Thread: Figuring out fuel line size?

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Stainless would be more fatigue and abasion resistant then aluminum. I've used both, never had problems with either... Did have an instance of an aluminum line leaking, looked like a piece of debris off the track had bounce up and hit it or something.... Most important issue with either is good mounting of the line, keeping it away from an place where exhaust heat could become an issue. I use the hard line along the frame rails, and a piece of braided wherever flex or movment could be an issue....

I get stainless from a company called Cool Tubes, or similar--don't remember, the invoices are filed away out in the garage someplace.... The upkeep and appearance is sure easy with stainless!

I've also seen a lot of guys using the push-lok hoses instead of braided....probably a bit less money, but I just don't like rubber hoses under the car on anything....

Never had any luck with Holley pumps. Had several of them, none lasted six months. One caught fire!

I use an AN 10 line from a tank similar to yours to the Holley blue mounted on the frame. Then AN 10 up to the trans. It goes outside the frame past the bellhousing to a bulkhead AN 10. Here I go to AN 8 flex to the regulator. One side of the regulator has the pressure gage the other side has AN 8 to the carb distribution block. From here it splits to AN 6 to each 750 DP. All these lines are aluminum and flared at each connection. There are a couple of unions in the lines for ease of installation. I use line clamps where ever necessary. This works great on a SBC with a 6-71 blower. I have over 1000 miles on it in the last 4 months and there has not been a single leak or problem from the very first day.

My come back on the fatigue issue is that the very same stuff is used in aircraft every day and they don't have problems so why should we??

Even braided will deteriorate and it will be under the braid so you won't see it till its too late if you do want to use braided use the teflon version as its much more reliable but doesn't tke a tight radius.

Originally Posted by roadster32

Even braided will deteriorate and it will be under the braid so you won't see it till its too late if you do want to use braided use the teflon version as its much more reliable but doesn't tke a tight radius.

I agree - Dago has to do his research on which one to use, but AeroQuip has a good one and the brand I used for any flex lines except brakes (they were DOT Russel's) for my car. Longacre has the Teflon as well

Dago
There was a great thread on here on how to cut braided stainless line. If you don't want to spend a fortune on cutters, one member posted using a chisle, hammer, and aluminum block under it. I was extremely skeptical, until I watched the video and did it myself.
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
Also the thread itself had tons of info
here is the link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ting+stainless

I use the cutters from Speedway $19.99 cheap as chips and work perfectly.

Originally Posted by stovens

Dago
There was a great thread on here on how to cut braided stainless line. If you don't want to spend a fortune on cutters, one member posted using a chisle, hammer, and aluminum block under it. I was extremely skeptical, until I watched the video and did it myself.
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
Also the thread itself had tons of info
here is the link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ting+stainless