Thread: fox mustang parts and 460 swap parts.

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

If you can, use one of the tubular crossmember kits. It not only frees up some weight, but gives you so much more header clearance, too. We did one on our Capri that I was building as a 460 car, and they are terrific.

Just thought I'd pass that along for what it is worth.


Don

cool Thanks! do you remember what mount you used? and do you have to use an aftermarket cross member? i would like to use the stock one if possible, i am trying to build this car as cheap as possible.

I think it is a D and D Motorsports or something like that. They had a booth at the NMRA Ford National a few years ago, and we bought it there. I think about $ 250.00, but well worth it, especially when you lift the stock one then lift this one. It bolted on just like stock, and the one we bought has spring pockets to use stock type coil springs, but you can also get it without pockets to use coil over springs.

I eventually sold the Capri back to my one Son (He has owned it e 3 times and I have owned it twice........we keep selling it to each other. He owns it now) We had a hard time trying to get the drag springs in place, so he scrapped that plan and bought coil overs and tubular A arms. It looks really trick, and is way lighter. The real benefit is the extra room it gives you down below for 460 headers.

As for building it on the cheap.........the words 460 Fox and cheap don't fit in the same sentence. I had a ton of money in just the parts I bought to do the swap, not to mention the fortune I have in the 466 motor now sitting idle on an engine stand. I sold off all the Fox swap stuff, because my Son is going the 347 or similar small block route. But. it is cheap to do in the respect that you can get such brutal horsepower out of a mild or sort of mild 460 that it would take alot more to get a 5.0 to produce similar performance.

However, if you shop wisely (I bought JetHot Coated Hooker Super Headers for $ 250.00, new at a swap meet) and take your time, you can save some money. And 460's look like they belong in that engine bay.

Good luck,


Don

cool, how about master cylinder clearance? any issues ther i will have to deal with? i really appreciate the advice!!

Yep, buy one of the kits made of a block of aluminum to get rid of the brake booster, then a simple manual master cylinder mounts to that. It eliminates the valve cover to master cylinder clearance problem, and moves it slightly to the left.

I will be at the shop tomorrow PM after work, and will shoot you some pictures of the Capri engine bay. You will be able to see how much room you gain with the tube crossmember and the master cylinder kit. I'll post tomorrow night for you.


It is kind of like putting 10 lbs of something in a 5 lb bag, but it makes an awesome swap. Yeah, it is a little nose heavy, and all that, but the kick in the middle of your back when you stomp it kind of makes up for all that. Oh, you will probably need a 3 inch hood to clear the intake, too.


Don

If you like 460's, go to http://www.460ford.com/


There, after 30 trys I got it to paste right.


Oh, and you need to take a sledgehammer and bang in the top of the trans tunnel a little to get the C6 to clear the floor. Nothing drastic, just a couple of places interfer.

AWESOME! thank you!! i will check tommarow for the pics! Thanks again!

Hey Thunder, I stopped after work tonight and shot you a few pix of the Capri that I set up originally to hold the 460. You don't need all of the stuff shown in the pictures, but it sure makes getting it in there a whole lot easier, especially with headers and all.

The first picture shows the adapter I mentioned that gets rid of your power brake booster, and converts it to manual brakes. If you buy one, get the kit that includes the pushrod. Some don't have it, and you have to modify yours.

Some of the pictures show the D and D crossmember. Compare this picture to your stock crossmember, and you will see how much clearance you pickup in the pan and header area.

Other shots are of the coil overs my Son added. I originally set it up for Moroso coil springs, but he bought taller springs, and we had fits trying to get them in, so he finally just went to coil overs. I have to admit, they look trick, and will probably transfer weight better. The car will see limited street use, so these should work ok.

One shot shows the tubular lower a arms he added at the same time. He has more money than me, what can I say?

Hope these give you some idea of what you can do. By the way, also be sure to buy one of the Battle Box kits to reinforce your lower control arm torque boxes, as these can get torn out real quick with sticky tires and some decent horsepower. Also, add subframe connectors. After we added ours, you can now jack up one corner and the whole car lifts up, no more flex in the chassis.

If you have any more questions, just yell.


Don

You can only post 5 pictures so here is the final one. I shows pretty well how much room you have compared to stock.


Don

PS: We also are running a manual steering rack, similar to a Flaming River. We thought we would work on our biceps while we were at it. lol