Thread: Need advice priming a fiberglass body

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No, it's a Speedway body, but probably prone to the same stress cracks. That is why I have laid up so much more glass into it, as it was semi-thin originally, as are most $ 500 bodies.

Thanks for all the advice guys, and let me ask something else. I'm confused by all the terms for primers and paints. What are the differences between epoxy primer, two part primer, high build primer, etc. The epoxy primer I used on my frame was a 1 to 1 mix. The high build I used was something like 4-2-1 mix. What exactly is 2 part, 1 to 1?

Also, I want a primer that has high build characteristics so I can block sand the heck out of it and get it pretty straight. Is this two part you guys suggest high build? The epoxy I used seemed to not have that property, and did not sand well.

So many products and terms.


Don

Two part generally refers to the basic paint plus a catalyst, the thinner doesn't count in that terminology. The numbers you used, such as 4-2-1 are mixing ratios for basic, catalyst, and thinner respectively.

Alternate terms to what's used in this discussion are primer, and primer-surfacer (The "high" build, sandable material).

In simplified terms (you can read the tech sheets for more thorough description), a primer is something to prepare the surface for the top coats. So, as an example, an epoxy primer is used on bare metal or glass to give a ground coat for adhesion (think of a foundation if using a house building reference), and they are used as sealers when painting over other material, e.g. body filler, previous paint, so on.

Primer-surfacers are what are usually called 2k (in todays terminology), or 'high build". Basically they also provide a "ground coat", or the foundation analogy again, but have a high solids content that builds a thicker film than the "straight" primers so that you can block sand for a smoother finish. They don't contain an epoxy per se, so some folks like to have the added "grip" of an epoxy primer under the high build primer.

One last thing I'd emphasize based on the way things have been said here just for clarity sake; ALWAYS clean a glass body with wax and grease remover BEFORE ever touching it with a piece of abrasive paper, much less any paint or filler.

Just to add another comment on why some would do the epoxy primer first, then the primer-surfacer, the epoxy primer will do a strong mechanical bond to a properly prepared surface (generally speaking, roughened with a lower numbered abrasive). Then the bond between the primer and the primer-surfacer is a chemical bond if applied within the specified (on the product tech sheet) time frame.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Just to add another comment on why some would do the epoxy primer first, then the primer-surfacer, the epoxy primer will do a strong mechanical bond to a properly prepared surface (generally speaking, roughened with a lower numbered abrasive). Then the bond between the primer and the primer-surfacer is a chemical bond if applied within the specified (on the product tech sheet) time frame.

60 to 100 grit works - these are all epoxied with SPI

Thanks Bob and Dave, that info helps a lot. I sort of felt I needed something to bite into the gelcoat, and yet I also wanted a high build primer to get rid of any low spots and allow me to DA and block sand until it is much smoother.

I may move up from the Nason line I have been using on the frame and running gear.

Don

BTW Bob, I bought some pantyhose last night, and have to admit they really do pull the slivvers out. I could see the white stuff on them after using them, and I had no itch last night. Thanks. I was on the fence between regular and control top.............................

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

BTW Bob, I bought some pantyhose last night, and have to admit they really do pull the slivvers out. I could see the white stuff on them after using them, and I had no itch last night. Thanks. I was on the fence between regular and control top.............................

Don

I can just imagine what's going through the minds of some who are reading that out of context!

Oh, BTW, the breathable crotch......................................................oh never mind!!!

Yeah, now that I reread it............


Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

So many products and terms.


Don

Don,
I use Southern Polyurethane (SPI) epoxy. It is fairly easy to apply, 1 to 1 ratio reasonably priced and can actually be used for the final prime coat with graduated sanding - 220, 320/400, 600 and has a 7 day recoat. Others like DuPont/Nason are good as well but do not have the build characteristics and cannot be sanded and only have a 24 hour recoat.

SPI epoxy is not available everywhere but can be mail ordered from Baker PBE: http://www.bakerpbe.com/. Go to 'the other forum' and you will be able to do a search on this stuff. If you have any questions - give me a PM as Brent might get a bit touchy, but you can also talk to the owner of SPI if you call there and he will give you straight stuff