Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Putting theshine to it
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    akrateffil's Avatar
    akrateffil is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Effingham
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Plymouth Savoy, 1948 Plymouth 2 doo
    Posts
    180

    Putting the shine to it

     



    Winter is setting in and during the garage season I am wanting to bring the shine out in the paint. When I bought the car this past summer, I was told it has about 10 coats of clear on it (we'll see). The car looks like it had been wet sanded for there is no orange peeling. The paint appears very flat. My question - How can I get this car to shine like it is 10inches deep? Thanks, Andy
    Last edited by akrateffil; 11-26-2005 at 04:02 AM.

  2. #2
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    It sounds like you probably don't have any equipment. I'd talk with the local auto stores about buying a low speed polisher, and see what kind of polish they recommend to use with it. By the time you go over the car thoroughly with it, it should look more like what you have in mind.

  3. #3
    akrateffil's Avatar
    akrateffil is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Effingham
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Plymouth Savoy, 1948 Plymouth 2 doo
    Posts
    180

    I have a 7" dual speed grinder / buffer that has speeds of 1800 and 700 rpm, as well as, a typical DA style buffer (the kind you would by from sears for polishing a car). My fear is I will harm the paint that is only in need of a little TLC.

  4. #4
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    Go to the body shop supply, and buy a foam pad setup. Use this on low speed, stay off of the edges, and you probably can't hurt the paint, unless it's too thin.

    When I switched away from the wool pads, I almost stopped having any problems at all, and the finish comes up quicker. Also, the low speed takes a little longer, but helps keep you out of trouble.

  5. #5
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chrysler,49 Ford,66 F100,68 Lincoln
    Posts
    2,835

    Look for the episode of TRUCKS where Stacey goes over how to buff and polish your old scratched paint. VERY good small tips on it and should help you get on your feet. Don't use a grinder. I noticed you said it's a grinder and buffer..... It's either a grinder or a polisher/buffer not both. And like HOTRODPAINT said, STAY AWAY FROM EDGES!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  6. #6
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    tucson
    Posts
    3,043

    I think they have marketed some tools as "dual purpose" grinder buffers. Whatever you use, try to run it on a low speed, if possible, until you get some experience with it.

    I actually use what is called a vertical sander for my buffing. It is an infinitely variable speed air tool. I got use to using one that one of my employees had, and I've used it ever since. :-)

  7. #7
    vt1992s10's Avatar
    vt1992s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Rutland
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1992 Chevy S-10 V-8
    Posts
    3

    from the RPMs that you describe it sounds like a regular buffer. I run between 1200-1400 rpm using a foam pad from 3M, if they are very light surface scratches us a gloss formula, and for the deeper go to 3M diamond cut to medium cut then to heavy cut for the really really deep scratches. like everyone said previously stay away or go really light on edges because that is where paint/ clear coat is going to be the thinnest. remember after buffing you need to apply a coat of wax.

    from my own experiance(I work at a honda dealership in recon) go very light on plastic bumper covers because they heat up a lot quicker therefor burn or fold the paint over.

    personally I find that the 3m products seem to give the best results compared to the other products that I have tried
    Last edited by vt1992s10; 11-29-2005 at 02:12 PM.
    1992 S-10 V-8 350 hedman longtubes, edlebrock intake, holley 750, holley red pump, lowered 2/3, etc

  8. #8
    fordsfairlane's Avatar
    fordsfairlane is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    hopkinsville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 chevy belair
    Posts
    97

    if you'r afraid to use a buffer on the car . you could always do it by hand. its a safe way and when your done you'r arms will feel like jelly.

    I never use a buffer, I prefer hand buffing.
    and 3m's machine glaze top off with a good wax.

    my arms dont like it but it looks way better, no swirl marks.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink