This is the regulator I use when tig welding tubing or other things that need to be backside purged
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This is the regulator I use when tig welding tubing or other things that need to be backside purged
Ok. That's slick. Is that the Smith regulator Jerry?
David
I don't remember--I got it from TigDepot and I think Lincoln or someone else also has one now--I use the air hose disconnect to the tubing plug and run the secong argon hose thru the water valve on my welder so it only adds argon when welder is triggered--My torch cooler runs full time so that let me use the H2O valve instead of a free flowing stream of argon--much cheaper that way
I have some friends that use a second bottle and regulator and just let the gas flow--that is more expensive than a strip bar
Went and looked---Gentec regulator---it is basicly just a standard regulator with a tee and two flow meters--
what allows its use is using the water valve on the welding machine to control on/off of the second hose
Nice setup!!! Thanks for the info, sure beats my Mickey Mouse setup!!!!!!:o:o:o
Hey Jerry, and the rest of the TIGgers-- what filler rod do you use with moly?????
1/16 and 3/32!!!!!!
I think its er70s2 ????? maybe
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I'm not TIG proficient, but I looked at some data and it supports what Jerry said dead on,
Quote:
For example, more rigid welds would be best made with an ER80S-D2 classification filler rod (due to its higher tensile strength), while an ER70S-2 classification filler rod would be better suited for welds requiring more flexibility or ductility.
Oh poo. I don't have the torch cooler. It's a cheap (yeah right :eek:) hobby version Miller TIG. It does have the foot pedal but I'm not sure how I'd incorporate that into a switchable on /off valve. I'll do some digging. Maybe switch a simple gas valve from the relay for the foot pedal. Very interesting.
David
or maybe a toggle switch on the torch going to the control valve????Quote:
Originally Posted by Stovebolter
I don't under stand, I would probably have to see the set up working or a diagram of how it works.
But I am not a tig welder either, that will be my next machine though.
My biggest problem is remembering to put on my steel toe boots, the little
beads of hot metal hurt when they go thru the tops of your tennis shoe's!!!
HE! HE! Kurt
i had a snap on scratch start i you did heat control on the machine DC only not to good , my other machines had a foot pedal this is ok but not to good for over head . i have heat control on the torch head i had air cold torch for many years i was running tap water threw my liquid torch . but now i have the cooler set up now work s the same air cold torch is abit bigger for the amps you can see my machine to the left :)
i weld tig all the time no sparks from tig... Zero .... before some smart ass starts any thing about my mishap :) .i was running a 7018 1/4 rod @ 250 amps yes they throw sparks :(
here's some of the machine and how hoses are hooked up
Oh--a welding test from 1960s ---
Here you can see front of the machine I use with this system
then close up of lower front panel which identifies whats behind the cover
Two red lines are the purge circuit I have plumbed thru the water valve
Yellow grd lead
small black hose argon gas out of valve to torch head
bigger black hose is argon supply from tank
power lug with water cooling line hooked to lead(the welding lead is copper cable inside a hose with water running thru it to torch head(cools cable and torch handle/head)
How do you like the Coolmate 3 Jerry???? Not sure I would ever be tiggin' enough to justify water cooled---or do I just not know what all the water cooling does?????
some more from around the welder---more pics of that FAA test and a can of solar flux Pat spoke about--
some of the various wires--steel, alum, stainless, inconel, titaniam