'm having trouble understanding is, by Novaks description I have to drill and tap a new hole to match the Ford trans, and the other 3 holes will line up with a little work to the trans.. The bellhousing has thick castings where the bolt holes are and they are only about as big as the bolt holes are, and if I drill outside of those castings, it will be in thin aluminum.. Do I need a different bell or could I tap it, then use a stud and back it with a nut and a washer?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-03-2013 11:31 AM #12
I would guess you need a different bell housing. Your main concern should be the pilot beg. and pilot shaft alignment. If some one told you this would work I'd be knocking on there door. Seems like a lot of work to meCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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Christian in training
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06-03-2013 01:23 PM #13
It's actually information from Novak adapters. They sell bearing retainers that fit the Chevy bell and Chevy- Ford pilot bushings..
From Novak's description
"Transmission Front Face Bolt Holes
On the front face 1966 and newer Ford four-speed transmissions, the upper two mounting holes are each about 1/4 of a bolt hole off from the upper two holes in a GM bellhousing. If the holes in the Ford transmission ears are filed to be slightly elongated, they will match up with their mountings to the GM bellhousing. It may be recommended at this point that you test fit the transmission to the detached bellhousing, which will facilitate the next step.
On the lower front face of the Ford transmission are two ears that, if stock, are undrilled. The lower left ear can be drilled to easily match the hole in the lower left of the GM bellhousing. The right ear can then be drilled. It will not meet up with any hole in the GM bellhousing, so it is necessary that you drill and tap one to match. Use the same size bolt as you do for the other three. If you are not equipped with the tapping tools or the disposition to tap a good, clean set of threads, you may take this to a machinist as well. "
My transmission was sold as coming out of an '87 F-150 so it should work.. I have a Ford 351/400 4spd bell I can check to see how far off it really isLast edited by Matt167; 06-03-2013 at 01:27 PM.
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-03-2013 01:46 PM #14
Seems to me that you have it under control, good luckKen Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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06-03-2013 02:16 PM #15
So it is ok to back up the hole I need to drill/ tap with a nut and call it good?
The other 3 bolts and the bearing adapter I've got, it's just that one bolt because the hole only be ~1/8" or so deep in that area. I've got the other bell out, and getting ready to see how far off it is but just by looking quick, it will leave a bit under 1/2 of the trans face uncovered which is ok I guessYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
The only time I ever get asked for sex is on application forms.
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