Thread: 8" rear drum brakes

Tweet

Thank you Thank you Thank you for that great info. later today I will check out the numbers.

I found my numbers 2070741 and yes it seams like it is posi I checked it the old fashon way.Where is the best place to get the brake parts that I need?

Well, now that you can take those numbers and the measurements from flange to flange, and pretty much know what car your rear came from. Then you can go to any auto parts store and ask for whatever parts you need to complete the package. Looks like you are going to need wheel cylinders, a hardware kit for each wheel, the star adjuster mechanism that goes at the bottom (this might be a toughy as most auto stores don't carry these......maybe NAPA might) shoes, and drums.

You actually scored a pretty good rear end setup, and the posi is a plus. I'm not normally a fan of posi in a short wheelbase, light car because it tends to sometimes want to make the car go straight on turns, but you will be able to determine that when you start driving it. Some do, some don't. But the 8 3/4 is certainly strong and good looking. The only other problem you might have is that the snout on the rear is pretty long and T buckets have a short driveshaft even with an 8 inch or 9 inch rear, so you will have to see how that works out.

Good luck,

Don

BTW, I've been studying the picture you posted of your rear axle, and although it's hard to say for sure from the photo alone, there are a couple of things you might want to look at:

1) The spring that I mentioned earlier needs to not have those bends at the end. It not only inhibits the spring from moving properly, but it creates a spot where they can snap.

2) Your pinion is angled down and should be pointing up about 3 degrees.

3) It does look like your transmission tailshaft is close already to the u joint carrier on the rear axle. Ford transmissions are a little long anyway, but the extra length of that Mopar rear axle isn't helping. You might find you actually have to move the spring perch to the back of that rear crossmember to allow you to make a longer driveshaft. My Son is running a C4 transmission in his T bucket and the driveshaft ended up shorter than we would have liked, certainly shorter than the one in my T that has a turbo 350. Even if you leave the rear spring perch as is, I think it needs some additional gusseting.

4) If you cut those brackets off of the rear axle and use the ones Speedway sells that drop the radius rods down below the axle it will give you a better angle on the radius rods. They will be more level and not pointing up as they are in the picture. Not only will it look better, but it will give you more clearance between the radius rods and the back of the body.

5) There is a Volvo oil filter that screws right on the Ford and is waaaaaay shorter. It looks like yours is pretty close to the frame rail. I will get you the part number off of mine and let you know what it is.

Hope you don't mind me mentioning these things, but as long as you are redoing some stuff these might be better to do now than if the car is done.

The picture below shows how the Speedway brackets go and you can see how the radius rods lay on a more level plane.

Don