Thread: I'm a new user from San Francisco looking for some advicee

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Thanks for all the feedback everyone! I know I have some big plans for my car and that it will take a substantial amount of money. Like I said I want to take my time to make sure that everything is done properly. The first things that I want to do are change the mechanical brakes to hydrolic and change the the electrical system from 6volt to 12volt. Those are two goals that are in my price range that I want to accomplish as soon as possible. Does anyone know how I can change the electrical and brake systems??? Is it expensive??? Ass far as everything else that I want to do to the car it will all come about in due time, I'm in no rush. I guess to be more clear My main focus right now is to get the car in driving condition. That car looks great as it is, I just want it to be safe when I drive it. Also...I posted some pictures on the members onlty gallery of my car, but I don't know how to add them to my profile. Any pointers on how to post those pictuers to my profile??? I want to update my photos for all of you to see the progress on the car and to get any feedbback you guys might have.

Now you're talkin'. What you have to realize is how valuable this particular car is, not only monetarily, but history-wise. You have a really important car here. It deserves the very best. The story of it's being found by your Dad and then stored for so long is terrific.

Later Ford (circa '40-48) brakes will retrofit with a kit from Speedway. Parts are very available for '35's and most are bolt ins. I just saw a vendor at Daytona selling alternators disquised as old time generators. Change out the bulbs and use resistors on the rest to drop the voltage to 6 volts where needed, and you will be home free.

I hope someone helps you get the pictures posted. I can't wait to see this car.

Don

One thing to keep in mind is that the "rat rod", or traditional rod, or nostalgia rod craze (whichever term you like) that's going on right now has run up the price of the older hydraulic drum brake set-ups for these. And the competition is fairly heavy. Still, if you're a good hustler you might find something out there low buck...........just gonna have to work hard at it. Some look at the prices of drum and say, just go disc in front, it's near the same money. Your call.

The '39 to '48 brakes Don mentioned work better than your mechanicals, but are tough for most people to adjust where they work real well. It's an experience thing. Also they are not self energizing so require heavy pedal pressure for rapid (relatively) stops. Sets sell on ebay and places like Fordbarn and Craigslist for several hundred dollars, and then will often need some rebuilding. If you buy the drums blind they may be worn beyond safe use, and new replacements run about $150-200 each.

There is a better alternative that will give you self energizing drum brakes, but it costs. The brake of choice (drums f&r) is what's called the Lincoln brakes. If you do a Google search for "Reproduction Lincoln Brakes" you'll see several vendors. Here's just one example; http://www.est1946.com/index.asp?Pag...ROD&ProdID=822 If you use the drop down at mid page you'll see the rear set too. With shipping you're close to a grand, but it's new hardware.

You can build something like these if you can locate some good early '50's (up to '56) F2/F250 Ford truck backing plates. I can give you the part numbers for the shoes and cylinders if you choose to go this way and find some. Again, a lot of guys know about this and the demand is competitive. Bare backing plates can easily go over $100 a pair, and will likely need some repair. Add the cost of shoes and cylinders and $300 is easy to hit, per axle. Some guys are selling this type of set-up on ebay and Ford barn, and depending on the bidding/asking they go for $3-400. If you go this route and use stock early Ford drums you need 1 3/4" wide shoes, not the 2" ones the Buick drum guys use on the same backing plates.

Another alternative is the '53-56 Ford F100 front brakes (you still have to use any of the above for the rears). You'll need the backing plates, loaded, plus the hubs and drums. These are a 11" diameter drum rather than the aboves which are all 12". These have the advantage of maintaining the 5 1/2" bolt circle for your exising wheels.

Get a pedal assembly from a '39 which will bolt right in to help mount the master cylinder, and the clutch linkage lines right up. Or you can get a '40 pedal assy which will take a little mod for the clutch linkage. To this you can bolt a stock, single chamber m/c, repops are readily available, or better yet, a '67-8 Mustang dual chamber m/c for drum brakes (need an adapter for mounting bolt differences, readily available from most hot rod vendors). The plumbing is standard tubing and hoses.

As for the electrical, Don's info will work as long as your wiring is good, and not deteriorated. 6v wire is larger gauge than 12. Here's a quick article; http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/articles.htm

The Runtz resistor is good at each gauge where appropriate, those can be bought from Patrick's, or Speedway; http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/Product.htm

If you are in need of a good fabricator I would suggest you get in contact with "Chilcote Fabrication" in Morgan Hill (south bay area close to Gilroy), Tom the owner is an avid hot rodder and a amazing welder. No job is to small for this guy, you may need to get in line however his shop is in demand. He has helped me with both a new firewall and the relocation of my master cylinder assembly from under the dash to under the floor.

jc