Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Door striker
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    kcress's Avatar
    kcress is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Santa Cruz
    Posts
    193

    Door striker

     



    Hi I need to change the door striker on a 86 Suburban. You know, the little rod that sticks out of the door jam and needs a large torks to loosen. Thing is it is essentially a floating self jamming nut on the back - inside the door frame. As I loosen the sucker I start worrying that maybe if I competely unscrew the stop that the nut inside will fall down inside the frame and I will have one of those Doh! moments that stretches into a Doh! day or weekend.

    Does anyone know what will happen or how to change this thing?


    Second related question. One day the door just started bouncing open not latching correctly. Endless adjustment of the previously mentioned stop seemed to make absolutely no difference. Subsequently I was told that "Oh that's your door hinge bushings. Replace them and the door will shut correctly again." I am somewhat puzzled as the door seems to operate fine with no squeaks, or grinds, or dropping down, etc. The only other thing is that now it seems the door moves under your arm even when actually shut.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Blow by's Avatar
    Blow by is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Truckee
    Car Year, Make, Model: 53 Willys Pickup 29 Ford Sedan
    Posts
    225

    Sometimes also if you are lucky and the striker has worn you maybe able to turn it quarter a turn so that it is hitting new material.Have also put on some rubber tubing to get by till you get to replace the old one.

  3. #3
    kcress's Avatar
    kcress is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Santa Cruz
    Posts
    193

    Thanks Denny and Blow by.

    I have tried rotating it several times.
    I'll check the play at the halfway point.

    I will also try pulling the stop pin then... fingers crossed.

    Blow by, THAT is my favorite color by the way on your Willys.

  4. #4
    kcress's Avatar
    kcress is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Santa Cruz
    Posts
    193

    Just so you guys know... There is no metal box and the inside threaded plate drops way down inside the box frame... )*&%(^)%!!! !!! !

    But! You can pull off the inside plastic molding and there is an access hole that someone with a smaller arm then me can stick their hand down thru the wiring and fish it back out. Then there is an access hole up at the top (middle) that lets you place it correctly and re-thread the door stop into it.

    So.. The proper technique would be to remove the inside door molding,(this would probably hold for any J or K series chassis and probably others too), and then hold the threaded backing plate with your fingers while you remove and replace the door stop. Then replace the molding. Thereby avoiding the fishing for the dropped plate procedure.

    BTW: This actually fixed the entire badly shutting door and wiggling door problems. It was the missing plastic ring. I never noticed it as missing. If you look at the other doors it is hard to see there actually is a ring.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink