Hybrid View
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11-15-2008 07:57 PM #1
it's obviously those leaves in the picture. They shouldn't have been in the clutch.
* sorry * just kidding.
Those clutch slave units are notoriously difficult to bleed..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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11-15-2008 08:15 PM #2
Those throwout bearings do turn all the time, if you look at it, there's no way for it to be pulled back away from the fingers.
Are you sure you have the proper combination of parts? How far does the bearing actually move when the pedal is pressed? Does the pedal feel spongy, or does the bearing not move the same speed every time? The last two things would indicate that there's still air in the system somewhere.
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11-15-2008 09:27 PM #3
Wow, it rides the clutch just setting there........
Ya I'm going to check the parts store to make sure I've got the right parts.
I'll measure the travel length, how much does it need, is there a adjustment somewhere for it?
It feels like it's only working 1/2 inch from floor and no amount of pumping will bring it up.
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11-16-2008 06:37 AM #4
Try hooking your toe under the pedal and lifting it up. Some hydraulic clutches are adjusted that way. There is no other adjustment. If that doesn't do it, your clutch may be wrong, not thick enough from the flywheel to the fingers.
When bleeding it, reach in and pry the bearing away from the fingers to expel all the air. That's the trouble with that setup, there's no way to get the slave cylinder completely collapsed with it all together.
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11-16-2008 06:57 AM #5
bleeding a ford clutch
These units are usually a throwaway, the only way to bleed it is by tystraping it all the way in the return position, when all air is bled out reach in and cut and remove the tie strap:
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11-16-2008 04:32 PM #6
So without pulling it out how do I tie strapping to it? Do you mean colapsing the spring like I did in the picture?
Originally Posted by mekanic
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11-16-2008 06:17 PM #7
Yes mine looks like that. And I also found that same Site and printed out the instructions. I think I'll try it this way before doing the other ones.
Originally Posted by DennyW
Hey thanks everyone for you help.
I can't go get my T coupe from Dave Severson on the 28th without my truck. I don't want to pull the car trailer with my wife's mini van, she really gave me the evil eye when I suggested it.
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11-16-2008 04:17 PM #8
The guy had the Flywheel ground, how much I don't know, I'll check tomorrow.
Originally Posted by R Pope
The pedal comes up all the way now after they bleed it the third time so there is nowhere to pull it up from.
I don't understand how the slave works, in my third picture with me pulling it back against the spring..... what pushes it forward? I saw it move but don't know what does it.
I'll try pulling it back and bleeding it again.
I've been looking up articles on the net and the seem to conflect with each other.... some say don't Bench Bleed the Master and others say do it. One said to put it in a vise with the connecting hose on it and put a small object in the Check Valve to keep it open. Place hose into reservoir and pump it slowly, after bubbles stop remove object from from hose while it is still in the fluid, replace the rubber and cap. Then do the Slave by using a vacuum pump, when done hook up the Qiuck Disconnect line. Then bleed it the regular way to get out any air that got there hooking up the line. Have an assistant push the peddle down BUT not all the way to the floor, put a hammer head under peddle to keep it off the floor (DO NOT PUMP THE PEDDLE). Open valve and bleed. The author said it took a half hour to do it, Ya Right.






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I bought the 76 in August , but haven't been able to work on it. When I get a chance I'll post some pictures.
Corvette Resurrection?