Thread: Easiest, cheapest paint...

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try dupli-color, it comes in quarts & gallons, the part houses aorund houston sell it, auto-zone, etc. I have used their primers (good Stuff). they also have a build-up primer. I used their primer on my 34 ford, and spayed over it with PPG (Copper Head Pearl) base coat-clear-coat. have not had any prolbems.

This may not quiet be what your thread is about, but, what I am doing is self-prepping, then priming it myself, then I will buy the paint. I'm then having it done by a paint shop as a foregner, or off the books. It's costing me like $200 for his time to spray it, but, we both win, he earns $200 before he opens up for the day, and I get the finish that I want on my car. That's what I would advise you to do, you may spend almost $200 in paint that needs to be rubbed back down, and hiring compressers and spray guns. But, I have seen a lot of good D.I.Y jobs, but mainly on matt finishes. I guess it's just whether there is somebody local to you that will help you out for a nice price. The paint cost me $150, that was for a high gloss black, that includes my primer and hardner aswell. Good luck with it though, post some pictures up when it's done, I'd love to see it.

I agree with Denny W. 100% ,I think if you want a number paint job. listen
to the guys on this form, if you want cheap talk to Earl Scheib,(I have had plenty of 200-300 dollar paint jobs from places like One Day, and Earl Schieb, and they looked fine to me )

HOTRODPAINT...
Thanks for the good advice....

Sounds like you better head over to home depot and get the rustoleum special!!! Get the professional series enamel,rusty metal primer,its high fill,then the paint is only 35 bucks a gallon!!! I only say this because you specified,cheap and easy.single stage paint.However I will be painting my truck in this stuff,#1 cheap#2 easy#3 I wont have to goto jail from killin all the door dingers and the fools who rub the rivetts on levis!!!This is my first project,kinda like a practice piece,after doing a frame off on the truck removing the bed and doors to paint it again is very minimal My next paint project will use por-15 hardnose paints.I was sent a sample of this product and I beat it ,cut it ,sanded it and bent it all to heck and it held up well,I also stuck the sample in the ground for about a year and the exsposed metal rotted away quickly,but what was under the hardnose paint ,was like new and there was virtually no creep under the paint!!!

I'm shooting mine with Acrylic Urethane or AU as it is commonly called. Black Factory black, OMN MTK9300G with medium hardener OMN MH168D and slow urethane reducer UPD UP2401 (for Austin TX climate).

Shot the bottom for learning and now I know enough to be dangerous. The paint on the bottom and firewall is holding up nicely. Color sanded and pollished out fine.

The Paint was $80 for a gallon, hardener was $38 and reducer was $10.50. From what I've seen around here that's pretty darn cheap!

Good Luck, Kitz

You could go with a basecoat clearcoat system for around 600 bucks . I am in the process of repainting my Nova right now . I have a little over 600 in to it . I went with the ppg line .Most of the time the base is the most expensive part . If you go from one color shade to the next , the price can vary quite a bit .You can also go from the standard line to the premium line . I like the premium line it seems to spray on smoother.

Shrug---I know what its like to want to paint a car and not have a lot of money. If you use an automotive paint from a main line bodyshop paint supplier, it will cost you a ton. For what you want to do, probably your best avenue is to use an enamel paint from a mass hardware distributor. Here in Canada we have Canadian Tire selling a brand of paint called Tremclad, as well as Motomaster, and Rustoleum. I'm sure that where you live there must be similar "automotive everything" stores. They will sell you the enamel paint, the correct reducer, and yes, even hardner if you want to use it. (Contrary to what Hotrod paint says, you can not sand and buff it to repair any "bad" areas---if they turn out really bad, you will have to wait 2 weeks and respray that panel). You will be able to buy everything you need to do the entire car for less than $200. Since this is your first attempt at a paint job, you would be throwing money away to buy $300 a gallon automotive paint. The paint I am advocating will be shiny, and will last about 3 years before it starts to "dull" from atmospheric oxidization. Then it will need a good coat of "cleaner wax" to revitalize the shine. These paints are premixed colours, and are available in a limited number of different colours. They are not "metallic" paints, and that is good because metallic paints require skills that you do not have. The car you have is very large, and will require a minimum of 4 quarts of paint before mixing.(this will give about 6 quarts after mixing)---Do wear a charcoal filter respirator---spray at about 45 PSI at the gun if you are using a syphon feed gun. (I have never used an HVLP, so can not offer advise there). Do not spray the car outside in direct sunlight (outside is okay, but rig a tarp to keep direct sunlight off the paint. Do not let the car get wet for at least 72 hours after spraying it (the paint will feel dry to touch, but any rain will waterspot it in that first 72 hours). When you buy the paint, buy at least one quart of "laquer thinner"---not for mixing with the paint, but to clean your spray gun with afterwards. Spray the complete car with one light coat. You won't see a lot of colour build, but that is the way it should be. Wait 20 minutes, then spray the car a second time. You will see the colour start to build fairly good. Wait 20 minutes then spray a third and final coat. Spray when the temperature is between 72 and 78 degrees Farenheit.---Don't expect miracles---this is your first job. The car will be shiny, it will look better than it does now, and you will not be able to get the grin off your face for the next 5 days. You will have the bragging rights, and if you have any degree of success, you will immediately start looking for other other things to paint.

"between 72-78 deg" Good advice Brianrupnow.

I find that is the "paint friendliest" temperature range. If I spray when its cooler than that I have orange peel problems. If I spray when its warmer than that, I have gloss problems because the paint drys before it has a chance to "flow out" smooth. I know that you can buy different temperature ranges of reducer, but I always used "medium dry" when I used to paint a lot.

Look at Southern Polyurethanes (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm)
A gallon of their white is less than $97. Give them a call, and you will be told how to purchase this paint. This stuff is great tho you do need to do at least a little bit of prep work.

Originally Posted by Irelands child

Look at Southern Polyurethanes (http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm)
A gallon of their white is less than $97. Give them a call, and you will be told how to purchase this paint. This stuff is great tho you do need to do at least a little bit of prep work.

BarryK is a GREAT person to deal with

http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html
get great acrylic enamel pait here

much cheaper then $95,00, per gallon,
more like $35 to $46 ahipping is maybe $15 u.p.s THEY HAVE MANY NICE COLORS!!!
and it uis gtreat quality paint,,my friends alwasy ask me,,is that base coat clear coat,,,,,(hehe)
just trying to help you all save maney,im not asociated with this company in any way,, as a Employee,,,,,,,,,,
Donny Wagers