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Thread: pulling a 48 ford stering wheel
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Frisco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Canton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    46

    Quote Originally Posted by stovens
    Frisco you wrote
    "Using a brass or aluminum punch held against the end of the steering shaft, give the punch a good hard wrap with a hammer. This will "shock" the tapered sections apart."
    Do you mean using a large diameter punch that sits on the nut, or a thin diameter punch that goes down into the hollowed out section of the shaft, inside and below the nut itself?
    Hope that makes sense. Thanks.
    I actually use a piece of copper flat stock that is 1/2" X 1" X 6" long. Over the years it has become somewhat mushroomed on the ends, but still works well. I used the term "punch" because that would be a more familiar term to everyone rather than saying to use a piece of flat stock.

    The one end of the "punch" should be flush against the flat surface of the nut and steering shaft end when being struck. You do NOT want anything in the hollow center section of the steering shaft when striking. The reason the nut should be flush with the end of the shaft is to prevent the shaft from mushrooming when being struck. If that occurs the threaded portion will be messed up and in need of thread repair.

    A couple of good whacks should do the job.
    Last edited by Frisco; 11-24-2008 at 09:05 AM.

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