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Thread: pr. plate/clutch clearance
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    tcodi's Avatar
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    pr. plate/clutch clearance

     



    since the bell must be installed in order to depress clutch fork all the way and disengage pressure plate, how on earth am I supposed to get anything in there to check that I have .030 clearance between clutch and plate?
    It seems to me that the starter opening is the only place where you'd even have a chance, but you still couldn't see anything.

  2. #2
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You don't check it. When you put it all together and try to put the car into gear and it just grinds, then the pressure plate is dragging on the clutch, if not, then you're ok.

  3. #3
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    Re: pr. plate/clutch clearance

     



    Originally posted by tcodi
    since the bell must be installed in order to depress clutch fork all the way and disengage pressure plate, how on earth am I supposed to get anything in there to check that I have .030 clearance between clutch and plate?
    It seems to me that the starter opening is the only place where you'd even have a chance, but you still couldn't see anything.
    all you can do is adj. your clutch free travel at the paddle and if it wont disengage then, you well need to replace the clutch and p-plate any way. the preload in the p-plate is set at the factory and you cant change it.
    Mike
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  4. #4
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    I hope that sucker disengages.
    thanks
    One other thing, my clutch pedal connection point (through the floor pedal) is about 1" to the left and 2" below the fork dimple. I can use a little bushing to center it up left to right, but not up and down. Will it have a real bad effect if the linkage pulls the fork back and a little downward too?

  5. #5
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    I hope that sucker disengages.
    thanks
    One other thing, my clutch pedal connection point (through the floor pedal) is about 1" to the left and 2" below the fork dimple. I can use a little bushing to center it up left to right, but not up and down. Will it have a real bad effect if the linkage pulls the fork back and a little downward too?
    is your clutch pedal rod hooked to the clutch folk? why wont it line up?
    Mike
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  6. #6
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    here is a sketch of what I mean
    Attached Files

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    here is a sketch of what I mean

    im not sure thats gonna work looks like to me its pulling on the cluth fork not pushing which one is it doing
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  8. #8
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    well it's not setup yet, but this is how it will be, I think.
    It will be pulling if it's like this, does it make a difference if it's pulling or pushing?
    I can't see why it would.
    It's just that it is not perfectly straight back, so there will be a little force vectoring to deal with. Some will be pulling down while most will be pulling straight back.

  9. #9
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    well it's not setup yet, but this is how it will be, I think.
    It will be pulling if it's like this, does it make a difference if it's pulling or pushing?
    I can't see why it would.
    It's just that it is not perfectly straight back, so there will be a little force vectoring to deal with. Some will be pulling down while most will be pulling straight back.
    i guess it will pull as good as push but thats not you problem if it is as much angle as it looks like is not gonna stay on the pivot ball. there is a lot of pressure there. why not run the rod up on the pedal above the pivot and let it push, then it looks like it would work,
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  10. #10
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    If I put it above the pivot on the pedal, then it would push, but how would I reverse that motion at the fork so that the fork moved in the right direction?

  11. #11
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    If I put it above the pivot on the pedal, then it would push, but how would I reverse that motion at the fork so that the fork moved in the right direction?
    sorry about that, so back to square one. i really think it to much angle, have you thought about hyd. clutch?
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  12. #12
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    the overhead view that shows the side to side misalignment can be fixed with a simple bushing on the side of my pedal connection to move the link over. But the up and down isn't so easy. I can't just move it up or it won't pull on the fork like I need, it will push.

  13. #13
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    the overhead view that shows the side to side misalignment can be fixed with a simple bushing on the side of my pedal connection to move the link over. But the up and down isn't so easy. I can't just move it up or it won't pull on the fork like I need, it will push.
    if its a chev. block why cant you you use the ball on the side of the block, you can push on that at a angle but not thr clutch ball?
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  14. #14
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    I'm real confused now. I'm not sure what the picture was showing exactly.
    Ball on engine block? I'm not sure about that either.

  15. #15
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    Originally posted by tcodi
    I'm real confused now. I'm not sure what the picture was showing exactly.
    Ball on engine block? I'm not sure about that either.
    denny he need a better pic. buddy ok i know that its suppose to like is just the way all chev factory clutch linkage works. let him draw you something dif or if you had a stright shift pick up you could look at would work to. but all that angle is not gonna work you need to do someyhing dif.
    Last edited by lt1s10; 02-23-2005 at 01:18 PM.
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