Electricals - phew

I'm in the midst of wiring my car - no problems with the American Autowire stuff. There is w-a-a-a-y more wire then I'll ever need so any add-ons, no problem. My "problems" have been some of the other items. The MSD - the coil and distributor wires were about 6' too long, no problem.....but the ignition wire and the two power wires...about 6' too short - some #12ga, about $11 worth later, corrected. The Vintage Air - the schematic says hook up the pink and green wires to the 87A speed control relay.....where are they? There are no pink and green wires, they're orange and red instead and that particular loom loom of 4 wires, it was about a foot too short. Oh well no big deal !!! The main battery wires, 1 gage. The red positive cable is about 16-18 feet long, the black might be 2'....this was a $35 fix for an 8' length (did I say copper wire is expensive now !!!).

Just had to whine a bit as this wiring is really going well with some time eating aw s**ts. I'm really happy so far with the quality of the wiring kit. It has everything that I paid for with probably enough wire left over to wire another small car. I've added a couple of switches and a few connectors but those were my choice. I don't have the fenders on the car yet to reduce the chance for damage, but have wires hanging for most of the components. Now I'm trying to see what I can do about hiding some of the wiring coming from the engine compartment, fan and headlights - might just go inside the frame rails yet. Then hang the rest of the tin, crank 'er up and terrorize the neighbors (in my dreams:LOL: )

That American Autowire kit isn't cheap, but is really worth the money IMO. It is the one Dan is going to use on his RPU too. You get more circuits than you usually need, but that's ok.

Sounds like you will be making sounds (real ones) pretty soon. :) I always like it when you flip switches for the first time and stuff lights up and turns on.

Don

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

That American Autowire kit isn't cheap, but is really worth the money IMO. It is the one Dan is going to use on his RPU too. You get more circuits than you usually need, but that's ok.

Sounds like you will be making sounds (real ones) pretty soon. :) I always like it when you flip switches for the first time and stuff lights up and turns on.

Don

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Don,
I only hope those sounds are of a mild 5.0 rumbling to life after 6 years of dormant sleep, not the crackling and popping from a wiring error:o

AAW has a good Customer Service mgr, Donny Bock. I'm using a big CCS electric fan - I asked him via email about a half hour ago if I needed another separate relay and have already gotten a response. Unfortunately yes, I need a 30 amp for this one but later CCS fans need a 70. I don't need relays for the halogen headlights though :D

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Originally Posted by IC2

.... The Vintage Air - the schematic says hook up the pink and green wires to the 87A speed control relay.....where are they? There are no pink and green wires, they're orange and red instead....

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On a Vintage Air system, there are usually 2 relays; a power relay, and a fan relay, and they are pre-wired from the factory.
The only wires you should need to hook up are the red wire to the battery via a supplied circuit breaker (I connect this to the BATT terminal on the ignition switch when I use an AAW kit), the orange wire which is connected to the accessory terminal on the ignition switch (to trigger the power relay and turn the system on and off with the key), and a blue wire to the compressor clutch (preferably wired through the binary switch, or a trinary switch if you have an electric radiator fan).

Joe G.

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Originally Posted by Joe G

On a Vintage Air system, there are usually 2 relays; a power relay, and a fan relay, and they are pre-wired from the factory.
The only wires you should need to hook up are the red wire to the battery via a supplied circuit breaker (I connect this to the BATT terminal on the ignition switch when I use an AAW kit), the orange wire which is connected to the accessory terminal on the ignition switch (to trigger the power relay and turn the system on and off with the key), and a blue wire to the compressor clutch (preferably wired through the binary switch, or a trinary switch if you have an electric radiator fan).

Joe G.

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Joe,
I wish that was what I had - but I got 2 separate looms with individual spade type connectors, one to the control from the evaporator and one to the 2 relays along with a schematic with my Gen ll Mini. It's all connected, after a few choice words and some time spent "wringing" it out. No big deal - but my time, and Vintage could have "fixed" that had they used the right colored wires. I'm using a binary switch - regardless of the fact that I have an electric fan. AAW has a connection for the relay trigger(#9) then to a module Acc terminal (#10)

I've been wiring my car also. Crawling over / around / underneath and using muscles that have been dormant for too long! Ouch, I am sore today! LOL.

