Printable View
Yeah, that's what I used also but I don't feel like it's the greatest way to do it. I was hoping to find a connector that would completely cover the switch and protect the connections from road dirt and rain, etc. etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
I just figured there was a better way to do it. Thanks,:) :)
I am following this thread and hopefully learning. You guys worry over stuff I haven't thought about yet, but the brake light switch I got from Speedway does look flimsy and will be down where it can indeed pick up dirt and water. I wonder if it would be possible to use that liquid rubber stuff (Glyptol????) that you can use to put insulating handles on pliers and screwdrivers for electrical tools would work. If the whole switch could be dipped in that stuff it could be trimmed with a sharp knife and could provide a tight sheath which might be fairly waterproof? It might be necessary to block off the holes first to keep the rubbery stuff from getting inside. Just thinking ahead to a problem you guys have already come to.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
You can put the bullet connectors on and us some heat shrink if you want. You can use 2 sizes too for a good fit. You really aren't going to take them off anytime soon.
I use a butane lighter to shrink the stuff. Works great.
I did recieve a e-mail reply from Haywire. They said they don't have any connector for the switch they sell. I hadn't thought about the heat shrink or even the rubber coating that Don mentions. I like the heat shrink idea and plan on trying that. Thanks Guys!:toocool:Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
Mike - there is a version that has screw contacts as well and this one from Ron FrancisQuote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Lookie what I found
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/pr...&productid=961
Then a few (hundred) more: http://www.thefind.com/query.php?que...UAQA%3D&filter[pagenum]=1
Wow, thanks for the help Dave. Lot's of choices there! I'll let you know how it comes out.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Mike - how did you make out with the connectors??
==========================================
I forgot how much "fun" it is to lay on your back under an almost completely finished jacked up (not quite high enough) car while trying to 'hang' wire then to go back and clamp it out of the way of hot or rotating pieces. Then, of course, replumbing the gas line which is another post. Then there was the oil pump drive shaft fiasco, removing the oil pan and oil pump to install a new shaft then reinstall it - again, the subject of another post. Except for a couple of drooling transmission pan bolts, I think I'm done there - in more ways then one - I've gotten too old and plump to do this too often. Final wire check starts NOW:D
First crank today about 4:30. No problems seen yet. I need to do a finish wire check on the rest of the dash, gauges and a/c wiring and maybe, just maybe, first fire tomorrow, Thursday.**) **) **) :D :D :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Did you fire that thing up today, Dave? I'm anxious for you to get that thing on the street.....especially since it'll be a while before mine is on the street....LOL! Will do an update on my progress before long.
Hope all is well with you.
Randy
Ahhhh a message from the left coast. I was about to send you a reminder that we are all waiting for more updates from you and your quest.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Haven't fired yet - I found a couple of misplaced wires and one totally missing so am going over everything one more time today. Hopefully I can do that check done today then.....maybe this weekend. It's amazing how long little things take.
....yeah, the "little" things......I've been fitting the back edge of my hood for a month & a half!!!! In my defense, "life" has kept me sidetracked from my project quite a bit but I will persist....even if only at a snail's pace!Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I'm stoked to hear that your ride will soon be rumbling in your garage.....next....to the streets!
Later,
Randy
One wire still misplaced - the oil press gauge pegs - so back to the drawing board in the AM. All the light wiring works as designed including the turn and high beam indicators.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Snail's pace or no on a car project - "life" still prevails
Dave. I made my own connectors! Just a few minutes on the lathe with some bits of brass. A couple threaded holes and # 10 screws. They won't come off and the wires won't loosen.! Shame about the oil pressure gauge. Not sure what to say about it.. just know that I want to tease you and have you pull out the diagrams.. LOL...Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
All my gauges are working and the lights as well. I still need to complete the interior lighting circuits and the gauge dimmer/lights circuits. Even got a "beep" "beep" horn! Oh, and a gas gauge too! LOL....
Randy, good to see you post! Miss "chattin" with you too!
Had to work in Milwaukee this past week. Hotel was like 120 bucks a night. Harley is celebrating their 105 anniversary this weekend. Room rates shoot up to 500 bucks! Yikes, I'm gone!
Dang nab it - just when I think I've got this electrical stuff down and done, another widget grabs me.
I have a full MSD ignition system, just like my last car - distributor, coil and 6 series box. Good common setup - right? Every one has one. Right? My VDO tachometer wont work without another part, a $28 tach adapter. I can't hook it up to the coil - the car wont run. I can't hook it up to the usual terminal on the side of the ignition box, the tach just bounces off the pin.
