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Thread: My '27 T Sedan project
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    OFT
    OFT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford AA; 1927 Ford roadster
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    I agree with your thought's on shorting the frame to get front Z into cowl area. The "looks" would be better IMO.

  2. #2
    sgo70's Avatar
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    Well thanks to you guys for helping me with my suspension, I worked my butt off today to get it done. I used the calculators from this site to figure out my angles and lengths for my control arms:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope/

    I'm hoping for zero squat but we'll see if it works. I plan on buying tires about an inch and a half larger so I accounted for this. I thought that figuring out the angles of the brackets around the pumpkin are outside my ability and patience so I stole an idea from the 4x4's to build a truss around it to give me a square surface. I still have a bit of grinding to do and I'm not sure if I should put caps on the lower front of the control arm brackets yet. I probably will. Didn't seem to bind when I jacked it up, the uppers are 12" and the lowers are 22", let me know what you guys think.
    That fourth picture of the axle bracket looks sloppy cause the weld comes around a joint, I plan to grind it smooth.

    Sean
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    Last edited by sgo70; 07-19-2008 at 10:22 PM.

  3. #3
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I also got a bunch of the interior done last night, I'm not being very sociable hanging out in my garage by myself.
    I made my gas tank cover removable and underneath I built a frame that goes around the perimeter of the tank and bolts down. I used some sheeting with holes in it so it would protect the tank but not be in a container that could build up fumes. I also figured out I will be able to roll down my rear windows so I made the lower panel removable and bought some new regulators for them. Gonna make a cover for the battery as soon as I figure out how to mount zuess fasteners, I just can't seem to get any ideas . Any help with pictures would be appreciated.
    Just got to brace the doors and do some patch panels and it's on to the roof, I already made some supports for that. Oh yea, I got a windsheild frame from schnieders and I cant sat I was too happy with it. Took about an hour of screwing around to make it swing out properly .

    Any input is helpful, this is still my first build .

    Sean
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  4. #4
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I also wanted to ask, do you guys weld the floor all around the seams or are the spot welds enough and then add in something like seam sealer?? I don't want to warp any of the sheeting but I guess I could just do a bit at a time.

    Thanks,
    Sean

  5. #5
    rustycarr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Any Updates..?

  6. #6
    sgo70's Avatar
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    Yea I guess I haven't been keeping up with this too well. I've done all the patch panels in the usual spots, just gotta tie in the firewall on the outside to clean it up. Got both doors lined up and swinging nicely, gotta try to get those screws out so I can put in my new latches. As far as the doors go the passenger side seemed to be sagging and I could shut it and lift it up to line up with the belt line. At first I thought it was flex in the hinge mount but after playing around with it for a while I realized the skin had come apart in the spot welds. I just jacked it up and tack welded the inside seam and presto lined up door.

    I bought a big sheet of 20g sheet and put the roof on, hours of stitch welding there. I had to pie cut the middle and tack it down cause I didn't have a way to concave it. Now after welding and grinding I need to shrink down the seam and stretch the forward section. It kinda sucked down tight even after taking my time welding, I guess I should have been hammering the welds.

    I needed a break from all the bodywork so I started the dash and almost got it done. I have a 3" speedo and tach that I have to drill holes for that will go in either side at the top. I also have to weld in three little mount tabs to hold it to the console and sides. I'm really happy with the feedback I got on that.

    I did a bunch of little things like removable panels around the brake pedal and battery box. I like to have little jobs like that to do in between big jobs so it makes me feel like I made progress .

    Got a BIG shipment from UPS today with orders from Summit and Speedway that should be the last of my engine parts. I want the bodywork and painting done before I put that together but it sure is hard to wait.

    Sorry for being so long winded....

    Sean
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  7. #7
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I'll just add, I think putting in a roof properly has got to be the hardest thing I've tried yet and it's still not right.

    I also ordered some rims, 4.5" wide front and 10" wide rear:

    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

    and some BF Goodrich Silvertown white walls 165r15 front and 285/70r15 for the rear.

    http://store.coker.com/prod/p28570r1...whitewall.html

    I also had to order some wheel adapters for the rear Ford 9" so I could get those rims to fit the back.

    Thanks for asking......

    Sean

  8. #8
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I've decided to spray Lizard skin noise and heat protection throughout the car. I have my '51 Chev pick-up that I'll probably do the same so that kind of justifies buying the spray gun for it. Unless there is a cheaper gun that works??

    I want to get the frame and body primed and painted this month so just a little more body work to do and that will be next. I have holidays from Aug12 to Sept 15 so I hope to maybe get the inspection done and on the road during this time. We'll see .

