Thread: New pinion and ring installation

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

pinion to far in that would be to far in the ring gear that would be DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDd

will this help you DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDd

I understand D,its the rest i am alittle fuzzy on.......

with all them Ds looks like one of my old report cards but i did ok in welding /auto /machine/ autobody and drag racing in the school parking lot i did get ex credit for that

Sooo,despite all the DDDDDDDs ,it looks more like what I currently have is C and in order to get B ,I need more donuts under P{the pinion bearing.}..Or less donuts under the p...?

Thnx,
I need to get some pinion shims now,I already have 2 carrier shim kits.I will take the time to get everything correct thnx to you guys!!!

P.S. I am getting dizzy looking at the photo shop pics /,everytime I go look at em there slightly different I was going "wow" I did not notice that before,I need to pay more attention.. Then I realized you were editing them inbetween my views
I have the 4.11:1 gears....

The chart that came with these gears is really confusing ,if you know a little about photography and study the angles and which side is the inside of ring and which side is the outside ,you will notice the three pics dont match
I understand completely what you are exsplaining Denny ,I am just trying to understand the books terminology
The left side of the coast pic is the inner ring ,the left side of the pic of the drive side is the ouside of ring,Then if you look at the hand drawing to the far left, it is drawn transposed ,basically if you look thru the sheet from the back of the drawing up against a light its then correct {like the old zerox 180 degreed everything it printed ,or transposed}
Which is completely confusing

that looks better she will climb up a bit under aload

a or b will do you should try to hit the old set up on the ring. i do not pay much on cost side just try to get a nice rounded off print in the center of the drive side of the gear just down from the top of the heel if the gear is run in used try to hit it were it was

sorry more like c you will have to mmmmmmmove it in am back wards to day

Originally Posted by DennyW

It's ok Pat. I just got my new glasses today, and boy, am I having fun right now.

yes i need some of them old people glasses

limpit or something like that he was a fish with radar???????

Originally Posted by DennyW

Yep, that's it.

can you make the noise that fish did?

My brain is making fish sounds!!!
Soo just to make sure..... The toe is the inner part of the ring,I am currently too far on the heel.In order to make the pattern move to the inner part of the ring,the pinion needs to travel closer to the back of the truck{more pinion shim}?
Thnx for the pics Denny,the ones from Richmond were lacking to say the least I now have a good reference of which side of the ring teeth are drive and coast ,what the correct gear mitre should look like,and how to achieve this.
Now I just need to remove and re-install Then start the checks over

PATTERN MOVEMENTS SUMMARIZED
...Pinion shims usually must be moved in .003 of an inch increments to notice a pattern change. If a pattern is heavy toe subtract shims. If a pattern is heavy heel add shims.
(1) Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to the pinion.

Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves slightly lower and toward the toe.

Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves lower and toward the toe

A little less backlash and a thicker pinion shim and I am on my way to checkin it all over again !!!THnx for the new pics and diagrams,its clear now.
You may not be here physically,but belive me your here helpin!!!!

Well....I have come to the realization that reading the mitre marks on the gears are a little more complex than I first imagined,I want to apologize for not getting 5 dollars worth of marking compound and posting these less than stellar mitre pics.
I am off to get the pinion shims and some of the correct gear marking compound.I will wash it all down with brake clean and use the marking compound to get some readable markings,so that no one has to get thicker glasses