Sooooooo, if everything else fails, I have to read the instructions - and they specifically say that a VDO tach needs the "special MSD 8910 adapter":whacked: :whacked: . Oh well, no big deal, just another lesson pounded in my hard head - it will be here Friday from Summit:D
( I truly hope that whoever reads my various whines in this forum don't think that they are complaints - you folks are about the only ones I can talk to most week days, 8 to 5, unless you consider the resident chipmunk and he's not very communicative )
we will all know youve gone over the edge when that chipmunk starts talking or maybe he will start posting on your theads guard your pass word LOL ted
It seems a shame that you need another piece just to run that tach. 28 bucks isn't too bad.. but it still 28 bucks and then you have to wait. As far as complaints, no big deal here. Glad to see someone else have some "hurdles" to get over. I always feel like "they" are out to get me sometimes! LOL.. I had a cat move into the shop for awhile, guess he didn't like the noise as I haven't seen him in quite sometime. He would jump into the car and fall asleep in the passenger seat. At first I thought it was cute. Then I realized that he STINKS! I don't miss him! :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
IC2 while you are hot on the circuits can you comment as to whether you are using the brake light for the turn signals or the running light? I just put an LED kit from Bratton's Model A parts in my '29 teacup tailights but as you know there are only two lights in the teacup. One is the larger brakelight and the lower smaller light is the running light. The nice thing about the LED kit is that it has leads attached to bulb bases which fit into the bulb sockets. That means that the other end of the connections are the stock wires for a Model A. The guy at Bratton's said their turn signal kit uses the larger top lens/LED for the turn signal and that if the brake light is already on the turn signal blinker will override the brake light. Since I have a GM column with It's-A-Snap I wonder if I can leave the brake light alone and use the running light for the blinking turn signal? Although I have messed around with circuits before, it is not clear to me how to rig either light so that the turn signal overrides the other part of the circuit. Can you comment on how you set up your rear turn signal lights? I think this was covered about 18 months ago by DennyW but I don't recall the name of the thread.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
I would appreciate it if anyone recalls the name of the thread where this problem was previously discussed.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Don,
I went into the Bratton's site and looked at the conversion - and it appears to me that you just wire it conventionally(i.e., as you would any taillight). If this mod is actually several/many LEDs on a circuit board, then all you will have to do is to wire as you would the OEMlight. I'm using the '53 (?) Pontiac type lights attached to the panel below the trunk which is as described above. The only thing that I had to do is figure out which wire was brake and which was tail. From the Bratton's on line catalog:
"LED stop & tail lights - Replace your old light bulbs with these new LED’s. They require no modification to your existing tail lights. Can be used on either drum or tea cup style. The left light includes the light for your license plate. Tail light draws .2 amps while producing 90 CP. Stop light draws .5 amps while producing 180 CP. Can be used on all years. These LED bulbs will work with no modification on our part #'s 20400, 20401, 20410, 20411, 20420, 20422. Any other kits you may have to splice in an additional bulb to the circut to create more resistance."
And to finally answer your question, YES, the brake light is the turn signal - and mine does work.
The only possible problem that I can see - the amp draw/resistance may not be enough to trip the on-off action of the flasher which means you might need a resistor (regardless of what they say) in that circuit. Watson's Street Works - ~$9.00/pair has them or Radio Shack for a lot less.
Don (and others)
Don, I don't believe you'd like the dim output from the running lamp bulb to act as the directional.Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Are you saying you have more than 2 circuits to each side of the rear?
I have seen it done that way but, don't know why you'd want to add circuits when the directional switch can handle that chore for you. Like IC2 I have 3 circuits at the back of the car. #1 - running & lic.plate lamps. Then Left stop/turn signal and Right stop/turn signal. I purchased a directional switch from Lime Works and could digitize the directions and send them to you - it may offer some help. They aren't very descriptive tho...
34-40, Thanks for the suggestion. If you get a chance I would like to look at that circuit. At present there are just two wires coming out of each tailight as if they were stock Model A lights and I will add a ground wire due to the fiberglass body. It may become obvious later on but I don't see what over rides the brake light if my foot is on the brake waiting for a left turn and trying to have the left turn signal on. Maybe it is in the GM column (I doubt it) or maybe in the Its-A-Snap fuse board? I am at the very beginning of installing my It's-A-Snap wiring kit and will undoubtedly learn more as I go but for the time being I don't see how the upper light can do both things at once. I can see how the blinker turns on the upper light when the brake light is off, but when the brake light is already on I don't see how the blinker turns it off to make it blink for the turn signal. Maybe it is like the three wire circuit at the top and bottom of a stairway where either one can turn the other off and vice-versa? Send me what you can if it is convenient for you.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don. That's the ticket! The BRAKE/TURN IS THE SAME! It's just that the directional switch sends the brake light power thru the flasher to act as the turn signal! I know this is over simplifying it but. That's the way it works!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
Resurrect this one again just for a whine:CRY:
I pulled the steering column to repaint it due to my clumsiness and gouging the h#!! out of it and decided to rearrange some wiring - and now I have the lights screwed up. @#$%^&*@? So tomorrow - fix my fix!!!! And to think - Boyd Coddington's guys used to wire an entire shop built car in an afternoon and have everything work the first time - NOT:LOL: !!
