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Thread: large paint problem.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    jyardgirl's Avatar
    jyardgirl is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    large paint problem.

     



    i started painting my monte metallic candy apple red. first panel went great. noticed on the second panel a small run. on the third panel paint statred splattering everywhere. looked down at the gun and it was dumping paint on the floor and shooting globs of it on the car. now i have large runs and it looks like the paint was dripped on. how do i fix this. i am very dissapointed. the gun is toast. my gun was a husky with the tank on the bottom. i would like to have a siphon feed hvlp gun. i only have $50.00 for the gun. can anyone recommend a gun for me that works well in that price range.
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    I'm sure some of the experienced painters on here will have their recommendations Barb, but I have been buying the gravity feed guns from Harbor Freight and getting good results from them. They are normally about $39.95, but they went on sale for $ 9.95 so I bought 5 of them. So far I painted everything on my T except the body, and everything on my Son's T except the body. Never got any runs or other problems. I had a $100 Sears gun and the HF ones did as good if not better.

    As for your problem, you are going to have to sand down and start over. You chose a tough color and paint to start with, reds are sort of translucent and hard IMO to get even.

    Don

  3. #3
    jyardgirl's Avatar
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    thank you so much don. i never thought to look there for a gun. do i have to sand all the paint off or just the bad areas down to make even?
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  4. #4
    Matt167's Avatar
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    just the third panal would need to be refinished completley most likely.. I have the HF siphon feed guns, and they work decent also.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  5. #5
    jyardgirl's Avatar
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    thanks matt. what do i do about the small run on the second panel. also what grit of paper do i use and should i do it wet or dry.
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  6. #6
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    One of the guys who paint more often can probably advise best Barb, but I personally would just level it out real good. As for the gun, I know Pros like to work with high dollar guns like Binks, etc, and I understand why. But for us home hobbyists the gravity feed guns from HF are really not bad at all.

    You mention a siphon gun, I got away from those years ago. The gravity feed guns (with the tank on top) are so much easier to use and clean up is a cinch. I used to dread cleaning out a gun after I was done, but these gravity models take like 5 minutes tops and every bit of paint comes out.

    Here are a couple of videos that may give you some ideas too. The second video starts out like the first one, but is different.

    http://video.aol.com/video-detail/ho...t-2/2781861135

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZ7zd...eature=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re9KC...eature=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5I-V...eature=related

    Don

  7. #7
    jyardgirl's Avatar
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    thanks don
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  8. #8
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    Sounds like you might have plugged the vent on the siphon feed thus "pressurizing" the can. I'll second the gravity feed recommendation, especially on a metallic, don't have any experience with the HF gun though.

    If you are using a metallic (single stage, not bc/cc?) you won't be able to just sand off the run and polish it and have it look "right". When you sand a metallic you not only sand the paint film you also sand the suspended flake, changing it's shape. You'll end up with, for want of a better word, blotches. The other comment would be about doing a metallic, especially if it's truly a candy (although that word is also used to decribe a brilliance rather than the traditional transparent which is more what candy means to us old timers)one panel at a time will likely result in a very uneven appearance. The key to getting an even looking finish is consistent coverage over an entire "face", say the entire side, or the top surface. You get a little leway say, hood to roof to decklid because they're separated by glass, but fender, to door, to quarter panel, is far less forgiving.
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  9. #9
    jyardgirl's Avatar
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    i will remember that Bob. thanks. looks like yet another sanding and priming. then starting over with the base coat. thanks all for the advice. new at painting with a sprayer. where it did not mess up looks very good so i will keep learning.
    Last edited by jyardgirl; 06-19-2008 at 08:37 AM.
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  10. #10
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    Keep at it jyardgirl! I'm living proof that dummies can get through a Kandy Kolor paint job and my gun is a hvlp from HF!

    Are you using HOK paints for the Kandy? I've just finished with mine and am here to tell you that I'm now really tired of sanding! But that's what cures all ills, at least the dumb stuff I did painting the EC.