    Sean

  9. #9
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Looking good Sean. Let us know how you like the Lizard Skin, we are kicking it around for Dan's car to keep the floor cool since he won't have any carpeting.

    Don

  10. #10
    stylingZ is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Lizard skin!

     



    Quote Originally Posted by sgo70
    I've decided to spray Lizard skin noise and heat protection throughout the car. I have my '51 Chev pick-up that I'll probably do the same so that kind of justifies buying the spray gun for it. Unless there is a cheaper gun that works??

    I want to get the frame and body primed and painted this month so just a little more body work to do and that will be next. I have holidays from Aug12 to Sept 15 so I hope to maybe get the inspection done and on the road during this time. We'll see .

    Sean
    Sean, I used LS inside my 30 roadster, a light coat under the floor, and fairly thick under my running boards & fenders to hopefully prevent rock stars if that is possible. I had access to a Shultz spray gun and in my opinion (hindsight is always 20/20) using the LS gun would have worked better. I covered the LS with additional foil insulation. In a roadster it is hard to deaden sound so I mainly was hoping to eliminate as much heat transfer as possible. In your could ride I would use the foil insulation on top of the LS and put it everywhere inside and I'm sure you would be tickled pink. Keep up the good work.

  11. #11
    OFT
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    Your tire/wheel package is great looking!!! The seat's look good also. I bucked thousands of rivits (two of us) on enclosed car trailers. I agree that once you get a rythm going it goes faster than pop rivits. The pop rivits make it easier in hard to reach areas.

    Earl

  12. #12
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I've been stripping rust and paint for the last couple of weeks and I haven't felt like I've been making any progress until today. I sandblasted my frame and all my chassis parts, my engine block was hot tanked, and I sanded and wire wheeled my transmission getting everything ready to paint.
    I shot an etch primer on everything as it was down to the bare metal, then followed it up with some urethane fill primer and a sealer. Finally got to shoot the black on today, I used Dupont Centari like Don suggested a while back. I read a lot of horror stories about how hard it is to shoot as well as how bad it is for you, I was getting a little scared. I'm happy with the way it turned out....so far. I ran out when I was almost done, probably only need a half a cup more, oh well. I can actually see the reflection of the jackstands, I hope it stays that good.
    I shot it in my garage with plastice hanging up and my door part way open wearing a respirator and fully covered up head to toe. The fumes didn't seem to bother me but when I went in a couple of hours later to take pictures it was overwhelming. Gonna take weeks to get rid of that smell.
    I was thinking maybe I'll start re-assembling this week and put my engine together, I have an older friend that used to really be into hotrods that wants to help. Works for me! Just wondering how long I should let it harden before I start mesing with it.
    Tomorrow I'll go buy some more and touch up a few things and let it sit for the weekend.

    Sean
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  13. #13
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I was gonna ask Don, did you wetsand yours after you painted or just leave it. I do have some sections with very slight orange peel but it should be out of site.

    Sean

  14. #14
    sgo70's Avatar
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    My rear sure got fat tonight!!!

    I started putting things back together today, worked about 12 hours straight, this is for sure the fun part! Got my front end all put together and realized I didn't put any anti-seize on any of my four bars. I'm gonna change the Speedway bolts for grade eights anyways so I'll have to tag it and do it then.
    P9090603.JPG
    Mounted the M/C cause it was easy and then it was off to the rear. I went and bought about a hundred dollars worth of grade 8 bolts to do all my suspension with, it's funny how all the mock-up bolts go missing or change size . I drilled holes in my coil-overs and tapped in a locking screw but I still have to tighten them down once I make an adjuster wrench. I completely rebuilt my brakes, all hardware and cylinders etc...I want new drums but the store only had one so I have to go somewhere else cause he gave me the wrong pinion seal. I hate that!! Installed new Lokar e-brake cables while I was at it also.
    P9090606.JPG
    I've been waiting to put on my new wheels so this was the best part. I had to get some adapters cause I couldn't find the rims I wanted to fit my 9", so they sent me a Ford adapter with the Chevy lugs??? I had to cut the tops off my chrome Ford lugs to fit in the spacers. I was going to get new ones but I think they should still be okay, I'll think about that for a while. I stood back and looked at it with the new wheels and just started to giggle to myself, man is that wide, 84" in fact.

    I was on a roll so I put my shiftkit in my tranny and bolted on my new extra capacity aluminum pan. Hope it works, I won't know for a while.
    Today was really fun.

    Sean
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  15. #15
    sgo70's Avatar
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    I guess I haven't been keeping up with this build thread. I got my engine completed and mounted in the car as well as the tranny. I don't have recent pics as I wrapped it up while I was doing body work. Here's before I put on all the acessaries.

    Sean
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