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Thread: Need help and suggestions. *56k beware*
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    It sounds to me like you want to build this to pre-run engines before you install them into the actual car? If so, all you are doing in essence is building the front half of a T bucket without suspension or a body behind.

    A freind of mine had his brother in law living with him for a while, and he wanted to build one of these, but he had very few tools (no welder, chop saw, etc) so he built one out of wood. When my buddy told me about it, I thought "this must REALLY be a piece of work. " But when I saw it, the darned thing was amazing. His brother in law was a really crafty guy, and he used 4 x 4's for the main structure, joined it together with the joist straps they use in attics, and put castors on the thing. I was shocked that it actually looked so good. He mounted a radiator, tach, oil pressure and temp gauges, had an electric box fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool. He used a rear engine plate he bought from Jegs to support the rear. It worked great.

    I mention this because they don't have to be elaborate. All you need are two main rails that simulate frame rails, some cross members, some means to mount your radiator and gauges, and motor mounts and rear mount. Without a welder you could drill holes in the tubing and bolt it together. If you plan on doing more than one brand engine you can build it so Ford, Chevy, etc mounts all have a place to bolt on, giving you flexibility. I started to build one a few years ago, then Hurricane Charlie took the roof off our old shop, so I scrapped it when we were forced to move out. Mine was made of simple 3 x 3 box tubing with angle iron uprights for the radiator, and 2 x 2 box for the rear support. Now I wish I had kept it.


    Don


    PS: Use a Ford starter solenoid to transfer the amps you are concerned about. Then your switch will handle it.
    Last edited by Itoldyouso; 07-12-2006 at 10:48 AM.

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