Thread: Por-15 Review

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How do you guys feel about using something like
Rhino Liner type of treatments // coatings for those items?

Moisture control and degreasing is paramount just as it is when doing body work?
Run a dehumidifier or place a few DampRid type things around the area of application?

Just some questionable ideas from the outside looking in.

Originally Posted by t-top havoc

How do you guys feel about using something like
Rhino Liner type of treatments // coatings for those items?

Moisture control and degreasing is paramount just as it is when doing body work?
Run a dehumidifier or place a few DampRid type things around the area of application?

Just some questionable ideas from the outside looking in.

I put raptor liner on this truck and they say that the raptor liner has rust preventative properties. My concern, and the reason I used the por, was to try to stop any rust growth before the raptor liner was applied. I always thought in the past por-15 did just that. Stop rust from growing or forming. We used several of their products when I worked in a body shop 15yrs ago. I spoke to my old boss today and he said por sold out a while ago off the record and cheapened their products. he said he quit using them because he had 2 cars come back from the stuff peeling off and floor pans badly rusted. I wish he would have said something sooner. That is no good.

So what is a better product to use in a situation where the body isn't coming off the frame and sand blasting isn't an option? The owner of this truck didn't want to spend the money and time to do all that. The POR-15 was the way he wanted to go. Or even for a sprucing up of an old truck frame? My eyes and ears are open.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

So what is a better product to use in a situation where the body isn't coming off the frame and sand blasting isn't an option? The owner of this truck didn't want to spend the money and time to do all that. The POR-15 was the way he wanted to go. Or even for a sprucing up of an old truck frame? My eyes and ears are open.

Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.

rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .

Originally Posted by shine

rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .

Believe me, I should have just rattle canned the dang thing. It would be done by now! Maybe in Texas you can get away with leaving the rust, but that won't work too well here with the crap they put on our roads.

Originally Posted by rspears

Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.

I'll definitely look into this. Hopefully I won't take on any more of this type of stuff for others.

I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.

I've had horrid luck with Krylon products not wanting to dry so I quit using them.

I've tried replying a few times but the site seems to go dead!
So one last attempt! We used to apply (brush on) phosphoric acid ( I believe it was) and let it dry, then wipe it down with clean rags / towels and then spray on paint. I think it does what you're asking, oxidizes the rust so you can topcoat over it.

If it matters to anyone, Rustoleum's Industrial product doesn't come in rattle cans. It's only in bulk containers, and it has a specific primer that goes with that line. It can be sprayed, but in a traditional spray gun with enough orifice to flow the paint. I used it on about 200' of custom deck railing, and after five years it looks like the day it was sprayed. Rattle cans are for hobbys.

I figured I'd post pics of the project after I shot some single stage on it. No more por.

As Stovens said the more rust the better, if those spots that you noticed the por peeling from didn't have any kind of surface rust i would imagine it probably didn't have anything to adhere to. It's really not meant to be used as an undercoating per say, but rather as rust inhibitor for particularly bad places. We use it on the under side of hoods and floors for the most part. Works excellent on a frame too but sand blasted and epoxy prime is best for that.