Like you I'm trying to hide as much of the wire as I can. I hadn't thought about going inside the frame rail. We'll see.

I used the American 22 circucit,you're right it has a lot of circuits built in plus relays.I was concerned about the elec.fuel pump and I gave them a call and they said the circuit was set up for more amps.than what my pump required.

All my wires are run through the interior,trunk,headliner and kick panels.The headlights are the exception.I went to the hobby shop and bought a 1/8 dia.piece of spaghetti tubing and ran it through the panels,run the wire thru the tubing,slide off the tubing and bingo the wire is routed without being seen.Some of the wiring is routed prior to the panels being installed.My head liner was fixed thus ,the tubing was a time saver.

Mike, I haven't even done underneath the car yet - but most wires will be in a raceway inside of the car. I still have my trans cover off, though about ready soon to install. The only under car wires are the speedo sender(3), brake switch(2) and trans temp sender(1). These will enter the car under the drivers seat through a grommeted hole in the floorboards. Even the starter solenoid wires will be in a conduit and on top of the floorboards.

Don, it sounds like you have the same or similar module as I have. All of my wiring will be hidden except the engine compartment/front end. With an Ford motor in an early Ford roadster, hiding wires back to the module is a challenge as there really are no easily available places with a boxed frame and the engine wires at its' front. These wires will go in some sort of a loom or conduit: headlights 2 + 1 ground, MSD 3, fan 1+1 ground, fan sender 1, water temp 1, oil press 1, a/c comp 1.

Regardless of my whine, it is a fun part of the project:3dSMILE:

I have just spent the best part of the last two days under the car doing the starter wiring - oh my achin' bones. I'm using 1ga wire and it really doesn't make curves well from the starter to the trunk around all the claptrap I have between the frame rails and cross members.

I really would like a lift of some sort, but it isn't in my budget now (or ever!!)

One more day doing the final bracketing of those wires and then finish up the rest of the body assembly and wires. I did find that It was a lot easier to do much of the wiring with the fenders off but now I'll need 'em on for headlights.

Wiring's kinda fun.

As noted, it can make you sore all over.

Set the car up on ramps or jackstands, put some old plush carpet remnants on the floor and it'll make life a lot easier.

Kneel on the carpet when working to the side of the car and lie on it when underneath.

Since roadster doors are easily removable, take em off.
Makes it a lot easier to get under the dash.

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Originally Posted by C9x

Wiring's kinda fun.

As noted, it can make you sore all over.

Set the car up on ramps or jackstands, put some old plush carpet remnants on the floor and it'll make life a lot easier.

Kneel on the carpet when working to the side of the car and lie on it when underneath.

Since roadster doors are easily removable, take em off.
Makes it a lot easier to get under the dash.

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I'm way ahead of you - the right door is off, it's up on ramps, the carpet is under it - but every time I crawl under it - there is always one more tool needed - and unless Susan is just wandering through, it's slide out, get the tool and start all over.

And I am enjoying the wiring challenge - I only wish I could have mounted the battery between the frame rails but the '31 chassis is too narrow

To change my pain factor, its' a lawn mow morning. We have had just enough rain every day that the mower and I get a workout about every 3-4 days.

Ibuprofen (and/or a wee nip in the evening) works miracles :eek: :D

Hi Dave...

Maybe too late but I was going to suggest welding wire for the main feed to the starter. I used 2-ought and it was easy to work with as the fine strands make it really flexible... I think I used about 17' from the trunk to the starter solenoid. It wasn't cheap at $4/foot but I'm sure 1-ought or 1ga. would be cheaper... something to keep in mind for next time :)

I went through my wiring project over the winter and it turned out to be a lot more work than I anticipated but it's worth it not having to worry about which electrical problem is going to bite me this week :CRY: I used a Painless kit... and of course it wasn't (neither on the body or the wallet :LOL:) but it went pretty well and I didn't have to do any additional cutting on the firewall.

Good luck wrapping it up!

-Chris

Chris,
I considered welding wire but I already had a 20 foot chunk of new red 1ga Taylor wire so all I needed was a chunk of black. My never used buzz box almost sacrificed its' leads for the 'cause' but it is 4ga.

So far my American Autowire 'kit' has been close to pain free - it's just the starter and ground cables that haven't been.

Do you recall when Boyd's show was on - and on the list of work was "wire the car this afternoon"? No way did they custom wire a car in an afternoon - even with several guys working on it. I always got a chuckle out of that after doing a couple of cars previously. My dash, which is off of the car took 2 days to sort out!!

A tip for those who have not started their wiring yet. Regardless of if you buy a "wiring kit" or wire from scratch, the first step in the wiring project should be a drawing of the entire system....use 17" X 22" paper or larger (or multiple pages) and do a sketch of every component. Like the diagrams in the shop manuals, located the components in some order...like the tail lights on one side and the headlights on the other.

Then, you can lay in the locations of the fuse block, battery, etc. Your connecting wires are easy to draw and you can label them with their color, wire size, and wire number. As you run wires and attach them, you can mark off the completed wire with a yellow highlighter so you can keep track of the remaining wires to attach.

The diagram will also let you organize the wires and to see improvement possibilities.....

mike in tucson

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Originally Posted by robot

A tip for those who have not started their wiring yet. Regardless of if you buy a "wiring kit" or wire from scratch, the first step in the wiring project should be a drawing of the entire system....use 17" X 22" paper or larger (or multiple pages) and do a sketch of every component. Like the diagrams in the shop manuals, located the components in some order...like the tail lights on one side and the headlights on the other.

Then, you can lay in the locations of the fuse block, battery, etc. Your connecting wires are easy to draw and you can label them with their color, wire size, and wire number. As you run wires and attach them, you can mark off the completed wire with a yellow highlighter so you can keep track of the remaining wires to attach.

The diagram will also let you organize the wires and to see improvement possibilities.....

mike in tucson

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Mike,
This is why I like the "kit" that I have. My American Autowire kit has a full schematic ( on two pages that I have taped together - I also printed up several extra 17x22 inch 'B' size copies). Whatever I've added has been drawn in with colors of the added wiring labeled. AAW also break it down by system - which is another set of schematics. Then to make it even better, they have it drawn by individual significant component - it's almost an information overload:D Every one of these pages has instructions as to why you do what:HMMM:

Ron Francis doesn't like wiring diagrams. He supplies step-by-step directions. That - and a lack of location for additional relays are my main complaints with his stuff.

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Ron Francis doesn't like wiring diagrams. He supplies step-by-step directions. That - and a lack of location for additional relays are my main complaints with his stuff.

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Verbals are fine but I'm still enough of an engineer to relate to pictures (schematics) better then someones idea on what is meant

Dave, didnt realize that some kits had schematics....most that I have seen use the crazy written instructions that makes no sense.... they do more to confuse the assemblyer. I havent use many kits since we do our own wiring from scratch anyway in order to choose the components that we want to use (size/type of wire, connections, and components). Painless' descriptions are a real pain.

mike in tucson

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Originally Posted by robot

Dave, didnt realize that some kits had schematics....most that I have seen use the crazy written instructions that makes no sense.... they do more to confuse the assemblyer. I havent use many kits since we do our own wiring from scratch anyway in order to choose the components that we want to use (size/type of wire, connections, and components). Painless' descriptions are a real pain.

mike in tucson

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I just flopped a page of my schematic on the scanner and took a picture of the center (my scanner wont do "B" size pages). It will give you an idea of what I'm using. The quality of the AAW schematics is good - this is poor due to my scanner

It's still in progress??? And I'm not showing the rest of the mess of snake pit of wires..... yet

IC2, Phew is right. As you predicted, my summer job is eating into garage time to a large extent and at present I am stuck at completing the installation of the Zip water pump riser on my SBC350. The mechanical stuff is aasembled except for finding the right fan belt and cutting out the hole in the shroud but my morning job is keeping me quite busy.

