Need help and suggestions. *56k beware*

I know it has been a while since my last visit here, I have had so many things going on. Most of you probably don't remember me, but that's alright.

I am building an engine test stand and have NO welder, or cutting torch yet. I need to build something that will accomodate all of my testing needs,now and in the future. I have pics of what I have so far and need anyone who has built, worked on,worked with, and uses these on a normal basis. If you have any pics Please feel free to share them I need all the ideas I can get.

All is appreciated, Thanks
Bret Hager.

Here is what I started with,
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...s/01010058.jpg

And what I have built so far with a drill and a hacksaw, My first attempt at anything like this. I have never fabricated anything out of metal before. I hope it holds.
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...7-11-06020.jpg

The rest of it and my basic layout,
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...7-11-06021.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...7-11-06022.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...7-11-06024.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...7-11-06019.jpg

By The Way,... This is and old mold and die Rack from an automotive factory. Very high weight capacity and very sturdy.

what are you going to do with exhaust? I would get some cheap flex pipe and run them throug the wall, and use some sort of a round dryer vent with a flapper valve, there insulated for heat anyway so that would be safe.

That's something like what I had planned on, I was thinking about using home HVAC ducting but wanted to find out more on it's heat resistance capabilities.I was also thinking of running mufflers before the wall so they don't rust out. (I work at night and don't want angry neighbors beating down my door.) and on the outside having the Semi truck/tractor-like flanges to keep out insect, birds, water and in the winter,... the cold air too. If I tilt them up just enough to let the flaps close every time I should be ok. I want to run the exhaust under the rack and seal them in the wall, But I'm not sure what will be safe enough to keep the heat from the wall itself. The garage was built in the '60 and is wood and drywall.

Before I forget necessary info..


All of the rack itself (The Blue Parts) are welded together. The only thing that I can see will need welded is the arms for the clamshell mounts. Between that and getting the right size wire and a button that will hold up the amps to crank it over or bump it if I need to. I have a button, but I don't think it can handle it. I'm assuming 10 gauge wire will work?

The constant hot I have got no prob, as well as the obvious pos. to the starter and neg. to the block and frame. Anything I am forgetting?

I do plan on running two Air/Fuel gauges for carb tuning also, and Oil Press, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure and Vacuum gauges. As this is my first, I want to get all I need before I need it and don't have it.

It sounds to me like you want to build this to pre-run engines before you install them into the actual car? If so, all you are doing in essence is building the front half of a T bucket without suspension or a body behind.

A freind of mine had his brother in law living with him for a while, and he wanted to build one of these, but he had very few tools (no welder, chop saw, etc) so he built one out of wood. When my buddy told me about it, I thought "this must REALLY be a piece of work.:LOL: :LOL: " But when I saw it, the darned thing was amazing. His brother in law was a really crafty guy, and he used 4 x 4's for the main structure, joined it together with the joist straps they use in attics, and put castors on the thing. I was shocked that it actually looked so good. He mounted a radiator, tach, oil pressure and temp gauges, had an electric box fan in front of the radiator to keep it cool. He used a rear engine plate he bought from Jegs to support the rear. It worked great.

I mention this because they don't have to be elaborate. All you need are two main rails that simulate frame rails, some cross members, some means to mount your radiator and gauges, and motor mounts and rear mount. Without a welder you could drill holes in the tubing and bolt it together. If you plan on doing more than one brand engine you can build it so Ford, Chevy, etc mounts all have a place to bolt on, giving you flexibility. I started to build one a few years ago, then Hurricane Charlie took the roof off our old shop, so I scrapped it when we were forced to move out. Mine was made of simple 3 x 3 box tubing with angle iron uprights for the radiator, and 2 x 2 box for the rear support. Now I wish I had kept it.


Don


PS: Use a Ford starter solenoid to transfer the amps you are concerned about. Then your switch will handle it.

I would get a large fan that is at least 17" in diamater like a standard box fan, and mount it in front of the radiator. for a temp gauge you could get away with using a radiator cap with a thermometer on it, they sell them in summit, 6lbs-16 lbs I think, for around $20. as for a starter button, any momentary automotive grade switch should do, a 10 or 20 amp switch should do, if you want to go hi tec, you could order 1 of the ign panals from summit with the on off toggle switch and the rubber coated push button mounted on a nice aluminum panal as for the 10 ga wire, that will be plenty. as for the heat of the exhaust , I know there is heat resistant stuff you could use that will work, maby even wrapping the tubes in headder wrap, and then using a heat resistant insulation around it going thru the wall, maby like what they use to insulate furnace chimney's with ( the steel chimney's ), they get pretty hot, along with the headder wrap you should be good. and if u need quiet, get a stock muffler or a turbo muffler, they quiet up as you rev an engine up. and for fuel supply, an above deck portable fuel tank would work good.

I just took pics of what I got for the wiring, which I will upload soon. I went to the local Auto Zone and got everything I would need to duplicate the original GM Harness. Fusible links, inline fuse,new alternator plug, etc.. I want to do this right and make sure I have no wiring issues in the future. I do have a harness from a 1981 Elcamino that I have out and am going to duplicate. I also want to do this right and quality so that, if I ever need to in the future, it will have good resale value.

Anyone know of any that are being sold ,maybe you could get some good ideas.:D

Well I did find this, http://www.mightymount.com/ But it looks pretty basic. It doesn't seem to have near enough for all that could be required for the uses of a test stand. It did however, give me a few ideas from what littl they show of it.