Thread: Wiring Harness Terminations

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Roger - what type of wiring system do you have? If it is already permanently terminated at the fuse block, then you probably should do a full layout before you do the final terminations at the powered device. I'm not real fond of them as sometimes it's a real PITA to make a run with all of those extraneous wires and the fact that sometime it is just plain easier to feed a wire the other direction or change a route. Since my block was behind the seat, it had other considerations, but mostly how to route the wires without being able to see them - I would do it different another time - but, it's done, everything works...... I did one system at a time, checking continuity with each by my powered tester/light. I then after getting a system in, turned on the master switch to check that entire system just to make sure. I used lots of masking tape as Dave S suggested and several hundred cable ties doing, redoing and re-redoing ad nauseum.



One rerouting shown above (i.e. re - re - re - redoing)

I am just going through this right now, installing a Rebel 9 + 3 set up in my 27. I spent one night just sorting through the harness and eliminating what wires my car didn't need, like radio, a/c, heater, and third brake light. Then I coiled up the remaining wires and marked them with masking tape as to their purpose (ie, rt frt turn signal, etc)

After that was done I decided on where the fuse block would go. Dan talked me into making a hinged panel to mount it, like he did, and I am glad that I took his suggestion. The underdash area in a 27 is very limited and having it swing down is making it easier and gets it out of the way while running wires.

Once it was mounted I started by running the main 10 gauge red wire back to the starter solenoid so that I had power to the block. Then I ran the wires to the ignition switch so it was live. As I continued to run wires I would temporarily wire tie them into the bundle, using 4 inch wire ties. These are cheap and are going to be cut off as I run more and more wires into that same harness, but they keep things organized as I work.

So to answer your original question, yes, I run one wire at a time, cut it to the correct length, and then terminate it with the correct end. I am also using Painless plugs in line this time so that I can unplug the wires in the event I ever have to remove the body, rather than having to cut or unscrew the wires at their ends.

Don

Originally Posted by IC2

Roger - what type of wiring system do you have? If it is already permanently terminated at the fuse block, then you probably should do a full layout before you do the final terminations at the powered device. I'm not real fond of them as sometimes it's a real PITA to make a run with all of those extraneous wires and the fact that sometime it is just plain easier to feed a wire the other direction or change a route. Since my block was behind the seat, it had other considerations, but mostly how to route the wires without being able to see them - I would do it different another time - but, it's done, everything works...... I did one system at a time, checking continuity with each by my powered tester/light. I then after getting a system in, turned on the master switch to check that entire system just to make sure. I used lots of masking tape as Dave S suggested and several hundred cable ties doing, redoing and re-redoing ad nauseum.
One rerouting shown above (i.e. re - re - re - redoing)

Dave W,
E-Z Wiring, 21 circuit pre-terminated fuse block. I have the fuse block mounted up high behind the dash, driver's side which I may regret in the future, but it is done and it eliminates a large number of wires on the floor. With the EFI ECU I have several fuse block circuits that will not be used, or which can be used for other purposes in the future, like the dedicated fuel pump fuse/wire - my pump is wired direct from the engine harness, controlled by the ECU. I also have circuits for power locks and power antenna that I don't have and likely will never have. Like HWorrell suggests, I will cut those a bit shorter and coil them for future use rather than cut them close to the block as suggested by E-Z Wire.