Robot, the idea of making my own circuit diagram is interesting; my kit did not come with a diagram but I have a book on wiring hot rods with some schematics. I guess the part about wires being too long or too short is sort of what is holding me back. Before I started my summer job I was making progress by just sitting in the garage with a wet towel around my neck in front of a window fan and just "Doing what comes next". Actually that works OK but I think I will have a bout with hood-fitting. I can put off hood fitting to work on the wiring and basically I have been finding excuses in terms of added mechanical work to put off the wiring job. I guess when I run out of mechanical chores I will just have to start putting in some wires and make a few learing mistakes. While I am here I will admit I really do not have a good understanding of all the various fittings needed in the Edelbrock intake. For instance there is a threaded hole just behind the distributor hole that might be for an oil pressure gauge fitting? That may be hold down screw but there is also a threaded hole in the block which I have plugged with a bolt now that may be for the oil pressure? Where do I connect the Tach, etc.? Again the intake manifold has several small threaded holes and presumeably I will have to plug the ones I do not use? A lot of the time I really wish I had a flathead so I could rely on memories from long ago in the sense that one tends to remember stuff learned at an early age rather than have to jump into a 1980s "modern" engine! I just have to tell myself to be glad I do not have a computerized FI engine, hah! Basically my problem is similar to what IC2 said, many of the wires are deceptively too long but cutting them without careful thinking will probably require resplicing pieces, but I guess I am just whining about unknown things to come. Actually I need a diagram for small plumbing connections on the engine as well as an electrical diagram. I have a Chilton's manual for the 1976 Corvette from which my 350 came but it is all factory diagrams and not a whole lot of help for the Edelbrock setup. Still I am just whining and will do things as they come along when I get time, but thanks for this thread as yet another learning process.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

What we do is to first have a drawing of the entire circuit. The drawing identifies the wire size and color, of course. (we are not using a kit, we are building our own harness). We install wires by routing them all before they are terminated.....so all the bundles are there so we can check the size, clearances, etc. As we route the wires, we can use a highlighter to mark off the wire on the drawing so we dont forget wires or do too many.

When we finish routing, we start terminating at one end...usually the field end. Again, we mark the terminations off as they are done. Then, we terminate at the fuse block/relay/whatever.

Troubleshooting is done one fuse circuit at at time...insert the single fuse, check the circuit, remove the fuse and go to the next. If we have a major short, we are kinda isolated this way.

I keep a drawing of each car because I cant remember squat when we need to add stuff.

mike in tucson

Don,
With wiring - that's why I went with the AAW setup. Go back a couple of posts and you will see a part of one of the schematics that came with my 'kit', almost too much information. That schematic plus separate diagrams and drawings for each system and subsystem. Then, of course now come the mechanical problems of where to put pieces you thought would fit .... but don't. I'm sitting here staring at my coil. The @#$%$#@% thing wont work with it's bracket where I had it mounted with a passel of wires now in place. That's going to be put aside as tomorrows problem. As far as some wires being too short -so far only one pair but I rerouted and they now 'work'.

It sounds like you need to sit down with a few 'B' drawing size pieces of paper, 11x16, and draw up sketchs of what you nned and want. It has to be easier then that Cray knock off computer you built:LOL: :LOL:

Robot and IC2, Thanks that does help formulate the problem. I see now I can/should string out the wires without connection and make a diagram as I go and then I can cut the wires to length and make a working diagram as I go. Any comments on where to connect:

1976 SBC 350
1. Tach
2. vacuum advance
3. Oil pressure hole in the block
4. Plug other holes in the manifold ?????

I know they are dumb questions but usually it takes me three tries of misfit parts to get it right and maybe you can save me some time.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

If you have an HEI distributor, there is a tach terminal on the side of the cap facing downward...right next to the power input connector.

For the vacuum advance, you connect to the carb (it is a carb?) for ported vacuum (above the butterflies) ...however, some setups use true manifold (below butterflies)...especially some engines that had the thermal vacuum switch. Also, there are different vacuum advance cans for HEI distributors....any GM can will fit but they pull different advance amounts.

Oil pressure hole in the block??? A sender goes in this hole, it is usually matched to the gauge that you are using. It is 1/8NPT on Chevys. This hole is at the rear of the block facing upward and just behind the manifold....correct?

