Thread: Chassis paint and assembly

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Finally got the chassis painted up and re-assembled. I've started running the brake and fuel lines this week. I still have a couple of things I need to fabricate for the power steering pump and tensioner pulley. Getting close to the end of the chassis work.

Dean

Lookin' sweet Weeg. How long till the body goes on?

Stu Cool, I will probably set the body back on the frame next week to check for drive shaft/tunnel clearances. Then, probably a quick run to the exhaust shop to get the "lemming" Flowmaster exhaust system installed.

Will have to pull the body back off to do some final sheet metal work, build hangers for the Air/Heat, steering column hanger and firewall passthrough, set mounts/seat belt. Maybe will have the underbody and firewall painted within a month or two, and back on chassis for the final time, I hope.

Dean

Thanks Weeg for the update on the Stude, its lookin' great. Its neat to follow the progress on it. I can't remember but do you have the color scheme picked out yet?

Larry

Dean I really like what you have done with the chassis... The big Americans are going to really set the Stude off...

Dave Brisco

Your right Streets, a clean shop does make for a better job of building. I don't know what is in that sawdust shop sweep, but it sure does shine up the old concrete floor. Gets all that small dusty stuff too that the broom just won't pick up.

Yeah Larry, I do have the color scheme figured out for the car. It is going to be a newer Toyota color. Don't know what they call it, just have to color code, but it is a 3 stage, sort of a bright rusty red color that highlights bronze. I will also paint the fiberglass dash the same color and fabricate a fiberglass center down the length of the console painted body color also. The interior will be a saddle tan leather with some dark saddle inserts cut in.

Dave, I've always liked five spoke wheels on my cars. Old school I guess, but I do like the looks of the newer larger diameter wheels, just not too large for the older cars. If ya noticed, there are two more up on the bench behind the chassis still in the box, 18 inchers, just in case. I like to see the top of the wheel lined up with the bottom of the wheel well opening. From the times I've had the rear fenders on it, I think I will need the 18 inchers on the rear of the car.

Dean

Very nice!!! I love the simple yet effective setup in the rear. One question though. Is that the brake master cyl mounted sideways behindt the drivers' side front wheel and if so are you planning to shield it in some way?

Abe
P.S. I really love looking at these chassis shots, it helps give me some clue of what I'm about to undertake.

LOL Streets, it only used to be an old farm studebaker. It now gona be a city-fied old studebaker. Those meds must be kicking in really well!!!! You have a PREEEEEEEEEEEEEScription for all of 'em???

Abe, the booster/master cylinder will be covered by a stock fenderwell spash pan. It will be completely out of site when the splash pan is on. The spash pan is fastened with five bolts into clips, so it is easy to get access to the booster/master if needed.

Dean

Weeg. I presume you use some sort of belcrank setup to make it work. Is this right?

If it's not too much trouble I'd like to see the brake linkage-unusual mechanical devices fascinate me.

Abe

Dean, the "floor sweep" you described is probably a sawdust/wax mixture. The wax does a good job of holding the dust, and there's some transferance to the floor surface.

It's the same principle as the car duster "mops", wax impregnated cotton.

Nice, nice job on the chassis.

Good lookin chassis, looks like some real thought went into the setup. Wheels will look great on an old Stude. Great work, Weeg