Hybrid View
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06-02-2006 08:21 PM #1
Originally Posted by lt1s10
OK, so I swap places with the switch and the 10# residual valve? can the proportioning valve stay between the two without any problems?
Thanks again guys for the quick response!Last edited by braundc; 06-02-2006 at 09:58 PM.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same.
Ronald Reagon ~ Rest in Peace.
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06-02-2006 08:36 PM #2
the way a duel MC and proportioning valve works is, if a front or rear wheel cylinder blows out then the proportioning valve will shut off the pressure to the wheel that has the problem, so you can still stop on the good brakes. if you have the pressure switch in the rear line behind the proportioning valve and the rear blows out and the pressure is cut off to the rear wheels then you want have any break lights. to have brake lights all the time you will need 2 pressure switched at the MC or 1 elec. switch.Mike
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06-02-2006 09:57 PM #3
Originally Posted by lt1s10
thanks for the help.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same.
Ronald Reagon ~ Rest in Peace.
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06-03-2006 05:10 AM #4
we are probably talking about 2 dif. things. most factory GM cars put all this together and call it a combination valve. that would include the brake warning light, proportioning valve and the residual valves, but after i go back and read it i guess you don't have the warning light sw. (cut the pressure off if a cylinder fails )and thats the biggest reason to have a duel MC, so if one wheel blows out, the combination valve will cut the pressure off to that wheel, and you can keep on driving. i put a drawing in with this that show the cutoff valve. you don't have to have it, but without it you don't need the duel MC. see if the drawing helps any.Mike
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06-03-2006 06:03 AM #5
see if this makes more sense.Mike
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06-03-2006 09:52 AM #6
Originally Posted by lt1s10
Here are the components I have attempted to install...
part # WIL260-8419
part #'s WIL-260-1876 for the red 10lbs, and WIL-260-1874 for the blue 2lbs
(T Performance) part # BS1915
... and below are a couple pics of what (sounds like the all-in-one you mentioned) I pulled out (I cleaned it up for the pic)...
Last edited by braundc; 06-03-2006 at 09:57 AM.
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same.
Ronald Reagon ~ Rest in Peace.
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06-03-2006 08:56 PM #7
Originally Posted by braundc
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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06-08-2006 04:20 PM #8
Originally Posted by braundc
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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06-03-2006 12:50 PM #9
Originally Posted by braundc
REAR
MC to
brake line switch, to
prop. valve, to
10 lbs residual valve, to
flexline w/Tee, to
the rear brakes. Will this work?
FRONT
MC to
residual valve, to
Tee fitting, to rigid, then
front flex lines to
calipers...
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same.
Ronald Reagon ~ Rest in Peace.
John's ride to the cemetery, his beloved Billings OK bus, The Baby Elephant!! Traveling in style!! As his service was starting I couldn't figure out what the music was, heavy on a flute in a jaunty...
John Norton aka johnboy