There aren't many other holes in the manifold...perhaps a big 3/8NPT hole just behind the carb that is for the power brakes, maybe a water hole at the front passenger side, and maybe an EGR port on the passenger side of the carb.
Did I miss one?

Mike in Tucson

Robot,
Thanks for tolerating my dumb questions. Yes that tapped hole on the rear of the block on the drivers side of the distributor hole certainly has oil because I have pre-lubed with an electric drill several times and loosely plugged that hole with a bolt but the pressurized oil still came out of the hole a little bit so that pins down the oil pressure hole. I will have to go over the intake again to check out the holes you mention but that is helpful. I do have a HEI distributor so I will look for the tach connector now that I know where to look, thanks. The vacuum advance may be a problem since I did not know there are several versions/sizes. I have connected a braided hose to the carb, yes an edelbrock 650 cfm carb, I see one threaded hole I can use in the intake for a heater hose but there is another large threaded hole which I will check out an maybe plug. I will reread your message and look over the intake connections again. Today I did my morning part time job and then messed with the Zip water pump some more. It took me four tries to get the right fan belt but I have been dealing with a friendly local parts dealer who favors blue oval street rods but is interested in helping me so I just kept trying until I found a belt that is 53 5/8" long and it fits fine! The Zip directions suggested a 52" belt but with different adjusting arm; I am using a nice chromed "universal" arm from Speedway and the slightly larger belt was needed. Thanks for you help! IC2 would help but he is involved with a SBF Ford engine. So far I have added shims to the nose of the water pump pully so that the fan blades clear the alternator pully bolt by about 1/8" but I may have to change that if the fan is too close to the radiator honeycomb. I will not know that until I get the shroud cut out (next).

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by IC2

It's still in progress??? And I'm not showing the rest of the mess of snake pit of wires..... yet

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Hi Dave, Glad to see your wiring is almost at an end. I too went with AAW Highway 15 for my 30 roadster. Boy you have lots of room to spare under your front cowl. You should see mine with the Vintage Air Gen II super cooler evaporator box in there...and my fuse panel is under the dash too. I can't wait to see pics of your completed roadster when it is on the road. I'm praying mine will be done in 2 or 3 more weeks. Keep up the good work. :D

My last 3 wire jobs have been with Painless systems. Jason in customer support is a real wizzard and nice to talk to. I can't stump him even with dumb questions. haha. Thanks for the help Jason.

I guess all the systems have too long and too short wires and not the right gage. Not a real problem. I made my own relay and circuit breaker system for the last project which had 6 high power halogen head lights and fog light. I also added the fan relay to the box as it's wires went forward too. You can buy this stuff but I like to waste time making stuff...if you get my point. :LOL:

Merging other electrical devices such as A/C, power windows, door locks, and EFI all seem to take unexpected connections.

So far my only real complaint is the high cost of a few connectors that I have had to get at the hardware store. Yikes $0.50 each for spade connectors.

I just bought a few hundred bucks worth of stuff from the local electrical supply so I now have every common connector available as well as Weather pack and Packard multipin stuff. I just got fed up with being gouged for a needed connector or part. I have enough heat shrink to wrap the whole car....in several sizes. haha

It can be a challenge to keep things neat and sorted out in the confined space of a streetrod. It's not out of line to install the fuse center behind the seat or in the trunk. This winter I'm considering this for my Willys which is a nightmare under the dash.

One last ramble....as with most "complete systems" don't think that every last nut and bolt is there. You still are going to make many trips to the "store" to get some needed items. Be sure to allow some extra gas dollars for this. :mad: :CRY:

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Originally Posted by stylingZ

Hi Dave, Glad to see your wiring is almost at an end. I too went with AAW Highway 15 for my 30 roadster. Boy you have lots of room to spare under your front cowl. You should see mine with the Vintage Air Gen II super cooler evaporator box in there...and my fuse panel is under the dash too. I can't wait to see pics of your completed roadster when it is on the road. I'm praying mine will be done in 2 or 3 more weeks. Keep up the good work. :D

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Hi Mike - The wiring is going fairly well, just takes time. There are a few more wires to run but it's been really hot and humid here and really limits my day. I decided to put the module in back of the seat - my a/c and reinforcing steel made it tough to get the rat's nest out of sight - now I have the runs along the floorboards where they will be imbedded in my carpet insulation. I'm glad one of us is about done - I'm hoping to get mine back to the upholsterer for final installation about when yours will be done. I need to see more pictures from your project!!!!

