Thread: whats a good price on a paint job

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i'm waiting on proof. i've been in this business for 40 years and have never heard this. if i thought for a moment shrink and wrinkle was the only brand i would retire tomorrow . if they make such great paint for ppg and others why is their own line so sorry.

Originally Posted by shine

i'm waiting on proof. i've been in this business for 40 years and have never heard this. if i thought for a moment shrink and wrinkle was the only brand i would retire tomorrow . if they make such great paint for ppg and others why is their own line so sorry.

Since ppg was mentioned, check out the toners of their Deltron offering, do not be surprised that more than half of them are not, I repeat not produced by ppg in a PPG owned plant. yes, PPG does make quite a bit of their own coatings, but when it comes to certain automotive lines/toners/reducers, again, you would be quite surprised.

Just like East--woods brand is not produced by them, but relabeled from several other manufacturer lines (low,low end stuff regardless of how they market it).

Bill S.

PS: Dupont and Sherwin Williams also buy product from one another s manufacturing lines...And again, we are talking strictly automotive refinishing products here, toners, pearls, reducers, hardeners specifically

PSS: For those who doubt, ask yourself this, have you ever known me to post rumor or innuendo......You have to go way up on their food chain to get proof, not one of them will publicly state it or even acknowledge it for that matter, but that does not make it untrue.

Did that work, Roger?

Originally Posted by randyr

Did that work, Roger?

Yes! Thanks for sending the updated link. I'd been looking at those blocks, even looked at them at GG Des Moines but this is a better deal!

roger, think about making your own blocks. i've found cardboard tube and hardwoods make excellent blocks. i have around 20 blocks i've made over the years. several to sharpen body lines . i have one that will hold 2 sheets of board paper that i used on the big boats of the 60's . impala qrt panels were a real pia to do .

Originally Posted by shine

roger, think about making your own blocks. i've found cardboard tube and hardwoods make excellent blocks. i have around 20 blocks i've made over the years. several to sharpen body lines . i have one that will hold 2 sheets of board paper that i used on the big boats of the 60's . impala qrt panels were a real pia to do .

Shine, what do you use on the curves of the fat fendered Fords?

Originally Posted by randyr

Shine, what do you use on the curves of the fat fendered Fords?

not shine but a will add my two cents . i have made up some board s and sanding block s wood and 1/4 plate aluminum round off all corners the block should feel like a old bar of soap in you hand .on board s never make some thing you can not hang on to for a long time as you need it to work but not bulky to work with. when you could get thick flat paint stick s we used them in the 220 wet sanding part of the job. then med hard bock then soft pad all the time using a guide coat threw evey sanding set . starting the body work with long board s hard then a flex long boad cross sanding the body panles at 45 angles .i done many round things this way always work for me

hey guys whats a good brand of sealer and i noticed there is a guy around the corner for me some of his work is good and some is b/s like i was looking down the side of one of his trucks that he finished and it look like he had bloches down the side of it kinda like where there might have been little rockchips along the side of the truck and he put eaither filler or some bondo in and and didnt get it sanded down enough before he painted it and it looks like sh** i dont want mine to turn out like that at all

Whats a good brand of adhesive sand paper for the durablocks? Also what grits would you guys recogmend? Thanks.

Originally Posted by stovens

Whats a good brand of adhesive sand paper for the durablocks? Also what grits would you guys recogmend? Thanks.

Steve - I never use anything but a good wet 'n' dry paper and used wet. The adhesive stuff is, IMO, a pain for anything but a D-A or grinder. Once the block is wet, it wont stick anyhow.

Paper - 80 to 2500, Norton or Mirka, then if they aren't easily available, the overpriced and , IMO, lesser quality, 3m.

These are just some of my blocks. My favorites are some I made up from some 1/2" closed cell neoprene foam I had left over. I glued 2-3 pieces together just for some additional thickness - there are some single thicknesses shown in the photo, RHS plus some different diameters of rubber tubing. Then wood blocks - oak or maple

Sanding-blocks.jpg

Thanks Dave. I bought a similar set almost two years ago and have never used them. Our local store has wet dry paper, so I guess that's what I'll endup using. The adhesive stuff is very expensive!

I've been told to always prime bare metal, apply any filler and then to sand filler/bondo dry because it wicks moisture like a sponge and takes forever to dry out. One reason to always prime first, then fill, then prime again. Filler over bare metal makes a future rust pocket. Is my understanding correct, from others experience?

always epoxy first then filler . added protection and adhesion.

and remember not all epoxies are the same.

Originally Posted by shine

always epoxy first then filler . added protection and adhesion.

and remember not all epoxies are the same.

And you sand filler dry, shine, ending with ~220?

I just got done finishing the my 1950 Ply wagon in epoxy primer. When I got the car 5 yrs. ago, the body was largely bare metal. I did the necessary welding of new metal (lots of it) and then procedded to apply an good coat of PPG epoxy primer.
I finished all the bondo work and the glazing to fill in minor pin holes. This was 4 yrs. ago. Now advance to present day.
After taking the time to get the chassis done and other things, I got back to to the body. I took more time to finish sand and any bare metal was shot with epoxy primer. I sanded the whole car and existing parts with 80 grit, then 180, then 320. Then applied 3 good coats of Dupont filler primer which filled in any remaining scratches.
I let that dry for one full day then wet sanded the whole car again in 400 wet to remove all orange peel. Now i got it all re- taped up and applied the final coat of Dupont epoxy primer. The filler primer must be top coated with an epoxy as it will wick moisture if driven in all types of weather.
I am driving the car in primer for a year before I put it in color to make sure if there are any problems down the road, they can be fixed without screwing up a nice paint job.
Some may think this is alot of un-necessary time and work but anyone who has done paint and body knows that a paint job is 95% preparation and 5% shooting the paint. That goes for primer or final coats.
Also besides the time involved which I figured to be about 70-80 hrs of prep work, I also spent about $900 on materials.
$400 of that was just in the past week for filler primer at $225 a gal + activator and $180 for a gal. of epoxy primer and hardener. Not to mention the cost of sandpaper, bondo, glazing putty,welding wire, etc.
I have an good friend who has a custom paint shop in my area. His work is beyond nice and he points me in the direction of how his shop would do the work I am doing.