09-01-2011 06:41 PM #16
Three things(again)one Call TCI tech line as I said,two,I don't think jury rigging you going to get the correct TV cable adjustment,three if that is wrong,you going to burn up the 700R4.NOT a guess here,just a matter of time.
Now I can only suggest the best path for you to take,BUT if you decide not to follow that,it is all I can do.
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I got to be honest with you.I am aggravated abit because I gave you a ref to the best RV site on the web and I can tell you never even bothered to look by what you are posting.That equals to any of the advise anyone gave you and you not taking it.It is kind of frustrating.BTW-a trans shop telling you a trans can handle 700 hp needs to put on their big boy pants.Because 700hp means something different to a 1800lb vehicle than it means to a 8000 lbs one in terms of a trans.Sooooooooooo what they said logically means not much.
Now the whole idea was reducing the engine rpm with the overdrive transmission, so that I could go a little faster, with less noise and slightly improved fuel consumption.
I was aiming at like 20mpg. I agree with you as far as the "sweet spot" goes. I'll have to figure out what the best cruising speed is for the best fuel economy.
However, first I guess I have to figure out why this many gallons of fuel were just turned into transmission heat instead of miles on the road.
Don't get aggravated and then complain because someone didn't immediately run to your selected site or follow your advice in what you determined to be a reasonable amount of time. Not all of us can spend so much time surfing the web or doing a bunch of research to a problem. That's why we get together in these forums and discuss our "issues" good & bad.
I humbly offer the above that you can shake off this issue and accept that you cannot live the posters life and cannot make his decisions, you can offer your OPINION and your ADVICE and leave it at that. We all hope that things work out for the best for the OP and I think we all would agree that your passion for helping others is evident but don't let that get you into a bad mood! And I hope you can accept what I've written in the spirit it was intended. It's just a vehicle after all!
The ref links and not the least iRV2 is the same thing as me telling someone about this forum and for some very good reasons..............
I am in fact considering all the feedback I'm getting here.
I know very well that adjusting the TV cable correctly is crucial for this transmission, as I have said somewhere in one of my replies above.
I'm going to work on this as soon as I get the pressure test kit.
Using the constant pressure valve kit from TCI is certainly a good option, but it adds another $250 to a project that has already gone way over budget (not talking about the transmission here).
BTW - I'm pretty sure the TCI tech is gonna ask me what my line pressure readings are. So I should know those before I call, don't you think?
As far as the transmission shop people are concerned - they build the transmission specifically for my application.
They knew the vehicle specs, the engine, and especially the fact that it is heavy.
They said the trans can handle that weight. If in fact it cannot I will go back there and shove it up their...
But I'm not at that point yet. For now I'm just trying to figure out what the noise in OD lock up is, and why it's turning so much of my gas mileage into heat.
So please don't be upset that I haven't run out yet to get the part from TCI.
My next step is taking pressure readings and making sure it's not an issue with the TV cable adjustment.
Thank you for your and everybody else's input.
Don't sweat it.
You don't need the part from TCI.
Setting up the cable correctly is all thats req'd.
I had an issue with an aftermarket TV cable that was binding inside the sheath and it felt as though I was at full pull when in fact is was actually hung up.
I discovered this by dropping the pan and having someone work the throttle and seeing the valve not fully depressed.
Last edited by Dq383500; 09-03-2011 at 12:19 PM.
18mpg on any RV deserves a bumper kiss.So go out right now and take care of that next.
I got some work done this weekend, so here is what I found.
I took pressure readings. From what I found the line pressure in OD should be 90-110psi minimum and 190-230psi max. Mine was 70psi at idle, didn't increase much until I was at around 50% throttle, around 100psi when cruising at 55mph in OD, and maxed out at about 130psi at full throttle.
Readjusted the TV cable so that pressure increases as soon as I hit the accelerator.
Readings are now 70psi idle, increases quickly to 100, 120psi. It's around 150psi when cruising at 55mph, and maxes out at about 180psi.
Still a little below the should-be ranges but better than before. Any thoughts about the pressure readings?
The howling noise at 60mph in OD with TC locked hasn't changed at all.
Rewired the solenoid. Simply gets 12V from a toggle switch and is grounded right at the transmission case. No difference. I figured it wouldn't make a difference since the solenoid only draws about 1/2 amp so cable length doesn't have much of an impact.
Drove a few miles today to take the pressure readings. After readjusting the TV cable I did about 30 miles of highway driving in OD with the TC locked (despite the noise) and found that the oil was staying around 160F.
It seems like most of the heat issues I had on my recent trip came in fact from the TC when it ran unlocked.
Now here is something else I found.
Took the drive shaft and the tail housing off to find out the speedometer gears installed as my speedometer is about 18% too fast. There seems to be a lot of play in the rear main bearing. I would guess the play in the bearing is about 1/32 of an inch, which I think is a lot. The rear end of the output shaft moves almost 1/4" up/down or left/right. I got a feeling that's where my noise and vibration is coming from.
Check out this video and photos:
I don't think a freshly rebuilt transmission should have this kind of play.
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks a lot.
We and I am including myself have much to offer in advise,but the advise I insist you could get for free is the TCI tech line.No cost if I didn't make my point clear.Do yourself a big favor,tomorrow call them up letting us know what they said and then tell you trans shop what you think is the problem armed with that information.Remember-it is cost free.
That line pressure isn't going to get it done.
The play in the output shaft is normal.
The yoke takes up the slack when it slides in. It rides in the bushing at the rear of the extension housing.
They're saying my line pressure is too low at 70psi. On a rebuilt transmission the pressure should be 110psi. Depending on what causes the pressure to be that low the constant pressure valve body they sell may or may not fix the pressure issue.
The guy said the tolerance on the output shaft bearing is 25/1000" which seems a lot to me. So it seems the slack in the output shaft is in fact normal.
He couldn't help me with my noise in OD with TC locked. Nobody seems to have had that ever before.
I'll be talking to the shop that built the trans next.
Thanks again everyone.