Thread: Dbc

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I used dbu on the first car I painted when I was just out of high school probably in 1989 on my 1980 olds cutlass. Used the nct clear because it was before I went to tech school and I didn't know much about painting, didn't realize it was more of a spot clear. It turned out decent after a little buffing. Still have two quarts of Corvette metallic grey from then, was gonna do some two tone thing, but never got around to it. I doubt the reactive reducer being that old is any good, but the paint isn't hardened up in the can. I used the nct up on some underhood parts a few years ago. The clear was yellowed quite a bit, but the activator still seemed to harden it up, but it was only on some parts inside so I didn't care if it was any good yet or not. Hard to believe the activator for the clear wasn't all hardened up after all that time. I used some of it on a model i put together too. With the way prices of paint went up I normally use the cheaper lines unless I have something where I need a really close color match. I did a few sidejobs and no one wants to spend the money that the good stuff costs. Painted a spoiler and trunk lid for a kid and told him to get dbc so would be assured of a good match, it was a blue pearl and was $80 a pint. Can get a whole gallon of the cheap stuff in most colors for around that price. I used the dcu 2020 clear on a cougar I painted and really liked that clear. I think they replaced it and it is 2021 or something now. I don't have any way to bake the clear, but most I use now, I try to get wetsanding and buffing on it the next day before it gets real hard, lot less work getting wetsanding scratches out if your carefull. Haven't seen the clears dull back out when buffing the next day.