alright spraytech, ive been stripping and priming parts for about 2 weeks now...... and ive definately got a handle on that walcom slim now. i started out small with the hood cowl and moved to both fenders and finally the hood was shot today. when i first started on the cowl i didnt know what to expect as far as speed of travel and distance form panel and boy let me tell you, you would have laughed your ass off watching me. ive seen shows where you see the guys painting (professional) and they are friggin moving fast( what you guys call "hosing it on"), well that is how i started out and right away i knew something was up..... hardly any paint on the cowl on the first pass. time to slow down and that worked. there was a little texture to the dplf which was corrected by upping the air pressure at the gun and i would say on the second fender the dp was flowing nice. i just hope im putting it on thick enough for the correct mils. it looks thick but i dont have any runs so i guess that is where its supposed to be. i did have one run (more like a sag)on the inside of one of my fenders when i sprayed the k36, so i closed up the nozzle (i forget what its called) for the amount of product going thru the cap so it sprays lighter and that solved that problem. the only thing i dont like is doing body work over the dplf, because when it comes time to sand down the bondo or glaze that stuff just clogs up the sandpaper so ive been doing the body work before i shoot the dplf. i know that ppg says to put bondo over the dp, but i think its a wasted step, material and time. do you see a problem doing it the way im doing it? by the way, the areas that need some bondo are roughed up with 36 grit.