Thread: door dent problem

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Hey gang,
The sanding and filling is going great on our project '57 bug
but I found a problem with the drivers door.
There is a high spot when I try to hammer and dolly it down the panel pops in and out quite easy.

I don't want to tap it in and fill it with mud and then have it pop out sometime down the road. It isn't very large but all the rest "feels" pretty good
any suggestions
thanks
hank

What you have is called an oil can effect. The best way to fix this problem is to shrink the metal. You need a torch and water. Heat small areas around the outermost part of the oil can and when they become a dull red, cool with water. This will shrink the metal until it doesn't pop any more. When finished, fill and smooth like you would with any other panel.

could we use a propane torch or do we need a oxy acetylene

thanks for the fast reply

you can cold shrink it to . you can turn you door to junk by heating it up. if you do not know what you are doing ?i do not think you should do it with heat . if you do find a junk door and try your skills at it before you work on your good door. to cold shrink or kink it you need a good body hammer with a pick on it you can use a dolly with some rubber on it like a old sanding block use the dolly as a back up inside the door and then use the pick hammer to kink the steel try to go around the hi spot with very light hit DOT NOT BEAT ON IT JUST PEPPER IT work on it till the oil can is not there this will pull up the steel

I don't think propane will get it hot enough. Ive only used oxy. as far as the "cold shrink" yes it will work, but you will have only put lows in the panel that will need to be filled. "cave it and pave it" was the saying at the last shop I worked at briefly. heat can distort, but if you use care and proper technique it will be fine.

Originally posted by kustom_oz
I don't think propane will get it hot enough. Ive only used oxy. as far as the "cold shrink" yes it will work, but you will have only put lows in the panel that will need to be filled. "cave it and pave it" was the saying at the last shop I worked at briefly. heat can distort, but if you use care and proper technique it will be fine.

yes and i have fix body panel where they were not heat shrink right .cave and pave may be better than junking a door . if you have never heat shrink something ??? try it first on a old panel. how can you can tell someone how to do this rigth over a post??? not every body panel will not act the same when you add heat to it and i have a shrinking hammer that will shrink with out heat if this socalled cave and pave job turns you off cut the door skin off and re skin it. then it will have no filler in it . if you heat shrink it and you do not get it rigth ? oh you will be paveing big time

We didn't try the heat shrink and went with the cold shrink method using the pick hammer and rubber sanding block dolly

The door panel doesn't pop in and out like before

we caved it in and paved it with a very thin skim of mud and a used a long air sander and got it looking pretty nice.

I used POR 15 on both sides of the new running boards
the inner fenders and front suspension. Still have 1/3Qt. for touch up

great stuff
I sure like the look of that POR 15

thanks for the help
hank