Bentwings, I have had the same kind of customer service from Don at AAW as you have had from Painless.

Hidden costs - the extra relays, another 7' long length of 1ga, 3 $6.00 toggle switches, a main shut off, a secondary fuse panel, connectors, more wire for the add-ons, hundreds of wire ties, a battery box, etc, etc, etc, etc and probably to the tune of a 2-3 hundred dollars. I'm at the point of having most everything wired and in a general run, with final neatening up coming soon, this week, hopefully. Now - off for some bolts I'm short of, then back to work:D

When got my 29 it already was set up using a vintage 1960 Ron Francis wiring kit. It has not failed me yet but it is ugly. The attached photo was taken right after i got the car. (under seat location)

:toocool:

That looks like the 1986 panel that he produced - and looks good. Take a look here at the "history" of the Ron Francis panels". http://www.ronfrancis.com/images/chart-file10.jpg

Yours was made before every manufacturer felt that they had to pre terminate and micro size the panels. Preterminating and miniaturization would have made my wiring job even more of a nightmare with routing and rerouting some of my wires on my '31. As it is, it's tough to even read the lettering on my AAW module - and that's far from being tiny.

IC2, just curious if you've been testing the wiring as you go?

Either for continuity or voltage to the component being wired.

I did both when I wired my 32 roadster from scratch.
Worked well with a battery in place along with a master cut-off switch.

I wired the 32 like an airplane.
Separate fuses for everything.
One for left high beam, one for left low beam, etc.
Never did understand why you should lose every light in the car just cuz one wire shorted.

Takes some extra wire and relays are used where needed so that full battery voltage goes to a particular component.
Like the fuel pump.
Voltage to pumps can drop 1-2 volts lower than battery voltage depending on how long a run of wire you have.
Once you add fuel pump safety switches etc. you can have a very long run of wire to the pump.

While interesting to do it this way and it's been very trouble free, in the end it costs about the same as the wiring kits.

But . . . I have bigger wire and sturdier terminals along with mucho ease in trouble shooting.

Haven't had any problems in the wiring dept.

If you do your own, be sure to add 2-3 circuits for future expansion.
Heater & cigarette lighter for a power plug - which I added later - a wire is in place for a radio one of these days and another wire is strung under the dash.
All of them with their own fuse.

Lots easier to add stuff up front than later on....

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Originally Posted by C9x

IC2, just curious if you've been testing the wiring as you go?

Either for continuity or voltage to the component being wired.

I did both when I wired my 32 roadster from scratch.
Worked well with a battery in place along with a master cut-off switch.

I wired the 32 like an airplane.
Separate fuses for everything.
One for left high beam, one for left low beam, etc.
Never did understand why you should lose every light in the car just cuz one wire shorted.

Takes some extra wire and relays are used where needed so that full battery voltage goes to a particular component.
Like the fuel pump.
Voltage to pumps can drop 1-2 volts lower than battery voltage depending on how long a run of wire you have.
Once you add fuel pump safety switches etc. you can have a very long run of wire to the pump.

While interesting to do it this way and it's been very trouble free, in the end it costs about the same as the wiring kits.

But . . . I have bigger wire and sturdier terminals along with mucho ease in trouble shooting.

Haven't had any problems in the wiring dept.

If you do your own, be sure to add 2-3 circuits for future expansion.
Heater & cigarette lighter for a power plug - which I added later - a wire is in place for a radio one of these days and another wire is strung under the dash.
All of them with their own fuse.

Lots easier to add stuff up front than later on....

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So far I haven't fully tested the wiring but have added relays - fan, head lights along with another for the hi/low switch - which is one of the time consumers along with trying to make neat runs. I've also added a non-master switched and fused sub panel with a maxi fuse in its' main power lead and with a separate shut off(radio/power trunk lift that was a slip in my sanity).

