Thread: Electric fan control

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I did not have a port in the radiator so that was not an easy option for me. I'm using a SPAL controller which gives the flexibility to program your "fan on" point, and the "fan high speed" set point independently. I have three ports, one on each side of the intake on the front water jacket runner, and a third on my water neck downstream of the thermostat. My ECU temp sensor was pre-installed in one of the intake runner ports, and I used the opposite port for my SPAL fan controller sensor. My water neck port holds my dash indicator sensor. My thought is that I want to see the blended temp coming out of the thermostat, while the ports right at the head may be slightly hotter (not much, but maybe a few degrees). Running a 195 T-stat I have mine programmed for fan on at 200F and fan to high speed at 215F. SPAL recomends a 15F to 20F differential, so I used 15F.

On yours, you say you bought a 185F Fan On temp switch, and you're concerned that the fan runs all the time. You did not say what T-stat you're running, but if it is 185F or above (which is likely) then it makes sense your fan runs continuously - the T-stat is controlling to a temp at or above your temp switch setting. I like the idea of a controller vs hard switches that have approximate "on" set points and built in dead band for "off" (like maybe 185F on, but must drop to 175F to turn off).

The first pic below is the drivers side intake port, with the ECU sensor; and the second is the sensor in the water neck feeding the dash indicator.