Thread: Can adapt a few parts from my mercedes?

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I was thinking about taking the vacume power door locks from my Mercedes and put them in my '51 Chevy, if I can with little to no cost, I'm putting them in.

Originally posted by Matt167
I was thinking about taking the vacume power door locks from my Mercedes and put them in my '51 Chevy, if I can with little to no cost, I'm putting them in.

All it takes is a torch, welder, wrenches & a little head scratchin'

Originally posted by pro70z28
All it takes is a torch, welder, wrenches & a little head scratchin'

I'll take the locks out of the Benz to see what can be done with putting them in the Chevy, all they are is a cylinder with 2 vac lines coming out and I know they work cause we tested them b4 we tore the diesel apart. They also lock themselves sometimes, probably because of heat and expansion and contraction in the lines causing vacume and sucking them closed.

Just my opinion, but I think you'd be better off getting an aftermarket power lock kit. Using 20+ year old vacuum equipment will not make it dependable. Many of the parts use rubber diaphrams and these can crack, dry out and rot causing various vacuum leaks (like you're experiencing already). This, plus you'll need to find an area to mount a vacuum tank you don't need with electrical units. Space on a hot rod can be at a premium! Most aftermarket lock systems cost under $200 and are universal which will save time refabricating the M-B parts to the Chevy.

Matt, just from personal experience, make a game plan to attack this project. Are locks the first thing this car needs? Plan your project by priority. Power locks and windows will not keep the car from running (unless you spend your time and money on locks instead of the engine, transmission, brakes, etc.).

Good luck!

Originally posted by Streets
[B]They will IF he leaves the only set of keys inside and the cracked line from the vacuum tank leaks and locks all the doors...

You can solve that problem of locking yourself out.
Just get a tennis ball cut ahole in it about the size of a 20 cent piece fit the cut ball over the keyhole and give the ball a sharp shove, the compressed air should charge the lines and pop up the lock. good luck

Ah maybe I should add it only works on models with the vacume lines going directly to the keylock.

Yeah, maby I should stick to the old system, less to go wrong. I kinda have a game plan, I want to get it road legal and safe for the road, all the goodies come next year.

Now your thinkin Matt, I seen the picture of your car and theres plenty of work there ta keep ya busy, make it safe & dependable first, then ya can start customiziing as time and money allow....

HAHAHA! You guys are killin me, I better hush or I'll get the boss man over here.

Matt, you have stuck through it here and listened to much advice, all of it good, solid, and helpful. I think you'll find that the more you plan and wait patiently the easier things seem to fall into place. Making a priority list is definatly a great idea. Taking on one task at a time can really keep ya motivated and is good fer the spirit. It keeps ya from feelin bogged down or lost in the mountain of things ya haved planned (that can change daily LOL). After ya make yer list focus on one item, it feels good when ya cross it off and really gets ya juiced to work some more. I like that Cheby and cant wait ta see all the progress pics.

Well right now I'm working on the body and everything, I get bored with bodywork, I do somthing mechanical. Yesterday I half changed the oil ( the guy at the auto parts place gave me the wrong filter ), there not a stocked part so it takes a day to get it. but at least I know that I need the equivalent of a puralator P15 cause that's what's in it. Today I took off the front bumper so I could sand it down and paint it flat black. Saturday or monday, I'm going to check the vacume for the wipers, order a new dizzy cap and wires cause I think I got a cylinder missing and compression checks out good in all cyl's at 75 PSI.

Originally posted by Streets
ALL exactly at 75?? or near 75? And use your old timmin' light to see if your wires are losin'/missin'.... better than replacin' and still have the problem.. Hook each one separately whilst runnin' and watch the light when it "Miss's"... IF it goes out that's a good sign it's bad........................................

All of them checked out at ither 75, 74 or 76. I'll get the timin light out and do what you described.

I use me trusty plug wire testing pen. It's about as old as electrizzity itself but it works goooood.

How does that work?

Originally posted by Matt167
How does that work?