    I've also got a drop of sealer on the fender that I never saw, now its under 4 coats of clear for all to see

    Good luck and keep up the reports!
    ...at least I'm enjoying the ride!

  11. #11
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    Barb, My September issue of Rod and Custom just came today, and there is an article of setting up your paint gun. This is for the HVLP, which you are thinking of getting anyway. The old style guns are going out I believe. I haven't read it yet I just thought I would pass it along so maybe you can pick one up it looks like it has a lot of information on problems that can occur.

    Richard

  12. #12
    jyardgirl's Avatar
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    thanks richard and eric. i will pick up that issue.
    BARB

    LET THE FUN BEGIN

  13. #13
    IC2
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    Barb,
    Sorry to hear about the problems. I agree that the vent was probably plugged.

    Metallic paints are not for the faint of heart as they do take a lot of fine level prep work

    OK - you have a project ahead of you. I hope your compressor has enough CFM capacity for an HVLP gun

    First of all, you can sand the bad panels flat beginning with 180 or 220 on a block. While all of the "error" doesn't have to come off, it does need to be level or you will see ridges and bumps.

    Next - reprime. I suggest that you use a good non acrylic 2K. Mist the first coat or two very lightly, with a good hour between coats so it wont raise whatever you didn't sand off. Let it sit overnight then give it two more good coats, letting it flash between them. Then let them sit either overnight(best) or 3-4 hours minimum.

    Then, get out the 320-400 paper and sand until you don't see any orange peel(shiny spots) or roughness. When you reach that stage, then sand with 600-800 paper. Metallics are fussy and all kinds of sand marks show through. Many say that 400 is fine - maybe for them, doesn't work for me.

    All this sanding is wet - dry will plug paper and the sanding dust/sludge doesn't wash of so you are continually rubbing it over the fresh surface.

    Get a Harbor Freight "purple" #43430 gun or an Astro (even better) gun for about the same price. Be aware that the HF gun is an air hog - 30 to 50 pounds at the gun is common, that the recommended 23# will never lay on a good coat and these HF guns are not all the same in performance. Another word of warning about these HF guns - overspray. You WILL paint everything in the neighborhood with the increased pressure.

    Now - and before you paint your car - practice, practice, practice. Your supplier probably has some "mistakes" that he would sell cheaply or free.

    Oh yeah - this is the basic procedure for the whole car!!

    Too bad you aren't closer - I would lend you either my DeVillbiss or my Sharpe (sorry, but no on the Iwata )

    You DID wash the entire surface with a good wax and grease remover before paint didn't you?? Do you have 'fish eyes'? That's another additive to your paint - they are caused by silicone polishes(almost all of polishes have some), WD-40 and a whole host of other spray bomb lubricants.

    This is what works for me - others will have their 'tricks'. Go to it - it really can be fun
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  14. #14
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    I have used HF guns several times. Mostly with solid colors. Just make
    sure you get the HVLP one. Just because it's gravity feed does't make it
    HVLP. This is important
    Ron

  15. #15
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    Barb, sorry to hear of your painting problems, but you are far braver than I. I haven't picked up a paint gun in 30 years and wouldn't know where to start today for fear of screwing something up totally.

    Candy Apple paint is probably one of the most difficult paint jobs to do. Some painters won't even do them, they don't want to be bothered with the problems and issues. Got to applaud you for trying. As the others have told you, you don't need a expensive high price gun to do a nice paint job. Sure they might make it a little easier and better, but spending that extra $400 - $500 for a gun doesn't make good sense if your painting is going to be limited to just a couple of jobs. Now if you decide you wanted to do it as a paid hobby then by all means go get a Iwata or a Sata gun.
    -------------------------------------------------

    Don wrote:
    I have been buying the gravity feed guns from Harbor Freight and getting good results from them. They are normally about $39.95, but they went on sale for $ 9.95 so I bought 5 of them
    There are pro painters all over the world having neurological strokes after reading that post (and probably some right here).
    chevygirl396 likes this.
    Bob

    A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!

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