After cooling off a little im gonna give this another chance. comment that has all the info on it is on page 5 with a link in it.
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After cooling off a little im gonna give this another chance. comment that has all the info on it is on page 5 with a link in it.
I didn't hear anything bad.. but, the video is at the wrong end of the car!
OH, welcome to CHR too. Good to see you here and hope you enjoy the site and the folks.
Your profile shows New York. the plates show Canada...
I agree with Mike, put your camera/mike up front, focused on the engine. The exhaust sounds OK with a healthy idle, but the exhaust note drowns out any engine sounds that might point to problems. Also, after your 45 second clip it rolls into a longer clip about a red '82 which is a different car, right?
Welcome to CHR.
Sounds good to me, but since you don't know much about the internals I think I'd keep the shift point at 5 grand or below.
Welcome
JMHO, it sounds like back pressure, possibly a leaky exhaust gasket/joint, or a loose muffler baffle..
Glad you enjoyed Denny,
Maybe just my ears, but I'm hearing a rattle on the reversion...
JMHO, but I think that what you're hearing is harmonics and the baffling in the mufflers.
As the above question asks,
To me it sounds like a little back pressure as it comes off throttle, it doesn't mean a bad thing. However, my old ears hear a slight rattle at reversion. Thus the suggestion to check for a loose baffle and/or small exhaust leak, both of which are easy to do.
Not trying to be funny, certainly no disrespect intended, and it may just be harmonics as suggested...
And I believe that resonators behind the mufflers would probably cancel some of it out though I sure wouldn't want to do that.
K thank for the reply I would get a another vid of the engine bay while it was running but it is tucked away for the winter because we got a couple feet of snow here lol. and as for the fact ti says new york when it asked for where i was it said sate and there aren't states here in canada..................
K thanks that is what i thought for shift points rpm wise. The power curve feels like it peaks between 5000 and 5300 because around 5500 you can feel/hear it lose some power so thats why i kept my shift points around that 5000 - 5300 mark. As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while. (its one thing if its a shitty honda motor i got for free lol!)
I have experienced it many times, it's not enough of a leak to make it backfire (yet), but the added exhaust pressure will certainly make the baffles unhappy...
Son, before you begin reading what I wrote here, don't think that I'm picking on you. I'm just bein' REAL with you and attempting to help prepare you for dealing
with other folks who might try to take advantage of your inexperience.
I'm 17.... but there is still alot I dont know.
Really? :3dSMILE: I'm 73 and believe me, there's a ton of stuff that I don't know yet.
355 full roller motor. The whole motor and exhaust system has been redone (with what i dont know)
First off, you don't know that it's a 355 until you research the casting number and suffix number on the block. It could just as easily be a 262, 265, 283, 305, 307, 327 or 400. Secondly, you don't know that it's a roller motor until you disassemble it and eyeball the roller lifters for yourself.
I just know that the receipt the older man i bought it from said it was 10 grand for the crate motor and the parts that went into it.
The receipt that you saw doesn't necessarily belong to the motor that you bought. It could be from another motor that the fellow built, or from a friend's build, or from who-knows-where. Your motor could be one that I listed above with a flat tappet Thumpr cam in it to make it lope. Trust me here son, if this was a $10,000 motor, it wouldn't be signing off at under 5500 rpm's. :eek:
Most any of the fellows on this forum have the knowledge and expertise to build you a 500 horsepower / 500 ft./lbs of torque motor for under $5,000, just so you know.
It said state and there aren't states here in canada.
No, but there are 10 provinces and 3 territories to choose from. The whole idea is to know approximately where you live so the answers we give will be intelligent ones (hopefully).
As for the cam i will never know any of the internals unless i pull it apart and seeing as i dont trust myself pulling apart a $10,000 motor just yet i don't think i will know for a while.
Again, I doubt you have to worry about it costing $10,000. I'm pretty sure the seller was yankin' your chain just to jack the price up and make the sale.
If you'd like to research the motor as far as what the casting number and suffix number will tell you, look at these photos....
Here's the block casting number, on the driver's side rear of the block....
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg
Here's the suffix number that will tell you what application the motor was intended for from the factory...it's located on the passenger side of the block just ahead of where the head ends and is adjacent to the passenger side top water pump bolt. It may be hidden behind an alternator or other accessory piece...
DSC09740A.jpg Photo by dan1s | Photobucket
Pull either driver's side or passenger's side valve cover and inspect the head for a casting number. This will tell the tale....
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/09/stockCastNo.jpg
If you don't feel confident pulling a valve cover, at least try to match the end casting symbols and let us know what you have....If the motor has aftermarket heads on it (which it damned well should have even if the builder spent only $5,000), the manufacturer's name will be stamped into the metal at the end of the head and can be seen easily without removing anything...a magnet held against either head will tell you whether the head is cast iron or aluminum....
http://image.hotrod.com/f/31706454+w...ds_test%2B.jpg
http://www.onedirt.com/photos/data/5...Marks_copy.jpg
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...casting_id.jpg
It would also be helpful to us if you'd give the description and part numbers off the intake manifold, carburetor and distrubutor. Photos are worth their weight in gold....
.
