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Thread: Por-15 Review
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Roger it's been on the frame for over 7 years, it ain't coming off. Still stand by it
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    So what is a better product to use in a situation where the body isn't coming off the frame and sand blasting isn't an option? The owner of this truck didn't want to spend the money and time to do all that. The POR-15 was the way he wanted to go. Or even for a sprucing up of an old truck frame? My eyes and ears are open.
    Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.
    Last edited by rspears; 09-13-2016 at 08:24 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #18
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    rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .

  4. #19
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    I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

    For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  5. #20
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .
    Believe me, I should have just rattle canned the dang thing. It would be done by now! Maybe in Texas you can get away with leaving the rust, but that won't work too well here with the crap they put on our roads.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

    For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.
    I've had horrid luck with Krylon products not wanting to dry so I quit using them.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.
    I'll definitely look into this. Hopefully I won't take on any more of this type of stuff for others.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by stovens View Post
    Roger it's been on the frame for over 7 years, it ain't coming off. Still stand by it
    How many of those 7 years have been driving with rocks hitting it etc? Another thing to keep in mind, I bet your 7 year ago made POR is not of the same quality as today's. Here is a pic of part of the frame that peeled. Other areas around that spot are glued on. Then you have more peeling next to it. I found these awesome spots while scuffing the por to top coat it. Luckily for me, from the leaf spring hangers back I used acid etch primer, then applied the por. All that stuck fine. I scuffed all that with 80 grit and then applied raptor liner. It should be good to go now. From the front shackles forward the customer wanted smooth and shiny. I should have messed up and just applied raptor liner to it too. It would have been done last week! Keep in mind this is on a 550hp diesel mall crawler. (If it matters) Haha

    I have stripped the peeling por with paint stripper and wire wheels. Hopefully in the morning I can mask it all off and get it shot. Then it will be time to paint trans, tcase, and then assemble the engine.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by 40FordDeluxe; 09-14-2016 at 12:07 PM.
    rspears likes this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  9. #24
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    I've tried replying a few times but the site seems to go dead!
    So one last attempt! We used to apply (brush on) phosphoric acid ( I believe it was) and let it dry, then wipe it down with clean rags / towels and then spray on paint. I think it does what you're asking, oxidizes the rust so you can topcoat over it.

  10. #25
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    If it matters to anyone, Rustoleum's Industrial product doesn't come in rattle cans. It's only in bulk containers, and it has a specific primer that goes with that line. It can be sprayed, but in a traditional spray gun with enough orifice to flow the paint. I used it on about 200' of custom deck railing, and after five years it looks like the day it was sprayed. Rattle cans are for hobbys.
    NTFDAY and MP&C like this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I believe that POR15 is a close relative to powder coating, where the "sheeting" effect is great if it bonds as expected/advertised, but is a curse if it simply forms a sheet that's floating free of the surface, and heaven help you if moisture gets underneath that floating sheet, because it will hide the rust monster until the sheet breaks free. Not a fan.
    I'm with roger on this, it's not something I would use again as I used it exactly as instructions and found it lifting after 6 months, luckily it was only a test piece and not a complete frame
    rspears likes this.
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  12. #27
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    I figured I'd post pics of the project after I shot some single stage on it. No more por.
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    34_40, rspears and Matthyj like this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  13. #28
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    As Stovens said the more rust the better, if those spots that you noticed the por peeling from didn't have any kind of surface rust i would imagine it probably didn't have anything to adhere to. It's really not meant to be used as an undercoating per say, but rather as rust inhibitor for particularly bad places. We use it on the under side of hoods and floors for the most part. Works excellent on a frame too but sand blasted and epoxy prime is best for that.

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