Thread: Wiring Harness Terminations

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Roger now i think about it i havn't had to splice anywhere that i can remember, earthwise i like to run seperate earths back to a earth buzz bar that is bolted to the bolts that hold the body to the frame.

I use the Rebel wiring kits these days, they are good and so much quicker to install than making up my own like i used to do.

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve/Don,
So how do you make running splices, say for a ground wire that needs to pick up several components, then run to a body/chassis ground; or a power feed to a GM headlight switch that also needs to hit a second spade terminal on the same switch? I have not seen a "Y" crimp connection? One thought is to strip back 1/2" of insulation on the main run, tightly twist your branch wire around that bare section, and securely heat shrink it. No solder joint then.... just wondering what you use?

Originally Posted by roadster32

Roger now i think about it i havn't had to splice anywhere that i can remember, earthwise i like to run seperate earths back to a earth buzz bar that is bolted to the bolts that hold the body to the frame.

I use the Rebel wiring kits these days, they are good and so much quicker to install than making up my own like i used to do.

"Buzz bar" is not a term I am familiar with (google gives some interesting result). Is that an earthing/grounding bar, like a threaded brass bar or a terminal block hooked to a body bolt?

Originally Posted by Mike52

Roger, you could use this http://www.spliseal.com/products.html.
Mike

Thanks for that link, Mike. Interesting - kind of looks like black hot glue with a mold set, but is likely more than that. Looks especially good for exposed joints, like trailer wiring?

Originally Posted by buzz4041

I would not just twist a wire around the other as you suggested as this type of connection is just not satisfactory. I would mount a ground terminal block and individualy bring your wires to it and terminate 1 by 1. Run a # 10 to feed the block. For the power circuits you can also use a quality terminal block with a jumper bar that that will tie them together and make it a common supply. Just don't overload the circuit. For the one offs they do make what is called piggy back terminals for things like the switches you refered to. Wiring techniques like this will provide you with a quality installation and if you ever need to do some troubleshooting or additions it sure makes it nice later. Check out http://www.tnb.com/contractor/docs/stakon.pdf this site for all your needs. Some of the best stuff in the industry.

Buzz,
Thanks for the comments, link and advice. The twisted wire approach came from the manager at one of the local electrical supply houses and seemed like a good idea to reduce the number of conductors in the bundle, but based on comments here I think that the spliced ground would be a headache later. I especially appreciate the comment about troubleshooting - chasing a bad ground can be a big enough headache without introducing splice joints. I also like your common supply approach. Last night I was sorting through the final separation and grouping of wires, and found that I have five devices that require direct battery feed (fuse block #10, EFI ECU, Spal Fan Controller, Vintage Air unit, and Alternator Bypass connection). My battery is tucked up under the dash and I have bulkhead connections through the body/firewall down beside the starter, but five ring lugs would be a lot, and likely makes that cable to bulkhead connection questionable. One feed to a TB will be lots better.

Status - I have the trunk wired and secured (need to revisit the grounds for lights), headlight circuits ready to pull through the frame, and all other wires segregated and tagged. The only thing slowing me down now is that the pretty firewall bulkhead port got backordered for two days, and now will not be here until Monday or Tuesday keeping me from punching my firewall/body hole for the engine sensors, fan, alternator and starter circuits. I still have plenty to do - mount under dash courtesy lamps, door jamb switches, pretty up the back dash wiring harness with wire ties vs the split plastic coil Painless used, etc, etc. I am going to have a much better finished product because of the tips, talents, advice and direction shared here.
Thanks guys & gals.

Yes its a piece of brass bar attached to a chassis bolt Roger.

Originally Posted by rspears

"Buzz bar" is not a term I am familiar with (google gives some interesting result). Is that an earthing/grounding bar, like a threaded brass bar or a terminal block hooked to a body bolt?



Thanks for that link, Mike. Interesting - kind of looks like black hot glue with a mold set, but is likely more than that. Looks especially good for exposed joints, like trailer wiring?


Buzz,
Thanks for the comments, link and advice. The twisted wire approach came from the manager at one of the local electrical supply houses and seemed like a good idea to reduce the number of conductors in the bundle, but based on comments here I think that the spliced ground would be a headache later. I especially appreciate the comment about troubleshooting - chasing a bad ground can be a big enough headache without introducing splice joints. I also like your common supply approach. Last night I was sorting through the final separation and grouping of wires, and found that I have five devices that require direct battery feed (fuse block #10, EFI ECU, Spal Fan Controller, Vintage Air unit, and Alternator Bypass connection). My battery is tucked up under the dash and I have bulkhead connections through the body/firewall down beside the starter, but five ring lugs would be a lot, and likely makes that cable to bulkhead connection questionable. One feed to a TB will be lots better.

Status - I have the trunk wired and secured (need to revisit the grounds for lights), headlight circuits ready to pull through the frame, and all other wires segregated and tagged. The only thing slowing me down now is that the pretty firewall bulkhead port got backordered for two days, and now will not be here until Monday or Tuesday keeping me from punching my firewall/body hole for the engine sensors, fan, alternator and starter circuits. I still have plenty to do - mount under dash courtesy lamps, door jamb switches, pretty up the back dash wiring harness with wire ties vs the split plastic coil Painless used, etc, etc. I am going to have a much better finished product because of the tips, talents, advice and direction shared here.
Thanks guys & gals.