Thread: Order of hot rod build

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This is my first hot rod build and I was hoping the experts here could review my plan and offer advice.
So far my focus has been on rust repair and replacing wood with steel on my 1937 Buick Roadmaster, but I'm about to start on upgrade of suspension & drivetrain
I bought a 1995 Buick Roadmaster donor car a few years ago and will use for many parts.
Here is my plan:
1) Front Suspension - Upgrade to ball joints using variation of: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ension_upgrade

2) Rear suspension - Leaf Springs TBD added to rear axle and air leveling shocks from donor car.
3) Steering - Bought rear steer, center take-off RetroRack and will couple to tilt steer column from donor car.
4) Engine & transmission - 5.7LV8 & 4L60E auto trans from donor car.
5) Body and frame media blasted together and all epoxy primed.
Is the above order the best order to attack the build? I seems like engine and transmission may be better as first so the weight is accommodated with suspension work.
Would I be better off having the body and frame media blasted first and primed before beginning on the other tasks? Body work and rust repair is not complete yet.
Thanks

Using one roadmaster for another! I like it. Will the new frame work for the old car or are you just stripping parts for old frame? I'm guess different wheel base and widths from 1937 to 1995! Never tackled a project to this level, but plenty of folks here who have. Look foward to watching your build!

Originally Posted by stovens

Using one roadmaster for another! I like it. Will the new frame work for the old car or are you just stripping parts for old frame? I'm guess different wheel base and widths from 1937 to 1995! Never tackled a project to this level, but plenty of folks here who have. Look foward to watching your build!

I'm using the old frame. The new frame is much wider. I'm upgrading the original IFS with new control arms and disk brakes.

If it were me? I'd start with the body and frame already assembled and then do all the mock up work.
Get the suspensions where I like them and then verify the brakes will be able to fit/work...
then Mock up the motor and tranny, put the front-end back on and get a radiator in it...
You could even get the exhaust mocked up and in.

Then blow it all apart for finishes.

I love those old Roadmasters.I would agree to mock up everything you can before you make anything permanent. It seems like progress when you weld up something permanent and paint it up nice. However it is not fun to cut it all apart again later to redo it. I've been down that road alot. I am doing my final assembly now and I am still dealing with things I should have made different. But after the entire vehicle is painted, you have less options.

Thanks 34_40 & 53 Chevy5 for your feedback. Here is my new build order:
1) Front Suspension - Upgrade to ball joints & front disc brakes using variation of: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ension_upgrade
2) Rear suspension - Leaf Springs TBD added to rear axle and air leveling shocks from donor car.
3) Saddle style gas tank fitted in front of rear axle
4) Steering - Bought rear steer, center take-off RetroRack and will couple to tilt steer column from donor car.
5) Mock-up engine, transmission, drive shaft, radiator, exhaust, front sheetmetal - 5.7LV8 & 4L60E auto trans from donor car.
6) Mock-up front floorboards & tunnel from sheetmetal
7) Remove front sheetmetal, exhaust, engine, transmission, drive shaft, radiator & gas tank
8) Finish sheetmetal floorboards & tunnel on bottom side
9) Main body and frame media blasted together and all epoxy primed.
How does this revised list look?

Looks like a plan!
Remember that the more you do now and make permanent it'll be that much less that you should have to fiddle with and possibly damage your new finishes. You might as well get the whole car into running trim and be certain you enjoy what you've built, then disassemble for the final finish / paint etc.

Just try not to stray away and change your mind during the build. That is what always takes me so long to finish one. I always want to make it better or saw something I'd rather have. good luck.

Thanks to you both for your help!

A couple of years ago some experts at this website blessed the above build order. Due to time and space constraints I'm considering having a local shop complete the engine, rear suspension, and fuel cell portions. Can anyone tell me if there will be issues if I switch those three line items to the top of the list for this revised order of build?:
1) Rear suspension - Triangulated 4-link rear axle and air leveling shocks from donor car.
2) Mock-up engine, transmission, drive shaft, radiator, exhaust, front sheet metal - 5.7LV8 & 4L60E auto trans from donor car.
3) Fuel cell installed
4) Front Suspension - Upgrade to ball joints & front disc brakes using variation of: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ension_upgrade
5) Steering - Bought rear steer, center take-off RetroRack and will couple to tilt steer column from donor car.
6) Mock-up front floorboards & tunnel from sheetmetal
7) Remove front sheetmetal, exhaust, engine, transmission, drive shaft, radiator & gas tank
8) Finish sheetmetal floorboards & tunnel on bottom side
9) Main body and frame media blasted together and all epoxy primed.
Does the front suspension need to be installed before the rear?
Thanks

I do my builds this way
1.Clean the parts & car with media blasting, epoxy prime after cleaning out all the media in all the nooks and crannies
2. Mock up the frame and suspension (rolling chassis)
3. Mock up Engine and drivetrain
4. Repair patch panels
5. I even Mock up the interior
6. Mock up the entire build
7. Tear it all apart and now do the bodywork and paint then reinstall everything that now fits properly

I can't do enough mock up, after the entire car is built in mock up everything is then prepped for finish paint and reassembled, reassembly is actually fun knowing everything fits and no changes are needed. I can't say there is only one way to skin a cat but bodywork at the end for me reassures a nice fresh paint job with no needed holes etc. I guess whatever works for you, I am no self proclaimed expert but it works for me! Above all if your not having fun you have more chance of not finishing the build, Patch panels on a media blasted body is a breeze, cleaning off all that old crud to weld in a panel is a pain, and there has been more than one person who media blasted and found out under that pristine old patina there was old bondo/fiberglass or lead that had to be addressed they didn't know about. Starting with it blasted lets me see what I really have to work with.

Also, in my planning stages I have an idea of what the ride height should be, your frame is set to that and then your suspension put under to accommodate that stance. I can tell you exactly what the height of my frame is, front and back before I start my build. It involves heading to a lot of car shows or looking at builds that you like and measuring them and writing down dimensions (asking before doing) This pre-planning is done before ever working on the car usually, and knowing what parts, tire sizes etc will be used
Those professional built cars that set right, they just didn't get lucky on that its in the planning.

Thanks for the feedback.
How important is it that the front suspension is mocked up before the rear?

To me it doesn't matter as long as the ride height and frame clearence remains what is planned, which is predetermined from tire and wheel sizes, suspension travel and proper rake.

Thanks for your help.