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Thread: Things I'm learning about yellow paint---Arggh
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    kcress's Avatar
    kcress is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ahhhh Brian... I feel for you man... Like the toast always lands buttered side down.

  2. #32
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    Originally posted by kcress
    Ahhhh Brian... I feel for you man... Like the toast always lands buttered side down.
    But I found the secret to anti gravity............

    You put that buttered side bread, butter side UP on the back of a cat , as we all know cats land feet first, and bread always lands butter side down .

  3. #33
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    Brian,

    There's nothing mysterious about gelcoat. All fiberglass has it, otherwise the mat would show through. Most reputable (make your own judgement there) fiberglass body manufacturers use a gelcoat that's pretty much like a heavy primer. It's very sandable, and very paintable. However, you do have to remember to completely wipe down the body with a surface prep to make sure that all of the mold release agent is removed. You need to do that BEFORE you do any sanding, otherwise the release agent will be ground into the surface . . . fisheye city . . .

    Most of the non-custom shops don't like to do anything that's outside their normal process. Too much risk.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #34
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    Henry Rifle ---That was Don Shillady asking about gel coat. I know about it----Paid my dues on the fiberglass 27 roadster that I built 10 years ago.----Don, there is no magic to gel coat----Like Henry Rifle said, wipe it down before you start sanding it with a good clean-up solvent to remove any mold release agent, block sand with a 10" board and #120 grit untill all the shine is gone, and then treat it pretty well like anything else that you would prep for paint.
    Old guy hot rodder

  5. #35
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    Henry and Brian, thanks I learned from your words, especially Henry pointing out that sanding first will push the mold release into the scratches and potential for fisheye effect. I may end up doing my own prep and looking for a moonlight sprayer so this helps.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  6. #36
    Darin is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I went today and was going to have three different yellows mixed ( one ounce each )
    to see which one I wanted . Two were VW yellows 1972 and 1975 I believe . Neither vw yellow was available iin bc/cc by ppg .
    the other was 1971 chrysler lemon twist.
    It was the only one that was available in ppg dbu . It is the first yellow in 6 tries that I liked . Anyway the sales man
    suggested I prime with white . I thought
    of using a tinted sealer and he said he believed white would be good enough. Anyway funny how all this yellow is coming up. One reason Idecided to do my 40 in yellow is there are not a bunch of them around and I like yellow anyway . I have gotten swatches of my interior from ezboy rod interiors . It will be yellow and white and the yellow will match the paint real well. Anybody here ever dealt with ezboy rod interiors ?

  7. #37
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    darin,
    take the VW yellow you had mixed , and spray a spray out card with , then take that card back to your jobber and have them do a Profit read on the spray out card and it will make a Base coat formula.

    Did the jobber call PPG's color library and see if they have a cross reference Base formula for the VW Paint Code?



    SprayTech

  8. #38
    Darin is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks , ActuallyI only had the chrysler mixed because they could not mix the vw yellow in bc/cc . I thought about having them mix the vw yellow in a ss and doing what you said ifI didn't like the chrysler
    ( lemon Twist) .but I think this color will work . I need spray a piece ( scrap or somrthing ) and take it out in the sunlight
    and see what it looks like because as you know under flouresent lights it is hard to determine the actual color . Thanks again
    Darin

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