Quote Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
Two part primers are well worth the money. They build a much more stable surface, that doesn't swell from solvents, then shink later to expose imperfections and body work under the primer.

Everyone worries about the primer as a moisture barrier, but I guide coat and wet sand the 2K primer on all of my jobs, including "from bare metal" work, and in the last 15 years I've been using it, I've NEVER had rusting underneath!!! I'm confident enough to guarantee every job for as long as you own it...........and I sleep just great at night! :-)

Two part primers = epoxy primer?

Like DP-90?

And perhaps skip the etching primer?

Epoxy primers seem to grip really well, does the etching primer grip well and then the epoxy primer over that is the way to go?
Or would DP-90 suffice?

2K primer is anoher name for what Brookville puts down?

I was going to use lacquer thinner to wash the primer off, but if it's a job I could skip it wouldn't hurt my feelings.

My Brookville 30-31 roadster body is four years old and has been stored in the garage in low humidity climates.

Fwiw, I used a Rootlieb hood on my 32.
It came with a very smooth coat of primer on it.
I don't know what kind, but shooting acrylic lacquer over it did not create a reaction.

I sanded it down, shot on PPG acrylic lacquer - four coats if I remember right - and had a small bit of orangepeel.
I block sanded the orangepeel down with used 400 grit wet/dry, compounded and polished it and it ended up looking pretty good.

I note that you can use DP-90 as a sealer (instructions are on the can).
I think that would work well for me.
I'd prefer to have a sealer closer to the final color than a white sealer under black paint like last time.
I think the rock chips wouldn't show up so bad that way.

Any comments on using DP-90 as a sealer?

And perhaps a comment on using body filler over the top of the epoxy primer.
That was recommended by the auto paint shop where I bought the paint et al and it seems to be working well.