Thread: brake plumbing questions for my T bucket

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Originally Posted by lt1s10

i agree! with a duel MC you need a switch on both lines also.

it's a tandem MC, does that make a difference?
OK, so I swap places with the switch and the 10# residual valve? can the proportioning valve stay between the two without any problems?

Thanks again guys for the quick response!

the way a duel MC and proportioning valve works is, if a front or rear wheel cylinder blows out then the proportioning valve will shut off the pressure to the wheel that has the problem, so you can still stop on the good brakes. if you have the pressure switch in the rear line behind the proportioning valve and the rear blows out and the pressure is cut off to the rear wheels then you want have any break lights. to have brake lights all the time you will need 2 pressure switched at the MC or 1 elec. switch.

Originally Posted by lt1s10

the way a duel MC and proportioning valve works is, .

does the same logic apply with a tandem MC as on the Dual? I thought a proportioning valve adjusted the fluid flow to the drums to even out the front-to-rear braking? thanks for the help.

we are probably talking about 2 dif. things. most factory GM cars put all this together and call it a combination valve. that would include the brake warning light, proportioning valve and the residual valves, but after i go back and read it i guess you don't have the warning light sw. (cut the pressure off if a cylinder fails )and thats the biggest reason to have a duel MC, so if one wheel blows out, the combination valve will cut the pressure off to that wheel, and you can keep on driving. i put a drawing in with this that show the cutoff valve. you don't have to have it, but without it you don't need the duel MC. see if the drawing helps any.

see if this makes more sense.

Originally Posted by lt1s10

most factory GM cars put all this together and call it a combination valve. that would include the brake warning light, proportioning valve and the residual valves,

That sounds alot like what I removed from the T when I did the upgrades...


Here are the components I have attempted to install...
part # WIL260-8419

part #'s WIL-260-1876 for the red 10lbs, and WIL-260-1874 for the blue 2lbs

(T Performance) part # BS1915

... and below are a couple pics of what (sounds like the all-in-one you mentioned) I pulled out (I cleaned it up for the pic )...

Originally Posted by braundc

That sounds alot like what I removed from the T when I did the upgrades...


Here are the components I have attempted to install...
part # WIL260-8419

part #'s WIL-260-1876 for the red 10lbs, and WIL-260-1874 for the blue 2lbs

(T Performance) part # BS1915

... and below are a couple pics of what (sounds like the all-in-one you mentioned) I pulled out (I cleaned it up for the pic )...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake2.htm read this braundc, maybe it will make more sense. what you have is what i would put on my round track race car. the valve you took off is what i would have used on my st. rod. so i would have the "The pressure differential valve" that you dont have now.

Originally Posted by braundc

does the same logic apply with a tandem MC as on the Dual? I thought a proportioning valve adjusted the fluid flow to the drums to even out the front-to-rear braking? thanks for the help.

it does do that kind of, it lessens the preassure to the rear drums to accomadate for drum brake self energization, a dual proportioning valve can be comsidered a combination valve, there is the prop valve and a preassure differential switch in it ( maby more depending on how many valves and what valves the brake system needs ) which the preassure differential switch will light up the red brake light and shuts off flow of the side with the preassure drop

Originally Posted by braundc

OK, so I swap places with the switch and the 10# residual valve? can the proportioning valve stay between the two without any problems?

Thanks again guys for the quick response!

Now the order goes like this...
REAR
MC to
brake line switch, to
prop. valve, to
10 lbs residual valve, to
flexline w/Tee, to
the rear brakes. Will this work?
FRONT
MC to
residual valve, to
Tee fitting, to rigid, then
front flex lines to
calipers...