Thread: Need a suggestion

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Originally Posted by NE57

Polyester resin does not stick, long term, that well to steel, regardless of how well you prep the surface. Initially it feels like a great bond but repeated expansion cycles will break that bond. That's when the moisture thing starts. Also the cured resin bond is not very shock resistant, so all those vibrations from an actual driven car will cause you problems. First hand experience.

This book sounds great, I've been thinking the same thing. I already know how I would do the outside surface(being that I do a similar process on small scale items), its the inside support structure of the finished piece that I need help with.

Flip-up front end anyone?

well polyester resin is body filler .i did say epoxy you be better of with .. a vette is a steel bird cage with fiber glass glue to it .your splitting hairs .i did say steel to steel works better. i have done small repairs 12 by 12 done with glass still holding on pitted floor pans over 10 years for cars that get used on nice days . and live in mich . that car shakes alot with a solid mounted 750+hp engine . come over and you pull the repair off i will let you if you can every thing can fail in time your thinking and mine may not be far off. i am not willing to do this repair on a out side body panle . i am on a pitted floor pan. on a car that other then some pits has a strong floor seat mounts cross braces etc if you can buy steel then do so cut out the bad parts weld in new . i told Vara4 that .glass it is a patch ..but can work. the hook up on blasted steel with pitted small holes the hook up is the best your going ever going to get . on stuff that is not pitted thru no i would not use glass .oil base primer works fine for that job or pores