Thread: 1947 Biederman Truck Fender Repairs

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Thanks for that; that's certainly a tip worth noting.

In fact; thanks for taking the time with your threads to show us dull crayons just how these various jobs are done professionally.

Your posts are a 'must read' on here, and are appreciated.

Thank-you.

Man, you even cut super straight with a jig saw. I'm really jealous. I for one appreciate all your time you dedicate to explaining your work on the internet. I have learned a lot from you and I really like the way you show how you make certain tools to get the job done and modifying ones you already have to stay working on it. I've used a lot of your tips and noticed my work is looking better in the finished stages because of it. Thank you!

I never heard of that brand of truck,must have been a low production company.

(repost of lost thread)

Needed about one more day of curing on the wagon's epoxy primer, so today let's work on one of the Biederman fenders.. With Kyle on vacation I was shorthanded in the shop so John (the owner) came by and lent a hand.

First step was to remove the inner fender to see what we had to work with, added some 1/8 holes to use later for clecos in putting things back together..





The front of the fender bolts to the bumper filler panel, and the rear bolts to the running board. These have a difference in height of 13-3/4, so some blocks were screwed together to hold the fender in correct placement while we worked.





The inner is getting replaced so the spot welds were ground out for removal.





Once removed, we found more pitting and damage than we originally thought was there, so now lets make this new as well..








New piece is cut out and the Wheeling machine with the go kart slick is used to add the correct radius..








Then the flange bend line is marked/thinned using a tipping die in the Lennox like we did for the inner panels we made..





Then a tipping die and Skateboard wheel in the bead roller is used to make the initial fold on the marked line





and finished up with a Step die so we could use it as a backstop





The Erco 1447 with stretcher dies was used to stretch the flange in between tipping sessions. All done, matches the fender contour, we'll get the other side folded down next time..

Here's a quick video to show how the radius for the filler panel was done..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZnCTqLZg9lg

With the flanges turned both directions....







Looking at the rear of the fender that was adjacent to the cab, we found flat areas that seem to indicate some rubbing was occurring. So while we were fabricating the filler panel, we added about 1/8" to shove the fender outward away from the cab.






















https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mZTMi3VMr4

Some more work on the Biederman fenders..

A paper pattern was taken from the front of the fender to use as a guide to cut out the new piece from 16 ga cold rolled steel.







Some 19 gauge was hemmed flat and the Erco kick shrinker used to make profile templates for the horizontal and vertical directions..













The initial shape was added with a blocking hammer and shot bag, and finished on the Wheeling Machine..






Getting close....








This video shows the progress so far, as well as the rust on the leading edge we're repairing..

https://youtu.be/zc4hdatz-hE

Fender filler panel no. 2 complete..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uvnvZTTEbs


Fender patch is getting closer...

Final tweaks ..... clamped and marked with a scribe..








Trimming out the rust...





14 ga rated Milwaukee shear walks right through...





Trimming around the wired edging, careful not to nick it. The wrapped sheet metal is opened slightly using the door skin pliers..











With the sheet metal loosened from the wire, a slight twist will break the sheet metal at the score even not having cut through to the wire.








This outer section will become a template for the radius on the new patch.





Trimmed....





Fitted....





Saturday Kyle will get the old metal media blasted next to the weld seam so we can fire up the TIG welder..

Man, beautiful work, That patch looks like ss. Very nice work!

Thanks, that's from those polished wheels on the wheeling machine. It's actually 16 gauge cold rolled steel.

I agree beautiful work, neat way to save the wire edge!

Rich

Times 2! Wonderful piece of work, just amazing to me how it all comes together.

Thanks!


Time to break out the TIG welder. The new stumps for the upcoming metalshaping class work well as a welding table. The patch is securely clamped from inside to outside to get an accurate marking for tipping the fold around the wire.





Flexible Spline is used to carry the opening mark down the patch...





Tacked in with the TIG




















Next we'll wrap the wire and trim the front edge to size.

Great looking weld! What diameter filler rod are
You using?

Rich

Rich, 1/16 diameter electrode, .045 diameter filler rod