Since I don't have an electric fuel pump, I don't have a problem there with a wire run.

The AAW module will have plenty of spare spaces when I'm done as I originally purchased it, a 22 circuit unit, for a sedan that I have since sold so will have a "power point" along with the always present radio and of course, a/c and a heater, also purchased for the sedan project.

Next on the agenda are final terminations, full continuity check, crank and start and 'clean up'.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IC2

So far I haven't fully tested the wiring but have added relays - fan, head lights along with another for the hi/low switch - which is one of the time consumers along with trying to make neat runs. I've also added a non-master switched and fused sub panel with a maxi fuse in its' main power lead and with a separate shut off(radio/power trunk lift that was a slip in my sanity).


Next on the agenda are final terminations, full continuity check, crank and start and 'clean up'.

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Hi Dave. Like you I've been making time for wiring the car. It's been a real bear when the humidity is higher than the air temp! That little car is like a sauna some times! LOL.. I have a question I hope you or someone migth be able to answer. I have a inline brake pressure switch with 2 studs for electric connections. Do you (or anyone) know who may have a female connector that goes over this switch? I've been trying "stuff" to get onto the studs but am just not happy with my results thus far. Any help appreciated.

Hey, I just finished up my summer job and am reviewing this thread to get back to my wiring problem/project. My only positive comment is that I have found that if I put a wet towel around my neck, the heat in the garage is no problem!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Hi Dave. Like you I've been making time for wiring the car. It's been a real bear when the humidity is higher than the air temp! That little car is like a sauna some times! LOL.. I have a question I hope you or someone migth be able to answer. I have a inline brake pressure switch with 2 studs for electric connections. Do you (or anyone) know who may have a female connector that goes over this switch? I've been trying "stuff" to get onto the studs but am just not happy with my results thus far. Any help appreciated.

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Could you supply a picture of the switch in question?

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Originally Posted by 34_40

Hi Dave. Like you I've been making time for wiring the car. It's been a real bear when the humidity is higher than the air temp! That little car is like a sauna some times! LOL.. I have a question I hope you or someone migth be able to answer. I have a inline brake pressure switch with 2 studs for electric connections. Do you (or anyone) know who may have a female connector that goes over this switch? I've been trying "stuff" to get onto the studs but am just not happy with my results thus far. Any help appreciated.

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Mike,
My parts store had a couple and I also picked up a couple from Kwik-Wire at NSRA York. Another way - all (real) older Fords had these as their brake switch connector - so a junk yard......maybe

Mike and Don - the temp here hasn't been too bad, but, like you say, the humidity is unreal this year. Then with the amount of rain we've had, the wet areas in the woods behind me that the Army Corps of Engineers says doesn't exist, has continued to raise squadrons of mosquitoes making bombing runs with black flies as interceptors. Interesting trying to swat a whine in the ear while under the car

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IC2

Mike,
My parts store had a couple and I also picked up a couple from Kwik-Wire at NSRA York. Another way - all (real) older Fords had these as their brake switch connector - so a junk yard......maybe

Mike and Don - the temp here hasn't been too bad, but, like you say, the humidity is unreal this year. Then with the amount of rain we've had, the wet areas in the woods behind me that the Army Corps of Engineers says doesn't exist, has continued to raise squadrons of mosquitoes making bombing runs with black flies as interceptors. Interesting trying to swat a whine in the ear while under the car

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While I don't have a picture to post, I can search (google) for Kwik-Wire and I'll double check my local auto parts stores. There's one here that prides themselves on having parts for "anything old"..

Dave, my in-laws just got back from a vacation in Maine and they complained of the same situation. Skeeters & Blackfly... They started earlier than usual this year too!

Thanks Guys!

I did search for Brake Switch Connectors and discovered that Haywire and American Auto Wire sell the same switch I have. Yet, neither show a connector for that switch. We'll see if they answer an e-mail regarding that switch connection. Thanks Guys!

A standard female blue bullet connector works. I just installed 2 of these and that's what I used.