Thread: pulling a 48 ford stering wheel

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Thank you all for the advice. It would seem there was no set way of doing this back in 48 without the chance of incuring damage to the steering box or wheel. In 49 they changed to a straight spline I believe, and some wheels I've seen have bolt holes for wheel pullers, which may be newer wheels like the reproduction ones availible for this truck.
Frisco you wrote
"Using a brass or aluminum punch held against the end of the steering shaft, give the punch a good hard wrap with a hammer. This will "shock" the tapered sections apart."
Do you mean using a large diameter punch that sits on the nut, or a thin diameter punch that goes down into the hollowed out section of the shaft, inside and below the nut itself?
Hope that makes sense. Thanks.

Originally Posted by stovens

Frisco you wrote
"Using a brass or aluminum punch held against the end of the steering shaft, give the punch a good hard wrap with a hammer. This will "shock" the tapered sections apart."
Do you mean using a large diameter punch that sits on the nut, or a thin diameter punch that goes down into the hollowed out section of the shaft, inside and below the nut itself?
Hope that makes sense. Thanks.

I actually use a piece of copper flat stock that is 1/2" X 1" X 6" long. Over the years it has become somewhat mushroomed on the ends, but still works well. I used the term "punch" because that would be a more familiar term to everyone rather than saying to use a piece of flat stock.

The one end of the "punch" should be flush against the flat surface of the nut and steering shaft end when being struck. You do NOT want anything in the hollow center section of the steering shaft when striking. The reason the nut should be flush with the end of the shaft is to prevent the shaft from mushrooming when being struck. If that occurs the threaded portion will be messed up and in need of thread repair.

A couple of good whacks should do the job.