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I know exactly what you mean Perley.
When I get home this afternoon I will disassemble mine and show you all the parts.
Sounds as if you are missing a part inside where the rod attaches to the plunger/piston. My rod and plunger are one unit and the rod snaps in the plunger if I remember correctly. There is also a C-clip on the outside of the MC housing that holds it all together when assembled. I'll get back with you this afternoon.
Larry
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OK Perley here ya go ol'buddy:)
First pic shows the whole thing assembled with the C-clip holding the piston in place in the housing.
Second pic is the whole unit out of the housing.
I tried to remove the rod from the piston/plunger but no luck getting it apart this time. I honestly believe there is a snap clip inside the piston that holds the rod in place. May be metal or it may be plastic.
The forth pic is the length of the rod after installed (5-7/8")and the fifth one is the overall length(10-1/2") of the whole assembly.
Maybe try to disassemble yours and try pushing the rod into the piston to see if it snaps in place and then measure it.
The rubber boot is only a dust cover.
I hope this helps Perley.
Maybe someone else on here may have a pic of a brakedown of the master cylinder disassembled showing a better picture. Or you may try one of the auto parts store locally and see if the have a pic of it.
Larry
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Holy Cow Larry, you got more scars on your hand than I do. Hard to believe! Thank you so kindly for all your trouble taking that thing apart. Sooooo, I assume then that the M/C came with the op rod already attached? The one I bought does not! hmmmmm.
I wonder if mine is intended to be a part of a power brake combo and attaches to a vacuum unit???? hmmmm. Guess I better box it back up and see about swapping for another! What was your unit, what was it designed for all all that, please? Again thanks much Larry. Perley
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The unit I bought is a Cardone 10-1612 from Advance Auto Parts. It says for manual brakes. But it doesn't show a push rod and didn't come with one, nor does it look like there is any way to attach one to it! :HMMM: :(
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:LOL:Yeah, that hand has been through some tough times, crushed, broke, major nerve damage.....etc,:HMMM: but praise be to God it still works, almost as good as the right one.:D
The master cylinder I am using is from a stock 1988 Ranger with a 4 banger in it. No power booster. It came off the old truck I tore apart a couple of years ago that I was going to build a circle track truck from. Have no idea what I was thinking then.:eek: Must have been crazy.:LOL:
My push rod looks like it goes in the plunger about an inch and moves around freely.
Ask for a 88 Ranger M/C and look at it before you purchase it.:rolleyes:
Just kidding.......hehehehehhe
Larry
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heeeheeee. Yup, that's me! Wellll, I actually did look at this one. That's not to say that I knew what I was looking at or for! haahaaa. I actually have the one from my old '88. But it has a plastic res(sp) so I opted out, but maybe I'm opting back in. I'll paint the plastic silver, no one will know! haahaa. Thanks ole Friend.
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Yep, use what cha ya got I say. Beats the heck out of spending money on something ya already have. :D
Besides aint nothin wrong with plastic:HMMM: long as it dont leak.:3dSMILE:
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Hi Guys, maybe I can help a little...
Crazyrat - A few posts back you said you have about 1 1/2" clearance around your transmission. There's nothing wrong with having plenty of clearance, but if things are tight in there you can gain some space by cutting that clearance down to about 1/2 - 3/4 inch; that's all you really need.;) You also mention a "tunnel frame"... You really don't need that either. When you bend your tunnel it's like half a tube and, when welded to the floor on either side, it and the floor become very stiff and self-supporting. I have attached a pic of the floor in my coupe. It is made from 18 gauge steel (old shelving material) and is very stiff. There is no extra framework under it.:cool:
Crazyrat and Perley - The master cylinders in my coupe and roadster are very similar to the one Perley has. Although one is from a 1985 Mustang and the other from a 1968 Chevelle, neither of them has a positive retainer to keep the pushrod in the master cylinder. It stays in there because the pedal can't come back far enough to let it fall out. That's the way they were in the original installations (and so it is in most cars). In both of my cars (and several I have built previously) I assemble the M/C and pedal in the car and then weld a stop somewhere so the pedal can not come back far enough to let the pushrod fall out. The stop also provides a place for me to mount the brake light switch. If I need to get the pushrod out for any reason, I have to remove either the M/C or the brake pedal. Hope this helps.:3dSMILE:
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Hey Jim, I appreciate what you have said here. Make sense to me. When I get the motor and tranny back in I will rethink that tunnel. My cab is channeled almost 8 inches so reworking the tunnel may be a big improvement as far as room is concerned. This being my first build I am always open to new ideas and suggestings.
Thanks again Jim.
Larry
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Since I am on vacation this week:D I have time to start on my floor boards and tunnel. This is what I got done so far this week. If all goes good I should have all the floor finished.:3dSMILE:
Larry
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looking good, now l gotta get my rear in gear and get my frame finished.
later
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Real nice work on the interior, Rat! Cars looking good!
