Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Do I need a driveshaft loop?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 15

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
    Posts
    3,890

    The second version will be stronger.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  2. #2
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    I agree it will be stronger,but how strong do you need it? On this mod ,i think accessability to the trans out weighs a "HEAVY DUTY" loop.This is pretty much a daily driver right?Not a strictly strip car.You could even use 2 tubes angled back on bottom,and maybe 1-2 on top to acheive the "heavy duty" loop.I am just saying you don't have to go the usual route ,build what you need.
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 11-14-2006 at 11:30 AM.

  3. #3
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    If you are going to bolt it in ,trans access is no big deal ,if welding it in you better leave plenty of room!! I think the tubular one would match the frame better and looks seem to be a big part of the objective on these cars. Some of the mods on my truck will be strictly for looks and some strictly for safety.
    My opinion on things like this are ,if you have to add ,make or buy a part you might as well make looks part of the process.If you have to replace or buy a part that you do not have and its already costing 50-70 bucks ,I have no problem throwing another 50-70 bucks at it to make it look good also.

    I would also make sure when you bolt something to a tubular structure you use a metal ferrul in the hole as to not collapse the tubing any at all.Round tubing looses its structural integrity when it gets collapsed or dented.If you use a 1/2 inch bolt ,drill a hole big enuff for 1/2 id piece of metal to pass thru the hole to keep the tubing from deforming from the pressure of the clamping force of the bolt.Ideally you would weld that ferrul into the tubing to make a flat flush area to tighten the nut and washer down to ,rather than a round surface under the washer and bolt,they make a specific tubing spacer/washer deal just for nuts and bolts on tubing.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink