Thread: Brookville primers

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Originally Posted by Irelands child

A quick update - I'm slowly getting into removing the primer, using 80 grit on a DA or by hand. Several places there is absolutely no adhesion - it flakes off. Six inches away from that flaky spot, the primer is stuck like it never wants to come off. As a matter of interest, there was rust under the primer in a couple of spots - and it was there BEFORE the car was primed. SO, anyone who thinks that they can sucessfully paint a Brookville body w/o taking their primer off, good luck.

StylingZ - make sure the bolt holes on the cowl cover line up correctly before you paint it, mine needed some help - also, if you are going to use a 4 piece hood, you have to drill the bracket bolt holes. A 3 piece hood - no extra holes that (I'm aware of).

I'm curious as to why you're sanding the primer off?

Wouldn't it be easier to wash the primer off with lacquer thinner, then sand?

A messy job, but fairly easy from what one painter friend tells me.

Originally Posted by C9x

I'm curious as to why you're sanding the primer off?

Wouldn't it be easier to wash the primer off with lacquer thinner, then sand?

A messy job, but fairly easy from what one painter friend tells me.

C9,
Several reasons -
I would probably still have to wear my supplied air hood as I am sensitized to many solvents and secondly, the crap that Brookville uses comes off extremely easily with my 17" llongboard and 80 grit paper. The primer varies a lot in thickness - my guess, .002 to .010. I did the flat area of one door to bare metal in about 5 minutes last night (doors are off and on a table). It leaves a nice finish for epoxy plus shows high and low areas - I have low areas, hinge side on both doors - the as-received hinges were bound up, flexing the door skins(bushings and new pins fixed that problem)

Thinner is fine for a single panel, but the mess plus the much added expense of even cheap lacquer thinner at ~$10/gallon, a bale of rags and the problem of disposing a hazardous waste and safety. I did try one trunk floor panel and it made a major mess with several rags and slop.

C9, I think you have an unassembled Brookville as well, based on earlier posts - check the primer out.

Originally Posted by C9x

I'm curious as to why you're sanding the primer off?

Wouldn't it be easier to wash the primer off with lacquer thinner, then sand?

A messy job, but fairly easy from what one painter friend tells me.

C9 - I responded to your post yesterday - and it didn't show up - then it appeared - sorry

Originally Posted by Irelands child

C9 - I responded to your post yesterday - and it didn't show up - then it appeared - sorry

Not a problem.

I cut out a 1 1/2" filler piece for the lower belt line at the extreme bottom of the body at the rear.
It was cut out for a parachute mount - the car was originally slated to be a dry lakes runner, but it's turning out so nice that I'm putting it on the street.

Anyway, I had some 100 grit wet/dry in my little Makita finish sander.
Took the primer - which was thin - right down to bare steel with no problem.

There are some areas that will need to be washed out with lacquer thinner, but sanding the open areas looks to be reasonably easy.

Areas that will require lacquer thinner are at the bottom of the trunk sill where it joins the belt line at the extreme bottom.
That and a clean brass brush ought to do it.

the pic above was in wanna-be lakes racer trim.

This pic shows how it looks today.

Doesn't look too much different, but there are a lot of small and time consuming projects finished on it.
Including a mid-90's ChryCo Soccer Mom two passenger van seat installed.

After the new set of fenders - actually OOS (Old Old Stock and used) get mounted and bobbed, the body comes off so I can build the frame mounted dual gas tanks and a few other things like plumbing for brakes and fuel.

Got my roll-around body dolly finished yesterday so I'm ready there.

Originally Posted by C9x

the pic above was in wanna-be lakes racer trim.

This pic shows how it looks today.

dual gas tanks and a few other things like plumbing for brakes and fuel.

Got my roll-around body dolly finished yesterday so I'm ready there.

C9 - looks good - especially on the 32 frame . As far as the dual frame gas tanks - where - inside the rails? Why not use the standard rear mount? Even if you bobbed the frame off, several outfits sell replacement end pieces - which I used to build a framework to put the tank in the back of my '31 chassis.

I've got my '31 on a dolly now and have it stripped of doors, trunk lid, cowl cover, dash and whatever else unbolts. The chassis is DONE !!!! I had the last piece, a drive shaft loop powder coated last week and installed it. This was an after thought as I pass my gas and fuel lines over it, next to the body and just figured a few hours and a few bucks was well worth the peace of mind for the added protection. I do have a short photo gallery in this forum but needs updating.

As far as stripping the doors - the left one, not too bad but will need a complete filler skim coat - jury's still out on the right, probably will need it as well.

I've attached a photo of my dash with a pile of sanding dust of the amount of primer that Brookville puts on a component. There are a total of 8 larger gauge and A/C outlet holes that actually reduce the surface area by quite a bit. And this is only the front side, the reverse will not be sanded to bare metal The holes range in size from 2 1/16 to 3 1/8. This is representative of all pieces that I've removed the primer.

Obviously, a thinner wash wont do it at $13/gallon yesterday for gun cleaning quality Nason.

If I had any idea on how long and how much effort this paint removal was going to be, I would have driven many miles for someone to media blast this car. I have since I started, talked to a couple of local guys that do some custom painting in the area - the closest reliable media blaster guys are well over 100 miles from me.

The flat panels have come clean of primer fairly easily, but Brookville used so much primer that the raised details were almost obliterated with up to a 32nd in. at the sharp stamped in areas. It literally has to be dug out. I've used thinner, Rolocs, and a rotary wire brush with varying degress of sucess. This crap has to be removed or it will create ugly spots in the final paint job.

It looks like I'm trading red acrylic primer for red rust - but at least the light skim of rust comes off very easily(so far) with my DA. Another day or so, ready for epoxy primer (but I said that a couple of weeks ago) and hope the good weather holds.