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Thanks guys, hopefully I will have it finish by Friday. I'm amazed how solid the body is getting just by putting the floor in it.:D Being the first build for me I guess you guys know how things work but it amazes me anyway.:LOL:
Aww... the simple things of life.:)
Larry
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Finished the floorpans today.:3dSMILE: Will get the firewall done tomorrow and then I can pull the body back off the frame to do the finish welding underneath. I ended up with more foot room than I thought I would have. A big plus there.:toocool:
Also sent the tranny off this week to have a friend go through it and check it out for me before I go a purchase a driveshaft. No need wasting that money on a driveshaft if I have to change trannys.
Hopefully I can get this thing on the road by spring.:D One large problem I may have is finding a title for a 46 truck, anyone got one they arent using???
Larry
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That's looking really good; I like the column brace.
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Thanks, got to finish the firewall now. The column drop was a gift from DMW56 from New Mexico.
Larry
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Fabricated the tank mount also this week. Used 18 gage to make it. Also will glue two strips of rubber on the mounts for a tight fit.
Larry
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Are you going to build your own gas tank too?
I'm taking the 25 gal stainless out of mine and am going to make something smaller.
Also what about hi build primer. I hear it covers a lot of pits and cracks.
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I'm using a 15.5 gal SS keg. Kinda rough but its a rat tank:D
Larry
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happy new year!! very good job!
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Back at cha jej and thanks, Happy New Year!!!
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Hey Crazyrat, looking great! I haven't been on hear in a while, so I just got caught up on your build. Makes me want to fire up the torch and build something...... Oh, thats right, still have to finish a Studebaker first,LOL!
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Found a tool box at the Army/Navy Surplus Friday. $12.00 for a old field generator toolbox. Couldn't have made a better fit if I had made it myself. A quick trip through the glass blaster and a coat of primer. Looks good to me.:3dSMILE:
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Very nice work... Well done..
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Thanks no limits.
I got the battery box built and installed today. Had to mount it on the frame rail due to the fact that if I put it on the firewall as planned I wouldn't be able to pull my dipstick from the tranny or the oil pan. And would also have to remove the battery any time I needed to change the spark plugs. So the frame rail was the most likely place. It sets the battery down low and clears everything now with short cables to the starter. A plus there.:D
Larry
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Should work fine, Rat. Lower is always better, especially with something heavy like a battery! Your build up is coming along great, btw!!!!
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Thanks Dave.
I got the driveshaft make last week and had a new pinion seal put in the rearend.
I am hoping I can test fire the engine in the next week or so to see what its going to need. I dont know if it need rebuilding or is good as is. Hopefully just some fresh paint, new oil and a tune up but wont know till I fire it up.
I had the tranny rebuild a couple of weeks ago and bought a new convertor also.
Alot of little things to do yet.
Wish me luck.
Larry
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Looks great! Solid and versatile.:3dSMILE:
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Well today was the day she came to life. Got her fired up and she runs good. :D
Will need to do a valve job and put in some new gaskets. Also will replace the cam and lifters in the near future. :cool:
But all in all the motor runs great.:toocool:
Larry
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Great going Larry! Congratulations. You're waaayy ahead of meee! Perley
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Whooohoo congrat Larry! It's a great feeling,huh!:D
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Congratulations! Always great to hear one fire up for the first time... Just wait 'til you drive it around the block for the first time! Heh, heh.
You're ahead of me now; I've been stalled on my roadster since last summer because of home improvement projects...
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:LOL:Its like that feeling when your first child was born, Now what do i do:confused::LOL:
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Pulled the cam and lifters yesterday. :eek: Not so good. Cam is worn out and all the lifters but one are dished really back. Good new I was planning on replacing both anyway. Will do a freshen up on the vavles while I have it apart too. Got the tops of the pistons and blocked cleaned also.
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Piston tops look good; looks like there weren't any detonation problems. I saw you had it running; that's great! Did you take it down the road yet?
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I only wish.....LOL No, its a long ways from that yet.
I just wanted to get the motor running to see if I was going have to rebuild it or just do a cam change. The bottom end sounds good and the piston walls show no wear to be worried over. So a valve job and cam kits is in store for the near future. Still got to run the brake lines, wiring...etc.
Then blow it back apart and get some paint on it. Got to be inspected for vin and title also.
Tons to do.
Larry
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Yeah, I guess brake lines would be nice for the maiden voyage.
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:LOL: Great mind do think alike. :D
Too late to play Fred Flintstone, already got the floors in now dang it...:3dSMILE:
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Gee, all them OEM parts worn out like that, now you'll probably end up with a bunch of go-fast goodies.....What fun is that????**):LOL::LOL: