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Thread: Electric fan control
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    bulldogcountry1's Avatar
    bulldogcountry1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Looks like I just need to get an adjustable fan switch with radiator drop-in sensor. With those, don't you just turn the dial down, heat up the engine to desired running temp, then turn the dial until the fan comes on?

    I also have a manual override switch, but I never have to use it.
    Andy

    My project build video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iubRRojY9qM

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
    Do you have underdrive pulleys on the waterpump or alternator??and what is the ampereage you electric fan draw?
    No underdrive pulleys, and have not measured the actual amperage draw on my fan at low/high speeds. Also have not experienced any elevated temperatures in the first 1000 miles of shakedown driving. The highest temps have been coming off the blacktop, dropping to 5-10mph for the last mile of gravel back to the house, and then not above 210F.

    Quote Originally Posted by bulldogcountry1 View Post
    Looks like I just need to get an adjustable fan switch with radiator drop-in sensor. With those, don't you just turn the dial down, heat up the engine to desired running temp, then turn the dial until the fan comes on?
    I also have a manual override switch, but I never have to use it.
    Bulldogcountry1,
    Sorry to have gotten so far off track on this thread. I believe you will be just fine with that setup. There are a lot of stand alone fan controls out there, some come with relays and some don't, and the adjustment method varies with the package but you're right on target - that's the way the SPAL package is adjusted. You'll want a relay, and like Jerry said above, switching the ground side is best, with a circuit breaker on the hot feed rather than a fuse. Other than that, you've got lots of information on sensor location, shroud holes, air flow and control theory to consider as you put your system together. Like Don said so well:
    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    That's the nice thing about this car hobby. There are so many different ways to do things and so many diverse opinions of the "right" way to do them...........but somehow the cars seem to still go down the road and function as they should.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    roadster32's Avatar
    roadster32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Some electric fans can pull 30 amps on startup but then drop to between 10-15 amps.



    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    No underdrive pulleys, and have not measured the actual amperage draw on my fan at low/high speeds. Also have not experienced any elevated temperatures in the first 1000 miles of shakedown driving. The highest temps have been coming off the blacktop, dropping to 5-10mph for the last mile of gravel back to the house, and then not above 210F.


    Bulldogcountry1,
    Sorry to have gotten so far off track on this thread. I believe you will be just fine with that setup. There are a lot of stand alone fan controls out there, some come with relays and some don't, and the adjustment method varies with the package but you're right on target - that's the way the SPAL package is adjusted. You'll want a relay, and like Jerry said above, switching the ground side is best, with a circuit breaker on the hot feed rather than a fuse. Other than that, you've got lots of information on sensor location, shroud holes, air flow and control theory to consider as you put your system together. Like Don said so well:
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

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