I will tell you my new best friend in preventing leaks and they are cheap...Nord lock washers, you can use them with your existing bolts and they are reusable. They sell them buy various other names through header manufacturers for a ton more money, but you can get them individually at Fastenal in stainless steel or steel. I put them on and have forgot about them, never had to tighten them again. I talked with a header rep that has some EXPENSIVE fancy products (expanding bolts w/a recessed set screw) and he said, come over here and behind therir booth he said, "Use the Nordlock and save some money" that was at a NSRA event. I also used them on the collectors and not a leak yet, I literally tried about every other option including saftey wiring and these work the best & the cheapest I have found (my opinion only)
https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...+Washer%2FPair
(thats the retail cost, you can get them cheaper if you have an account)
Google Nord lock to see how they work
so first i know for sure its a 355. Its a 350 thats been bored out to 355.
second i know its roller because i have seen the rollers in it when i replaced the vavle cover gaskets and because of the bag of extra roller rockers i was given with it
third the receipt is from that motor and it was for the crate motor, the parts, and the labor to put it together and it was for that motor.
third it didnt say anything but states, however i did find out that it accepts putting in the first letters of the province im in so i was able to change it
fourth again it was for that motor and i dont plan on ripping apart an expensive running motor for no reason
last i want to make it clear that i do know a good amount. i have done all the work on it so far (clutch, tranny rebuild, valve cover gaskets, re doing the intake (plaining it and replaceing gasket) clutch fan, tranny mounts, carb work and tunning and some electrical stuff) so please dont think im just a stupid kid that believed what ever the guy told me. i did my research i made sure it checked out. so please dont come on here saying stuff like that. thanks
ok so i would like to clear some things up with you.
first the motor is a 355. it was a 350 that was bored out to 355.
second the receipt was for that motor. it was the crate motor and parts and some of the labor for machining and shipping etc. now i would also like to point out that it was in CND which is much lower then the USD so it would look like it cost more in your eyes.
third i know its a roller motor because i have seen the roller rockers when i replaced the valve cover gaskets because of some leaky oil
last i want to point out that i do know a good amount like i said. i have done a lot of work on that car (clutch, tranny rebuid, tranny mounts, clutch fan, intake gasket and sent the intake to be re plained, carb work and tunning, valve cover gaskets, and basic work like oil and stuff so please dont treat me like im an average teen that bought a fast car to be cool. I love cars, i have been working on them since i was small there are just some specific questions about them i have.
Tie-355, 17yo and taking on an 85 TA, I'm PROUD of you!
Your automotive knowledge, skills and fun will grow in the years to come, enjoy! Your motor sounds awesome and I'm sure will perform and represent you well, hang in there with us, we just get a little cranky here and there.
Roller rockers don't make it a roller engine-----
Welcome to CHR:
Good on ya for wrenching on your own ride! I know I was lucky to have pizza and gas money when I was 17. A couple things to help us know what you've really got:
"...i know its a roller motor because i have seen the roller rockers when i replaced the valve cover gaskets..." you do know that when we speak about "a roller engine" the reference is to the lifters - not the rockers? There are many a flat tappet cam engines that have roller tip rockers - which is what you have indicated seeing replacing your valve cover gaskets.
I'm also curious why you had the intake "re plained" - I'm assuming that you mean milled - but for what reason?
I like the sound - but agree with others here that you'll need to dig a bit deeper and start providing some engine and head numbers to allow us to help you out.
Best,
Glenn
i know that the rockers them selfs dont make it a roller motor. i was just stating that i saw the roller rockers when i took the valve covers off. i know that that in its self doesn't make it a roller motor but most of the time that indicates that someone went to the trouble of doing the rockers which usually means the lifters were done to. and as for the milling (i was just called it re plaining) it was because the clutch fan had failed and over heated the motor slightly prior to me buying it and because of the slight over heat there was a slight anti freeze leak between the intake and the block so i decided while fixing the clutch fan to replace the intake gasket and to mill the intake flat again just to make sure it didn't warp at all.
If you pulled the intake you should have been able to tell if it was a roller motor or not., I smell a rat.
Hot enough to warp a intake? what about the heads!
I think we have an enthusiastic young man that is interested in cars and american muscle. Not as many of them around as there was when I was his age. I can remember be tutored by my Dad as a young lad, him teaching and explaining things, boy did I make my mistakes, but he seldom lost his patience. Sure would be nice to see more young people getting involved in our sport. Maybe we could have more patience...
I taught my 2 year old grandsom how to ride a tricycle today---------next week how to weld, and then we are going to put a full roller, pratt-whitney 985 radial engine with 6 blade prop on it-its one of those plastic Harley Davidson trikes with a liftable seat with a storage area under it-----genuine full roller plastic wheels with those fancy snap on cap retainers. He's only 2 years old now but will be 3 by the end of June 2016, and he fully understands how to use a 3/8 reversable rachet wrench. The engine is a crate engine from a salvage yard and comes with everything except the spark plugs-there are 2 per cylinder and altho they cost over $70 per plug, I think we can run it on just one per cylinder with one of those red plastic plugs in the other hole. I'll try to post an U tube vid of it as soon as the weather warms up and we can get it outside
WOW, ridicule, insult, disrespect…
I was hoping the car community was a little better then this. Out of all the people i have talked to about cars not once have i had some one disrespect me so much because they assume things. everything i said is 100% true if you believe me sure if you dont what ever but please don't disrespect me by calling me a poser. Do you have any idea how much i paid for that car, the work i put into it, the money i put into it, the time i have used up instead of being with friends to clean it, work on it or to go for a drive. How much i have to work to be able to pay for it. I love my car. so why would i go and make up lies about it when i simply wanted to know if you guys could help me out. so please don't disrespect me any more.