Thread: Need a suggestion

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Okay, now that I have the garage space to experiment, I've been considering trying to make some replacement body parts out of fiberglass. I used to work with a guy that had some experience in making one off glass parts (he worked at a boat repair shop) and gave me a quicky 15 minute explanation on how to use an original panel to create a mold for the fiberglass replacement part.

What I'd like to find are some "how to" books to read to see if I'm getting in way over my head on this. Any ideas on some titles to look for specifically?

Here's one by Forbes Aird delivered to your door for $12.80 from Plumcircle. He's a credible author and thirteen bucks ain't gonna break the bank.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=new

Did you read this book Tech?
I need to learn about fibor glass too.
I want to put fibor glass over the new sheet metal floor
to keep it from rust on the inside again.
The bottom will be painted.
Plus I think the fibor glass will help with the noise.

look up west system on the web they show jobs done with there stuff

Originally Posted by vara4

I want to put fibor glass over the new sheet metal floor to keep it from rust on the inside again. The bottom will be painted.
Plus I think the fibor glass will help with the noise.

Not to hijack the thread, but I don't think this is a good idea. There are lots of coatings made for this purpose, and fiberglass atop metal is going to trap any moisture that gets inside, and your panel will then rust from the inside out, out of sight and with no way to know it is happening until you see the rust bubbles. Any flex will tend to crack the thin glass coating, then any surface moisture can wick and be trapped. Just my $0.02 on the method. How about lizard skin or a good paint?

Fiberglass over a metal floor is a bad idea. It will trap and hold moisture, making it worse, not better. As Rspears said, use paint, por15 or Lizard skin.

fiberglass is WAY easy. That is why you got a 15 minute course.. because that is about all there is to it.

I can pass on a couple tips for ya though:

VENITLATION. very important, those resin fumes will burn your eyes and lungs.

rubber gloves.. keep a box handy. Change them out as often as you like. Makes things lot easier when you don't have fuzzy fingers.

mixing containters: I like to cut the side out of a quart oil jug for small jobs, or cut the side out of an antifreeze bottle for big jobs. You can even re-use your mix container. just let the resin dry, and flex the bottle, the old resin will pop right out.

Bondo glass kit, recommends soaking the glass in resin, then applying. I don't like that method. Too messy, and the glass will stretch. I like to use a disposable ( dollar store ) paint brush, and brush down the area with resin. Then, lay the glass down on the sticky area. For covering holes, window screen works well. Otherwise the glass will sag. Then I use the bondo spreader to apply the resin. Easy stuff.

Of course, it sounds like you want to remove the glass from the panel after it's formed. To do that, you will have to use some form release spray, wax, tin foil, or whatever. I've even heard of people putting air bungs in the form, and then using compressed air to release the form.

if its sealed you will not see moisture .the epoxy and glass will work just fine over steel he is fixing hole and missing parts that would not fix ez ? i think that what he said if clean good seal from both sides if holes or missing parts .have done it many times . as far is water they do make boats out of glass and do flex ? i would not do a glass fix on the out side of a steel car the glass/ resin moves at a dif rate then steel in the sun =heat you will see i line . steel to steel is better but for what vara4 is going to do it will work good. one thing i have seen and did at one time is over use of resin . the resin is in it self not very strong it the cloth or mat so you only use a small amont to wet the cloth or mat. all body filler and some primer fillers are base off resins the same make up as the cheaper fiber resins and they stick to the out side of cars. the epoxys are up to the job like the west systems if prep is right. it well make a good sound repair that will last for manys years if done right

Mercedes used a type of fiberglass on the driver side front floorboard of the 123 chassis cars from the factory..... don't know why just the front driver side but, I parted an '83, and it had it, and my dad's '83 has it.. ( carpet is easy to remove, it's the floor mats )

Originally Posted by vara4

Did you read this book Tech?
I need to learn about fibor glass too.
I want to put fibor glass over the new sheet metal floor
to keep it from rust on the inside again.
The bottom will be painted.
Plus I think the fibor glass will help with the noise.

Have not read this book, was suggesting it because of the author. Have read Numbers 4 and 6 of his books on this list.....
http://www.bestwebbuys.com/Forbes_Ai...b-authorsearch

Okay, thanks for the info. My plan is to start small, glove box door, kick panels, etc. to experiment and see how things turn out. If I can manage to make stuff like that without gluing myself to the garage floor with resin, I'll try bigger parts like bumpers and body panels.

The one tool I'd probably buy first seems to be a dedicated gel coat gun that uses the disposable paper cups.

Polyester resin does not stick, long term, that well to steel, regardless of how well you prep the surface. Initially it feels like a great bond but repeated expansion cycles will break that bond. That's when the moisture thing starts. Also the cured resin bond is not very shock resistant, so all those vibrations from an actual driven car will cause you problems. First hand experience.

This book sounds great, I've been thinking the same thing. I already know how I would do the outside surface(being that I do a similar process on small scale items), its the inside support structure of the finished piece that I need help with.

Flip-up front end anyone?

Originally Posted by NE57

Polyester resin does not stick, long term, that well to steel, regardless of how well you prep the surface. Initially it feels like a great bond but repeated expansion cycles will break that bond. That's when the moisture thing starts. Also the cured resin bond is not very shock resistant, so all those vibrations from an actual driven car will cause you problems. First hand experience.

This book sounds great, I've been thinking the same thing. I already know how I would do the outside surface(being that I do a similar process on small scale items), its the inside support structure of the finished piece that I need help with.

Flip-up front end anyone?

well polyester resin is body filler .i did say epoxy you be better of with .. a vette is a steel bird cage with fiber glass glue to it .your splitting hairs .i did say steel to steel works better. i have done small repairs 12 by 12 done with glass still holding on pitted floor pans over 10 years for cars that get used on nice days . and live in mich . that car shakes alot with a solid mounted 750+hp engine . come over and you pull the repair off i will let you if you can every thing can fail in time your thinking and mine may not be far off. i am not willing to do this repair on a out side body panle . i am on a pitted floor pan. on a car that other then some pits has a strong floor seat mounts cross braces etc if you can buy steel then do so cut out the bad parts weld in new . i told Vara4 that .glass it is a patch ..but can work. the hook up on blasted steel with pitted small holes the hook up is the best your going ever going to get . on stuff that is not pitted thru no i would not use glass .oil base primer works fine for that job or pores