Question 1 : has the finish been baked in a booth ?
If not the spot repair will be a bit easier as the clear spot will have a better chance of burning into the 2 week old clear , having a better chance of the edge not rolling back as fast when you lightly buff the edge out . But spotting in requires a bit of finesse if you have not done it much . I use a product called UPOL Fade out spray for melting my clear edge in at work ( Using PPG DBC & GLobal Clear ) . Works better in a heat makeup booth , instead of just letting it air dry .

Its easier to spot the color in and re-clear the whole panel if your a rookie painter . Blending is an art , as I have been around painters that have been in it for years and their blends sux . Also trying to keep the spot repair tight is very hard to do , as your gun has a 8" to 12" pattern and makes you try to choke the trigger to keep it tight , making for a dry thin build of material , making it even harder to lay it out smooth .

If you plan on polishing the car out alot by hand , in time you will eventually start rolling the clear edge back and it will show , and you will have to re-pair it again .
My diagnosis would be to spot the color & clear the whole roof including the 1/4s as I dont think you have a break line anywhere .

Aint painting FUN