Thread: FUBAR - again - How to drill carbide?

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Kitz is right....if the part is relatively easy to carry, take it to a
machine shop that burns out taps...they do it regularly. It may
not affect the threads but you can always install a helicoil.

Also, most ez-outs are not carbide....a carbide piece would be
pretty expensive......usually they are just harder than heck.
You might try a real carbide drill if you can get it started. A real
carbide drill (not a carbide coated cheapo) is available from the
big supply houses. You'll have to have a good flat starting spot and
you will probably not be able to center punch the starting location.

the true carbide, really tough, is also very brittle

I think it is carbide - it looks like file material where it broke off.

I have beat on it with a center punch, breaking off small pieces, to where it has a pretty good drill starting point now. But I don't have a bit that will chew on it.

I'm going to try a carbide bit next.

Cleveland Twist Drill lists their EZY OUT as being made of tool steel, not carbide. Greenfield lists theirs as tool steel also.....couldnt find a
carbide ezy out in the typical catalogs.....Sears stuff is ABSOLUTELY not
cabide....carbide is heavy, you notice it when you pick up a carbide drill or end mill.

mike in tucson

Cool - if they're tool steel, the carbide bits should get it.

Thanks - Bert

Hope you can set it up in a mill or drill press where you can
control the perpendicularity and pressure....use some cutting
oil on the bit. You just wish they sold an EZY OUT EZY OUT!!!

If it's broken off in a cast iron part, use a gas axe. The torch won't hurt cast iron, even if the ezee-out doesn't cut out the broken bolt will, releasing the ez.