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06-05-2011 10:32 AM #1
Thanks Bob. Roger sent me a PM too, telling me how to find previous posts. Once you guys explained how it was pretty simple.
Pat, thanks for that info on the rings. Is it preferable to buy the ones you have to file to fit over the ones that you don't? I think I will buy a ring filer and do them with that. I saw them using one on one of the car shows on TV and it didn't look super expensive, but it was better than using a hand file.
Today when Dan gets off work we are meeting the guy who is selling the bare 455 block. Sure hope it looks good and if it does I'll drop it off at the machine shop tomorrow.
DonLast edited by Itoldyouso; 06-05-2011 at 10:58 AM.
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06-05-2011 11:06 AM #2
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06-05-2011 11:14 AM #3
KD Tools makes a ring fileing tool part # 870. This is the one that I've used. They can be had for about $70.00 or so. You'll also need to get a ring squareing tool to put rings squaely in bore for accurate measurements. Also if you havn't done this before, I suggest practicing on some used rings before cutting on your new rings.Last edited by sbcguy; 06-05-2011 at 11:26 AM.
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06-05-2011 12:55 PM #4
Steve, he (and I ) are a little bummed about having to pull the body off and build a new motor, but it is what it is.
I think you guys are right about tight rings breaking, and maybe in the next week or so we will have it torn down for a looksee.
sbcguy, that KD tool is exactly what I am looking for, and will pick up the squaring tool as well......good advice. Sure beats the hand file and using a piston to square them up as I have always done.
Don
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06-05-2011 01:32 PM #5
Those ring filers are pretty slick. Found the KD one mentioned above here for around 58 bucks, hope this helps.
Save on KD Tools 870 at ToolTopia.com"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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06-06-2011 05:28 AM #6
I would tear it apart before anything else to see what happened. I've used plasma ceramic rings with good success.
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06-06-2011 09:21 AM #7
Every set of pistons I ever used when checked would be around +/- .002" varience in diameter. For example a set of 4" pistons lets say +.030 over would actually measure in a set of eight from 4.029" to 4.031". Sometimes the varience in diameter was more. Too much more and we would order other pistons and send back the ones too far out of spec. Basically make up our own set of pistons within .002" tolerance. This is why we used to bore the block to fit the pistons and file fit the rings to get the correct gap.
Heres a chart from Sealed Power / Speed Pro giving reccomended end gaps per application.
RING END GAP RECOMMENDATION GUIDE (FOR 4.000 INCH BORE)
Speed Pro Top Rings
(ductile iron, 4" bore) 4.000" Example Minimum Gap Factor
Moderate Performance .016 - .018 (.004 per inch of bore diameter)
Drag Racing, Oval Track .018 - .020 (.0045 per inch of bore diameter)
Nitrous Oxide - Street .020 - .022 (.005 per inch of bore diameter)
Nitrous Oxide - Drag .028 - .030 (.007 per inch of bore diameter)
Supercharged .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)
Speed Pro 2nd Rings
(cast Iron, 4" bore) 4.000" Example Minimum Gap Factor
Moderate Performance .020 - .022 (.005 per inch of bore diameter)
Drag Racing, Oval Track .022 - .024 (.0055 per inch of bore diameter)
Nitrous Oxide - Street .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)
Nitrous Oxide - Drag .028 - .030 (.007 per inch of bore diameter)
Supercharged .024 - .026 (.006 per inch of bore diameter)
Notice: Most of the second ring gap recommendations are larger than the top rings. Recent testing has proven that a
larger second gap increases the top ring's ability to seal combustion. This larger "escape" path prevents inter-ring
pressure from building up and lifting the top ring off the piston allowing combustion to get by. Many engine builders
have reported lower blow-by and horsepower gains at the upper RPM ranges with wider second ring gaps. Also,
almost every new car made is using this inter-ring pressure reduction method to lower blow-by and emissions and to
increase engine outputLast edited by sbcguy; 06-06-2011 at 09:30 AM.
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06-06-2011 10:28 AM #8
Don i've used one of these Speedway type for years without any problems.
This one works good, i also have the electric version.
Precision Piston Ring Filer - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed ShopIts aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.
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06-05-2011 02:34 PM #9
you should not just think a set of drop in rings have the right end gap .many times they do not...... but its better to file off 002 to 004 set of drop in rings them to buy file fit rings . you need to check end gap.... ring tools are not much money for many years i used hose clamps and clamp a file sicking off one of the arms off a engine stand and file many many sets this way.... .i use a adjustable square set it at one inch then check ring in the wall in 3 spots then check your end gap i use a fine stone to break all sharp spots off the ring after filing them .if you fail to do this you will phuck up the cylinder wallsIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-05-2011 07:37 PM #10
Pat, when we get to the point of installing rings I'll be back with more questions for you guys.
Thanks,
Don
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06-06-2011 11:52 AM #11
even if it does`nt clean up 100 % it will still be ok .. my 351 has a few cylinder scratches and run just fine .. 98% seal is good alsoiv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?
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06-06-2011 12:03 PM #12
Really? When you run your finger or fingernail across the scoring they seem pretty deep. I have no feel for if that equates to more than 20 thou, but they sure seem deeper than that. But I am just guessing and your suggestions might be correct........I sure hope so, it would save a lot of work (and money).
I'll run that all by the machinist for sure. Thanks Jerry and Hoss.
Don
I would gladly send you a 6 pack of your favorite brew, Jerry, if that is the case.





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