What Happened?? How did it get goofed up? :3dSMILE: You've even got a schematic:p **) :LOL: couldn't help it.. I had to tease ya!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Easy to do, with a cold one in the left hand and a connector in the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
It can't be a major problem - there are only just so many ways to scre....oops, hook up those wires**)
We used to say 2 wires, hook'em up! 3 wires, f_ _ _'em up!:whacked:Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I finally got out of the house yesterday and went to the shop - had a cold one myself and then helped my uncle move a oil drum. Next thing I know I feel my back go "POP"... Had my first visit this year with the chiropractor! Damn, I hate when I do that!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Good grief - you're STILL falling apart!!
But then I generally have to use a heating pad on my back 2-3 days a week to get loosened up so I can move and then am OK for the day. I have an excuse - I'm old!!!:CRY:
I've been rasslin 80# 4x8 political campaign signs for the last several days that I've built with 2x4s and a piece of 3/4" chipboard so am expecting that Dr Elliot and I will become reacquainted soon (surprising that the 2 kids that they had "helping" me a couple days could be so lacking in tool savvy)
Falling Apart? I guess I'm catching up with you!:p I like about 30 minutes with the heating pad and then 30 minutes with an ice pack. Then 30 to 40 minutes off and then repeat, heat then ice. Helps a lot!Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Ain't anything good going to come from me re: political signs so I'll leave it alone!:LOL:
Doubtful you'll catch up since I take no meds ( yet) of any kindQuote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I didn't say I like the signs - I don't, they are a landscape blight in the very nice 'burb where I live but they are a fact of life these days - and the politician that's in the US House for my district is useless and has got to go - ASAP - and if I can help, will !!
I figured my wiring "problem" out - there wasn't any problem - that is except the one between my ears. I had the E-flasher pushed in:( :CRY: I know - not too swift!!
It forced me to look at my wiring and make 2 corrections where I had 2 wires backwards - and since I took the steering wheel adapter off, just ordered a polished Billet Specialties piece. Now I have an extra 9 bolt adapter painted a nice Venetian Orange which I will eventually sell:LOL:
Glad to hear you figured it out! I was over in Schenectady and Poughkeepsie the past 2 days. Are they near you? I looked like I was 90 years old every time I got out of my car! People will screw up their face when they watch me try and walk! LOL... Hope the Chiro can get me straight tomorrow!Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
reminds me of the last time I panicked and replaced the control module on my AC package unit for the house. Turns out someone knocked the fan switch on the thermostat ON. THAT is why the fan wouldn't shut off.
oops.
anyone need a Rheem control board?
Just a dumb mistake - but consider the "electrician":eek: . It did fix a couple of potential problems so not all was in vain**)Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Poughkeepsie - don't know much about it by Schenectady - that's the "beautiful" burg that I know all too well. I grew up there and worked at GE there for almost all of my work life. Currently, I live about 11 miles from what is left of a fun and lively down town that has become the home of every derelict and hapless minority group that can't find a home anywhere else.
Mike - that back of yours - once you do the chiro trip, you have to give it a couple of days rest in your recliner (which is exactly what I never find time for). I hope he give you some relief. My wife went Thursday and she seems to be better today, so there is hope.
Later
Hang on to it - you'll need it the day after you sell it !!Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
Glad to hear that you figured out your "problem"... at least the electrical one!:o I guess the next trip to Schenectedy I'll have to give you a heads up. Maybe we could get together? Also glad to hear your wife is feeling better as am I. Not perfect yet but better!:3dSMILE: I went to the shop sunday and was playin with the car and discovered my radiator fan control stopped working! Car was overheating and no fans! I couldn't crawl under the dash to verify a problem but maybe this coming weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
Maybe it'll be as easy as firebirds fix...??? I doubt it! :LOL:
Don Shilady, let's see if this diagram will show up here for you.
IC2, Thanks for the diagram. I made some progress on the fuel line and set it up several times (accumulating my own pile of mis-bent tubing) but I am not satisfied with the nearness of the line to the trans heat exchanger. Then I got a pretty serious head cold and have been trying to get rid of it for a week. It looks like I need to move the heat exchanger from the side of the frame so that is work under the car and I am thinking it over.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Don:eek: That wasn't me - that was 34_40:o We have to watch out for your health when we suggest that you crawl under your car
Mike - glad to hear you have some relief. My wife went to the bone cracker again yesterday, but, and I can tell, she is feeling much better.
As far as crawling on my back and searching under a dash for some sort of wiring 'error' is not my idea of fun any day. I put that one step above crawling under a car that isn't quite high enough - plus my body isn't quite as slim and supple as my youth:CRY: :toocool:
The next time you come this way, of course, give me a call. I'll either meet you there or give you directions on how to find my house. I do have to tell you that there are people that have been lost for years and never seen again on Schenectady streets . Do you still have my phone number??
Don, sorry for being late with that. Hope it helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
IC2 - 10-4 on working under dash and low cars! I'm from south boston. no fear of schenectady streets!:eek: LOL... I don't think I have your # ?? When I next make arrangements to be in your neck of the woods I'll give you a hollar and we'll set something up!
35-40,IC2,
I think I can work around some of the changeover to the radiator trans cooler up on top. I really need a lift because the dropped axle makes it reall difficult to work under the front, although I do have a good jack and jackstands.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder